Our latest addition to the Great Mountain Days series, exploring the Pennines, is aptly timed in more ways than one.

In Route 1 of this guidebook author Terry Marsh takes you to the summit of Thack Moor, a walk along pathways seldom trodden and below massive skies. Thack Moor is especially noteworthy however, as it has recently been announced as Britain’s newest mountain. The discovery was made by skilled amateur surveyors John Barnard, Graham Jackson and Myrddyn Phillips, who collected six hours of summit data over two trips to confirm the height. For a short video of the team shot during their survey, check out outdoor website Grough’s article.

Thack Moor from below Hartside summit – photo by Terry Marsh

Their data has been verified by experts at Ordnance Survey,  who have agreed to update the official height to 610 metres – just 2cm above the 2,000 feet that classifies a hill as a mountain.

So, the addition brings the total number of English mountains to 254, and also adds to the Nuttall list – satisfying the criteria of 2,000ft high with a 15m drop. John and Anne Nuttall are also Cicerone authors of the two-volume set The Mountains of England and Wales – indeed, Thack Moor now warrants inclusion as it rises above 2,000ft by just the width of their guidebook!

The Cape Wrath Trail is widely regarded as Britain’s toughest long distance route, and with good reason; you’ll find no arrows on fence posts to help your navigation along a route that doesn’t trouble itself by following paths. Here’s how Cicerone’s CWT guidebook author Iain Harper puts it…

It’s not really a trail at all, more a jigsaw of routes between Fort William and the most north-westerly point in the UK, to be assembled according to your own preference. Perhaps because of this unique flexibility and lack of formal status, it has become highly regarded by many backpackers. It’s a tough test for anyone and you’ll brave remote country, rugged terrain, rain, wind, midges, bog and tricky river crossings. Most people take between two and three weeks to complete the full journey, and whatever time of year you attempt the trail it will test he limits of your physical and mental endurance. But dark boggy moments are quickly forgotten amid a solitude and beauty rarely found in modern life.

River Dessarry (Stage 3)

This book draws together updates and attempts to improve on a variety of routes that have previously been suggested. It also offers a wide range of variations, recognising that there can be no definitive path suitable for all. Follow as much or as little of the route as you like. Take detours, plan alternatives, make the journey your own. It’s one that will live with you for the rest of your life.

For more of Iain’s insights, why not head on over to his website dedicated to the Cape Wrath Trail.

A few words from prolific Cicerone author Paddy Dillon on meeting Iceland expert Dick Phillips, who offered tours in Iceland for over 50 years and owned the Fljótsdalur Youth Hostel, until his recent retirement. He is also possibly the toughest critic on Iceland guidebooks…

Paddy: “Before I went to Iceland last summer, I got in touch with him [Phillips] so that I could crouch at his feet and absorb some wisdom. He lives at Nenthead, a high-level village in Cumbria, and in fact his house is a steep bit of a climb above the village even then! Anyhow, I phoned him in January and asked if I could pop round, and he said… “Not really… the snow is 6ft deep and the road is blocked!” So, a month later I phoned again and he said… “Yes… the snow is only 2ft deep and the road has been cleared!”

When I first got in touch with him, before going to Iceland, he sent me a list of scathing reviews he’d compiled of various books about Iceland. So… I was expecting some brutal comments from him once he’d seen the book!”

It seems that Paddy needn’t have worried, here’s an extract from Dick Phillip’s review of Walking and Trekking in Iceland:

“Some guides to Iceland are written by experts on writing guides, while others – the ones I usually prefer – are by experts on Iceland, who would not dream of writing a a guide to anywhere else. Both tend to be full of “useful” information about wonderful guest-houses, or other facilities, whose opening and shutting down does not coincide with book publication dates. Dillon’s guide hardly concerns itself with such things. It is for the serious place-to-place mountain walker, not necessarily seeking out summits; unlike many guides, you know that the writer, in a prodigious programme of walking over two years, has himself trodden every step of the ways he describes, solo.

In future years, some of the waymarking signs that Dillon found will disappear, and doubtless other be added. No matter; the basic elements of the walks will still be there, and the book as useful in 50 years’ time as it is today. In its field, this book is more than outstanding – it is unique.”

There is plenty of myth and legend surrounding the River Rhine, so here are a couple of famous tales.

The Legend of Loreley

Loreley was a fair maiden who, having been spurned by her fisherman lover, swore vengeance upon all riverfarers. She sat atop the cliff that rose above a bend in the river, and sung whenever a boat passed. Her voice was so enchanting that the sailors lost their concentration, and were lured by her to the treacherous rocks where they perished. To this day, a bronze statue of Loreley stands on the clifftop, and sailors take special care when navigating the difficult currents of this section.

