Day Seven. Into the Rhatikon Mountains.

Rocky spires on the Swiss - Austrian border

The Rhatikon are a small range of limestone mountains which have been rammed upwards and hugely contorted by the immense pressures of alpine folding. The result is a range of towers and peaks, huge rock faces and steeply plummeting ’paths’ from cols to the valleys below. These final few days of our holiday was to be a real treat.

St Antonien, in its beautiful Swiss valley

Leaving the little village of St Antonien in it’s green ‘chocolate box’ Swiss valley felt hard. It was a beautiful day, hot, but clear, with views of Alps upon Alps stretching into the distance as we climbed steadily upwards once again. Treats were in store… our first glimpses of the great towering limestone face of the Sulzfluh, and then, a little further on, the unexpected treat of a rowing boat on a small lake! There’s an honesty box by the jetty, and for 4 SF you can take the boat out for as long as you wish.

Walking towards the Carschina hut, with the Sulzfluh in the background.

After Jonathan had brushed up his rowing skills, we all moved on, finally arriving at the splendid Carschina hut in time for some lunch. Re-fuelled with Rosti and in John’s case as much as he could manage of a huge Spaghetti Bolognese, we clambered up to the Drusator pass (2342m), and over once again into Austria. The descent was less pleasant, as the path seemed to be made up of marbles balanced on a steep narrow path. Gradually once again the severity of the barren landscape gave way to grassy slopes covered with alpenrose, and our destination of the Lindauer hut. There’s a magnificent Alpine botanic garden here – well laid out, and meticulously labeled. The hut was full – the holidays in Austria had started. For those fond of a shower at the end of a day of walking, a long wait followed, as, despite having recently built a substantial new adjoining building, there was just one shower for men, and one for women – in a hut sleeping around 200 people! Most of us had a wash in the sink.

Day eight. From the Lindauer hut to the Totalp hut on the slopes of the Schesaplana (2964m) A HOT day.

Our route hugged the northern side of a long ridge stretching in an east-west direction. First a steady climb up to a col, followed by a drop down to a crossing of paths where a north-south path runs through a massive cleft in the ridge.

The huge cleft in the ridge, with Switzerland beyond.

A derelict customs building stands at this natural gateway into Switzerland, but our path headed up to a further col, before we started our descent towards the Lunersee. Lunch was in order, but even more urgently we all felt a strong need to cool our feet in the stream next to the path. What a fabulous place this was, surrounded by alpine flowers, fab views and an ice-cold stream. It was hard to move – so we didn’t – for quite some time!

The Lunasee, with the Schesaplana behind (with snow near summit).

When we finally did get going again, it was into the furnace of the bowl in which the Lunersee reservoir is situated. The heat was simply stifling, and we had a steep 400m pull still to do up to the hut! Anyway, to cut a long story short, we all made it, and enjoyed a great stay at this friendly establishment, with fine views of wild mountain landscapes all around. Tomorrow we would climb the Schesaplana!

Day nine. Breakfast, and off at just before 7am. The route was clearly visible through the numerous snow patches as we climbed easily up, then more steeply through a more rocky area to a shoulder, then just five minutes to the summit.

View looking south-west from the summit of the Schesaplana.

The climb took just under two hours. Fantastic views. Despite the growing haze, you could see for probably 200 miles in every direction. A real treat. Our descent took just over an hour as we romped through the snow, and Kev rewarded us with a huge slice of apple strudel each on our return. Perfect!

Revived and fed, we departed for a col to the south, the Gamsluggen. This is another of those ‘sit astride with one foot in Austria and the other in Switzerland’ cols, with the Swiss side tracing its way down what is in effect a rockface, all the while protected with substantial chains carefully placed in just the right places. With us all down safely, we followed a delightful path which then contoured along the side of the ridge towards the west, finally arriving at the Schesaplana hut. It was still incredibly hot, and heavy clouds were building. The hut has numerous tables on a terrace overlooking the valley, and we were all well fed ‘al fresco’, then there was a sudden mad rush indoors as the first few huge spots of rain fell. Then there was hail. It hailed large marbles for about ten minutes, turning the ground white.

Group photo: clockwise from top left – Kev, John, Jeanette, Lesley, Jonathan and Min.

Our final morning was clear and sunny once again, and we posed for the group photograph, before Kev and Min returned to the Carschina hut for their last night in the mountains. John, Jeanette, Jonathan and I had to make our way down to the valley and then to Zurich, as our flight home was early the following morning. It should have been an easy descent, but we briefly managed to get lost in a wood. (these guidebook people – no idea!) A quick and frantic wave to a bus driver brought a welcome ride for the last 300m to the valley floor at Grusen and a train to Zermatt, then home.

