Welsh Winter Climbs

Guidebook contains descriptions of all the ‘classic’ winter climbing routes in Wales, plus many short 'outcrop' climbs; it offers fuller descriptions where they are available and appropriate, and it attempts to tackle grading. It also offers advice on mountaineering issues for climbers. Covering Carneddau, Glyderau, Llanberis, Yr Wyddfa, Nantlle, Lleyn Peninsula, Moelwynion, Rhinog, Cader Idris, Aran, Dyfi and Berwyn.

Although this latest edition has been substantially revised to accommodate new climbs and new crags it still embodies and draws inspiration from Rick Newcombe’s detailed and wide-ranging accounts in the two earlier editions.

Winter climbing has seen an unprecedented boom in popularity over the six or seven years since publication of the last edition, and with a number of really excellent winters in this period there has, not unnaturally, been a surge of exploration and a consequent plethora of new routes on a whole range of new crags. 'If it ices up, climb it!' seems to have been the attitude, and this has led to new climbs being established in such diverse places as Cwm Silyn and Aber Falls, Craig Ddu and Cadair Idris.

Alongside this boom a new outlook has emerged, involving perhaps a totally new ‘clientele’, more akin to the rock climbing fraternity than to the mountaineers within whose domain winter climbing was once firmly entrenched. Technical difficulty is now pursued for its own sake by climbers who are not mountaineers; frozen ‘smears’ in quarries are sought in preference to Lliwedd’s icy ribs and grooves; new climbs are recorded even before frozen beards have softened; accurate blow-by-blow descriptions are demanded…for ‘the Times They Are A’Changin’! Whilst we, the authors of this guide, regret the passing of the romantic Golden Age of British Winter Climbing (violins and sighs!), we are not ostriches on the way to becoming dodos! It’s your sport (and ours!) – do with it what you will: we are only observers and we are trying to provide the service that most of you want.

Consequently, this guide differs in some ways from its predecessors. It contains descriptions of many more short ‘outcrop’ climbs; it offers fuller descriptions where they are available and appropriate; it attempts to tackle the grading dilemma. It also offers advice on mountaineering issues for climbers who are seduced onto the tops by the promise of glistening ice only to find deep fresh snow, storm force winds and zero visibility. Of course this information is available elsewhere in a number of excellent instructional manuals, but the odd pearl of wisdom contained herein is aimed at the climber of action, whose reading is confined to guidebooks.

‘Activists’ and those with a need for ‘extreme adventure’ will doubtless be critical of any attempt to make the sport more ‘accessible’. But this guide is not aimed at them. For most of these people, winter climbing is a game of exploration and adventure. Certainly, experienced winter mountaineers will need no guidebook or grading system to promote their climbing, and the authors offer anyone in this category the opportunity to close the book at this early stage – and to refuse all the ‘clues’ it contains (so long as they’ve actually bought the book!) Happy Adventuring! But for other lesser mortals, the information is here should you want it. But take only what you need and leave the rest to discovery and chance. And afterwards, when your adventure is over, there will be many a fine yarn to spin over pints of ale, toasting around a blazing fire.

One of the problems of writing a winter guide where there are so many routes spread over such a wide area and where the majority of climbs (400 of them!) are out of condition for 360 days a year, is that it is practically impossible to have climbed and checked everything. So we haven’t! This means that descriptions and grades of some of the less popular climbs should be treated with caution. In these cases, although we may have relied to some extent on rumour, hearsay and common sense, the basic information is all there: you should be able to find the climb with reference only to this book and an OS map; its grade will approximate to that given (as far as they ever do!); and you should be able to get down safely (assuming you can get up!) – what more could you ask? Oh, yes – and there’s the odd bit of humour, just to discourage anyone who may be taking things too seriously.

Have fun!