The Mäuseturm

The Legend of the Mäuseturm

This tale speaks of the greedy Bishop of Mainz, who taxed the peasants of his parish in the form of grain, his demands becoming steeper every year. When they complained, the Bishop invited them to a meeting to discuss the problem, then double-crossed them and set fire to the barn they had congregated in. The mice in the barn escaped however, and pursued the Bishop to his tower on the riverbank, where they avenged the parishioners by gnawing him to death.

The truth behind the tower is more mundane: the tower was a toll house, collecting revenue from passing boats.

The sites of these legends are found in stages 16 and 17 of The Rhine Cycle Route, by Mike Wells.

Terry Sleaford – author of the Cicerone guidebook Scrambles in the Dark Peak has discovered another new scrambling route. Instead of waiting for a new edition to share it with you, here’s the details of the new route.

Chrome Hill SW Ridge

Start/Finish    Earl Sterndale (near church SK 091 671)
Height gain    75m
Grade and rating    3 (summer), 2/3 (winter)

This ridge offers an alternative way to reach the summit of Chrome Hill, but is rather more taxing than the normal approach (see Route 41). Steep grass, followed by two pitches of slabby angled limestone and a final narrow ridge, lead to the top just to the left of the summit.  Combined with an ascent of the pinnacle at the foot of Parkhouse Hill on the return leg, it offers an absorbing excursion, while in winter, under a covering of snow, a very interesting ‘mini-mountain’ experience with great photo opportunities can be enjoyed. The use of a rope and protection is recommended.

Approach
The most convenient parking is in Earl Sterndale, usually near the church. From there, pick up the path at the rear of the ‘Quiet Woman’ pub (SK 090 670) to descend westwards through fields to join the B5053 road (SK 084 668).

Cross the road and take the footpath leading westwards below the south side of Parkhouse Hill to meet another minor road (SK 078 668) that runs north into Doweldale. Head north on this road for about 200m to find the path on the left (SK 077 671), just before a cattle grid, that leads up the minor ridge to Chrome Hill.

Follow the path uphill and cross a stile into access land. Now turn left (west) and contour above the fence/wall around the base of Chrome Hill on steep ground using vague sheep tracks. Eventually, several ridge lines appear on the hillside above. The obvious stepped ridge, with a horizontal break near the bottom and showing the most continuous rock, is the objective (SK 070 673, and see photo). A steep approach over scree and then grass leads to the base of the first well-cracked slabby rock section.

Alternatively, use the approach given for Route 41 to the north-western end of Chrome Hill. Ignore the usual path to the main ridge and instead contour south-eastwards (to the right) above the wall, staying in access land, to arrive at the steep scree/grass approach described above.

Route
Once the base of the first slabby rock is reached, a good crack provides a belay on small grass footholds. Climb more or less directly to the first steepening, which can be avoided to the right on grass. Head back left as soon as possible to the ridge proper to arrive below another slabby section where a belay can be taken. Go up this slab and over a small overlap to a steep nose with good cracks for belays. Skirt this to the right on steep grass then move back left as soon as possible to rejoin the ridge, which is quite narrow here. Cross this to another steepening and move up grassy rock to belays. More grass leads to the main ridge, just to the left of the summit.

Links/extensions
Descend the south-east ridge of Chrome Hill, heading for the pinnacle below Parkhouse Hill’s west ridge. This can most easily be climbed from the ‘col’ behind the pinnacle itself, reached by the normal ridge path to the right. There are belays just below the top. Care will be needed when descending back to the col and the use of a rope is recommended. Return to the start point by going over Parkhouse Hill’s summit to rejoin the outward path.

The GR5 attracts all types of walkers, and providing they pitch in at a pace that suits them, they manage it fine. Author of our GR5 guide Paddy Dillon describes some of the typical characters you might meet along the route…

The Flying Dutchman (or Belgian) will scoff at your short walk over the Alps, and tell you that you are doing it all wrong, as you should have started in Holland.

The Super-Fit Walker will be trekking solo across the Alps in three weeks or less, and won’t have a bead of sweat on them, nor will they be out of breath.

The Wild Camper objects to spending money, and camps in areas where it’s forbidden, thinking that anyone spending a night indoors is a softy.

The Retired Couple will be taking twice as long as everyone else, having promised themselves this trip for decades, and intend enjoying every minute.

The ‘Last of the Summer Wine’ English party are also retired, but generally have previous Alpine experience, even if they haven’t mastered French yet.