Rhatikon limestone.

Those ten days just flew by, with some abiding memories of alpine flower meadows, snow, extreme heat, challenging mountain paths and above all, great company. It was fascinating to see an author at work, and the care taken in recording every detail. Now you need to wait for the guidebook, although much of the route we followed can be found in either ‘The Engadine, Switzerland’ and ‘Walking in Austria’ both by Kev Reynolds.

Go for it – you will not be disappointed!

Note: The route was walked during the first ten days in July. Snow conditions would normally be better later in the month, through to September.

Two small glaciers to cross, and a return to Switzerland, and fine weather again.

Day six. ‘It’ll be a  doddle’ said Kev.

A walk from the Saarbruckner hut to Sardasca, and on to the Rhaticon mountains via Klosters, a short train ride to Kublis, then a bus, (or rather a taxi in our case as it was getting late in the day) up to the delightfully situated village of St Antonien, and into the Rhatikon mountains…

Protected section of the path leaving the Saabruckner Hut

Within half a minute of leaving the Saarbruckner hut we were on an exposed rocky path protected with cables, which then climbed steeply towards our first col of the day, the Kromerlucke (2729m). The col is one of those pointy things, where you can walk with care along the length of it, but could easily sit down with one leg each side of it. We looked across the Kromer glacier towards our next ridge and col. And then we looked down. A 70 degree snow slope descended for around 200 metres before beginning to level out. Our route across the glacier would then involve a steep climb up loose moraine onto the next ridge, then another short glacier crossing before gaining a small col. A short exposed rocky traverse would follow, round to the Plattenjock (2748m), and the border with Switzerland.

Time to get the ‘microspikes’ and ice axes out! This would have been a good moment for us to have been roped together – but this was a trekking holiday and we didn’t have a rope.

Descending 70 degree snow from the Kromerlucke col (2729m). Photo Kev Reynolds

John ventured down first, while Jeanette followed about ten metres after him. Suddenly Jeanette lost both traction and her ice axe and shot down the slope, fortunately straight into John. This was unnerving to say the least, and the rest of us still high on the col did more than just pause for a moment. One by one we gingerly started down the slope, with John and Jeanette now far below us. Ice axes slid easily into the soft snow, but all was well. The short steep scamper to the next ridge went easily with the added grip from the microspikes, and the second glacier crossing was fortunately far less problematic.

We were now back in Switzerland.

Descent into Switzerland down the beautiful valley towards Sardasca.

From the high point, the path plunged through snow patches and rocks. Gradually the sterile landscape of the high mountains gave way to grassy hillsides smothered with alpenrose and wild flowers, as a perfect turquoise lake appeared far below. Past the lake, the path rounded a huge boulder, behind which we suddenly found the tiny Seetalhutte, built directly into the rock for perfect protection. Time for a refreshing drink of home made apple syrup, before making the final hour of descent to the farm hamlet of Sardasca. From here we phoned for a taxi to take us to Klosters.

Tomorrow’s blog is from the Rhatikon…

Jamtal Hut, Austria. The trek continues, as Austria greets us with bad weather.

Day four. Jamtal hut to Weisbadener Hut, just to the north of Piz Buin.
Kev’s original plan had been for us to cross over the Getschnerscharte (2839m), however the previous evening we had all had a good look at the col, and the associated scree and snow – and there had been a mutiny! So our route took us north down the Jamtal valley to the small but prosperous ski resort of Galtur, and after taking on provisions at the supermarket for the next couple of days, we took a bus to the north end of the Silvretta-Stausee, and then walked up to the Weisbadener hut in increasingly torrential rain. Fortunately the hut has good drying facilities which we tested fully, and by the following morning we were once again ready for whatever weather came our way.

Total functioning walking poles – 8. Jonathan purchased two new ones in Galtur!

The Weisbadener Hut, with the north side of Piz Buin behind

Day five. Weisbadener hut to Saarbruckner hut, via the Litznersattel (2737m).
An easy descent in the early morning to the southern end of the Silvretta-Stausee. From there we turned south west up the Klostertal valley, while the rain settled in for the day. The valley ascends very gently until you get to a fork in the path, where our way to the col kicked up steeply, with warnings that this was a serious mountain path. We had been warned. As it turned out, although steep, with some short sections where hands were a sensible idea, it was a good way up, and once past a small tarn, the col was gained, and we were descending in cloud and rain through the now familiar snow fields and boulders towards the Saarbruckner hut, where another great drying room quickly filled to capacity as numerous wet people filled the building. Our afternoon was spent reading, writing up notes, and playing vicious games of snakes and ladders.

