First time in the Alps

28 Mar 2006

CRACKING THE CODE – FIRST TIME IN THE ALPS

There has to be a first time for everyone.

If you’re ‘into mountains’ for walking or climbing, sooner or later the Alps will call. Back in Victorian days that’s where many pioneers actually began their careers; some never visited Snowdonia, the Lakes or Scotland at all - they simply went travelling, saw the Alps, and that was it. They were hooked in a single glance.

Nowadays most of us begin with an apprenticeship among our own mountains, and then start dreaming of bigger game. That’s when the questions start. You’ve seen the pictures, read numerous articles and pored over books. Images haunt your dreams, but with so many peaks, so many districts, you don’t know where to begin.

Much will depend on what you hope to achieve, of course. If it’s climbing you’re after, check the International School of Mountaineering at Leysin in Switzerland, for they have mountaineering courses for all abilities that will get you started on your alpine career, and teach you how to deal with both glacier and big rock wall (www.alpin-ism.com) – for a brochure call Tel 01766 890441. Alternatively, contact the British Mountain Guides and see what they can offer (Tel 01690 720386 www.bmg.org.uk).

But for mountain walking, avoiding rock faces and crevassed glaciers, you won’t need professional instruction, for with common sense and the ability to read map and guidebook, tens of thousands of kilometres of marked footpaths promise a lifetime’s activity.

Where to go? Almost anywhere in the alpine chain will reward a visit, but for a first time the Austrian Alps take a lot of beating. Heights are modest, but the mountains look big and the ambience is something you’ll never forget. Try the Stubai Alps southeast of Innsbruck, with a base at Neustift; or Mayrhofen in the neighbouring Zillertal Alps. Or go to Switzerland and be seduced by scenic trails in the Engadine, or the Bernese Alps above Grindelwald or Mürren. Perhaps you fancy the Dolomites of northern Italy? If so, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better centre than Selva in Val Gardena.

Instead of having day walks from a single base, maybe the idea of a hut-to-hut tour appeals. An extensive network of huts exists right across the alpine chain, and linking several together to create a multi-day tour makes a truly rewarding holiday. The 11-12 day Tour of the Vanoise south of Mont Blanc in France would make a fine start. The Tour of Mont Blanc itself is another obvious choice, but the brand new Tour of the Jungfrau Region in Switzerland is almost guaranteed to get you hooked on this style of multi-day mountain trekking.

Don’t be put off by the word ‘hut’, however, as this is a bit of a misnomer. Most are rather like youth hostels, with dormitory accommodation and a resident guardian in summer who serves meals and refreshments to the guests. Some huts are more like mountain inns; amazing places far from the nearest road or village, but offering good facilities in a truly magical location. Should you plan to use a number of these during a holiday, consider joining the UK branch of the Austrian Alpine Club (www.aacuk.org.uk) for reduced overnight fees in all alpine club huts – AAC membership also gives mountain rescue insurance cover.

10 Tips for a First Trip

To get the most out of your first alpine holiday, get fit before leaving home.
Don’t be too ambitious, but steadily increase height-gain and distance as you grow accustomed to the alpine scale of things.
Check the weather forecast. As all districts are prone to rapidly changing conditions, stay alert for warning signs and take appropriate clothing.
On a full day’s walk carry sufficient food (plus emergency rations) and at least a litre of water to avoid dehydration.
Leave a note of your planned route and expected time of return with a responsible person.
Be vigilant when crossing rocks, snow patches and mountain streams.
Do not stray onto glaciers, and keep clear of icefalls and hanging glaciers.
Carry a map, compass and first aid kit – and know how to use them.
Know the International Distress Signal – six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch afer dark) followed by a minute's silence; then repeat. Keep a whistle and torch with you.
Be insured against accidents. Mountain rescue in the Alps is highly efficient, but very costly.