The Family Group, with mum, dad, the children and maybe the odd aunt or uncle, will be tackling the GR5 over a period of years. The children are beginning to wonder if a beach holiday would be better, but mum and dad say they can have that when they get to the Mediterranean.

So, you’ll be in good company on this trek, and with our fully updated new edition of The GR5 Trail you’ll have a reliable guide too.

The publication of our latest National Trail guide, The St Oswald’s Way and St Cuthbert’s Way is just around the corner. But who exactly were these two saints with their Northumbrian route namesakes?

St Oswald was born around 605AD, to King Aethelfrith of Bernicia and Queen Acha of Deira. The young Oswald fled to Scotland after his father was killed in 616, where he was influenced by monks on the island of Iona, and converted to Christianity. Oswald later returned to Bernicia to confront his usurper at Heavenfield in approximately 634. On the eve of the battle, Oswald erected a wooden cross and encouraged his small army to pray for victory. Despite being greatly outnumbered, Oswald’s forces won the battle, leading him to unite Bernicia and Deira to become one of the most powerful kingdoms in medieval Britain. This power also enabled Oswald to become instrumental in the spread of Christianity in northern England.

Warkworth Castle on the St Oswald's Way

St Cuthbert has a very different story, born in 634AD and becoming a minister. He went on to establish a monastery at Ripon, North Yorkshire, and later become Prior of Melrose Abbey in 664. In 676 he became a hermit, residing on the Farne Islands for nearly 10 yeas before becoming Bishop of Lindisfarne; a position he kept until his death.  A more unusual legacy is his act of placing eider ducks (resident in the Farne Islands) under protection, leading them to become known as ‘cuddy ducks’ in Northumberland to this day.

This update supplements the comments about safety equipment in both volumes of our guidebooks, Via Ferratas in the Italian Dolomites vol.1 and vol. 2. We discuss the various types of lanyards (or ‘cowtails’) on the market, and refer to the EN Standard and the, rather more demanding, UIAA standard. It goes without saying that you should only buy gear which complies with at least the EN standard. Also, whatever the cost of via ferrata equipment it really is false economy to buy 2nd hand gear, so we strongly advise against it.

In the 2012 edition of our books, we draw attention to a recent product recall by one of the leading manufacturers, Petzl, who experienced problems with their Scorpio model. We understand that Petzl have since resumed production of the Scorpio, but Petzl’s UK distributor stresses that if you own an original Scorpio via ferrata lanyard that has not been inspected, you should immediately stop using it, and contact the Petzl distributor in your country to have it inspected. This is advice we would wholeheartedly endorse!

However, during August 2012, another manufacturer (Edelrid) was forced to issue a product recall, following a fatality apparently resulting from equipment failure. On this occasion, the part of the kit which failed was the elastic lanyards to which the karabiners are attached. Subsequent testing (by the German Alpine Club, in association with the manufacturers) of all self belay systems using such a material have revealed that, with some types of assembly, there can be an internal chafing of the strands making up the lanyard which can result in failure. As a result, no less than eight manufacturers have issued product recalls. If you own a via ferrata set with elastic lanyards, you should check the following website (which is part of the ‘Britannia’ section of the Austrian Alpine Club’s site) to see if your equipment is on the list:

klettersteigsets_via-ferrata_recalls_english-version.pdf

In the case of the Edelrid failure, the lanyards were hired, and so presumably subject to a greater degree of wear and tear than normal. This underlines the importance of making a number of checks when relying on gear other than your own. You should ask about its age and history; check for obvious signs of wear and tear; and make sure it carries the label indicating compliance with the standards above.

And remember, nothing lasts forever, and this goes for your VF kit too. Manufacturers advise on the maximum life (as well as care, maintenance and storage) of the kit they produce. So look after your kit and retire it when it reaches the recommended age – and certainly if it has ever had to hold a fall.

Given the recent publication of our guidebook to the Northern Caminos, here’s a little insight into what makes a trekker into a pilgrim…

Santiago de Compostela

- The credenciál, or pilgrim passport for you non-Spanish-speakers, is a document you can get that identifies you as a pilgrim, and can be stamped every day along your journey.

- Albergues are dedicated pilgrim hostels, offering overnight accommodation exclusively for pilgrims. They are also a source of stamps for your credenciál.

- The Compostela, awarded by the Archbishopric in Santiago, acknowledges your completion of the pilgrimage – but only if you have your credenciál to prove your journey!

So as you can see, it’s much more than just the route that makes a journey into a pilgrimage.