Total functioning walking poles – 7.

Tomorrow’s blog is a ‘doddle’ of a day, or so Kev thought… although it had been seven years since he last walked the route…

Lavin, in the Lower Engadine, Switzerland.

Drained by the excessive heat and humidity of the previous day, we woke to find it even more hot and humid. It was to be a slow day. Our planned (and now shorter) route for the day involved walking from Lavin to the Tuoi Hut, which nestles below Piz Buin at the head of the beautiful Val Tuoi. Kev suggested a route via Guarda, one of those idealic Alpine villages, with every house decorated with ‘graffiti’ and festooned with flower boxes.

The Tuoi Valley, with Piz Buin at the head of the valley

Toiling up the Tuoi valley in the growing heat of the day went surprisingly well however, as mile upon mile of fabulous alpine meadows greeted us – crammed so full of gently swaying flowers that you could not imagine there being room for a single additional bloom. The Tuoi hut stands at 2250m, from where there are popular climber’s ascent routes up Piz Buin. Recently rebuilt, this was a friendly hut in a very special location, with good food and accommodation, but sadly no showers, although washing in ice-cold water felt a real treat after the heat of the day.

Day three. Tuoi hut to Jamtal hut in Austria, via the Furcletta col (2735m) and the Pas Flutachol (2768m)… with a descent to 2106m in between. Once again incredible heat – well over 30 degrees, so an early start was called for.

Snowy descent on the eastern side of the Furcletta col (2735m)

We all felt reasonably acclimatised now and the first col was quickly gained, with an initial snowy descent, followed by a brief ‘yomp’ when we lost track of where the path went. Down in the lower Val Urschai the oppressive heat made for slow progress, with frequent stops for water, sun lotion and photographs. The climb up to the Pass Flutachol was in two distinct parts, a steep but well graded path climbing high up on the north-west side of the valley, then a couple of kilometres of a surprisingly good path through a boulder field to the col and Austrian border. The final descent to the Jamtal hut involved crossing extensive snow patches and boulders – and loosing track of where the best route might be, before finally picking up a good path to the hut.

Total functioning walking poles – 6.

More of our adventures tomorrow…

(or the trek of the broken trekking poles!)

Wedged in the far eastern corner of Switzerland, sharing the Swiss/Austrian border lie the mountain ranges known as the Silvretta and Rhatikon. The Silvretta are classic alps, crowned by the mighty Piz Buin (of suncream fame), while the Rhatikon are a small but extraordinarily beautiful limestone range, with all the drama of rock which has undergone huge pressure and folding. These ranges were the destination of our trek with author Kev Reynolds and friends, as we ‘helped’ him research the area for a possible future guidebook.

Berghaus Vereina

Although tucked away in the far corner of Switzerland, the area is surprisingly easy to access. We booked a flight to Zurich, and from there a couple of trains took us up to Klosters within a couple of hours. From there you can either spend around 4 hours walking up to the Berghaus Vereina, or do as we did (it WAS the end of a long day!) and take the mini-bus (14SF each) to the hut. Privately run, this friendly and well organised hut perches on a bluff high above the Landquart valley, with fabulous views in every direction.

And so it was that six people and a total of 8 trekking poles set out on a ten-day adventure.

Stream crossing. Photo courtesy of Kev Reynolds

Our first full day took us up over the Vereinapass (2752m) from where we enjoyed close-up views of the Piz Linard. It was early July, and there were large stretches of snow as we gained height, as well as a fast-running stream to cross en route to the col. From here we planned to make our way down for a while, then over another col, the Fuorcla da Glims to eventually reach the Linard hut. The snow conditions and extreme heat and humidity however played a part in modifying our plans, (plus the knowledge that it’s a pretty stern little col) and instead we took the long walk steadily down the Val Sagliains to stay in Lavin that night.

Total functioning walking poles – 7.

A word about snow. There was quite a lot of the white stuff in early July, but sufficiently soft in places, especially close to rocks, to half swallow the unsuspecting trekker. And it did. Several times – and not just the heavier ones amongst our group!

Kev Reynolds finds a soft patch of snow...

We took ‘microspikes’ and lightweight ice axes – and used them – but more of that later. The other thing to know about snow, and ice, is that the glaciers on the Austrian maps have not been re-surveyed since the early 1950s, and we all know what effect global warming has had. More too on that subject later.  Look for the next blog entry tomorrow…