Welsh Winter Climbs

Descriptions of all the ‘classic’ winter routes, plus many short 'outcrop' climbs; it offers fuller descriptions where they are available and appropriate, and it attempts to tackle grading. It also offers advice on mountaineering issues for climbers. Covering Carneddau, Glyderau, Llanberis, Yr Wyddfa, Nantlle, Lleyn Peninsula, Moelwynion, Rhinog, Cader Idris, Aran, Dyfi and Berwyn.

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1.4 Ffynnon Llyffant

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Grid Reference: 685645 (OS Sheet 115 Snowdon)
Altitude: 950m – 1,060m
Aspect: East

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Climbing Conditions: This high cwm accumulates and holds large quantities of snow, on which the climbing relies. After heavy snowfall and westerly winds there may be cornice and avalanche problems just below the main ridge.

Approach:
There are numerous approaches, all of them lengthy! But perhaps the best is via the SE corner of Melynllyn (approach as for Craig y Dulyn), whence a short climb up a wide, steep basin to the west gains the SE spur of Foel Grach. From here an almost level contour to the SW leads easily into the cwm. (2hrs from the car.)

This wonderful little cwm nestling high on the NE flanks of mighty Llewelyn is probably the highest in Snowdonia, and although it lacks grandeur, there is a great air of pastoral tranquility. Unfortunately perhaps, man’s presence is all around in the form of the scattered remnants of an old aeroplane. A sobering reminder to all who seek to conquer; but with the snows we are spared the sadness.

The climbing is modest, yet for those who seek the solace of untrodden snows, there is great appeal up here, spoilt only by the necessity of arriving on the Great Carneddau Highway close to the summit.

Descent:
The climbs finish on the NE ridge of Carnedd Llwewlyn, and to return to the cwm this ridge may be followed down until the crags have been passed, whence a simple descent may be made. But from the summit of Llewelyn the world is your oyster.

The three climbs described are all to the west of the small lake in the bottom of the cwm, and take shallow gullies to join the NE ridge and the main footpath.

SOUTH GULLY   150m  I
A straightforward snow climb up the broad depression finishing virtually on the summit.

CENTRAL GULLY  120m  I
The shallow snowy gully directly west of the lake some 100m right of South Gully.

NORTH GULLY  100m  I
A well-defined, easy-angled gully about 75m to the right again, above the north end of the lake.

Other possibilities exist, particularly on the small buttresses, but these are best left for individual discovery and re-discovery.