Guide to winter climbing in Wales - UK

Cover of Welsh Winter Climbs

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Availability
Reprinted
Cover
Paperback - PVC
Published
15 Dec 2009
Edition
Third
ISBN
9781852840013
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ISBN (10)
1852840013
Size
17.2 x 11.6 x 1.5cm
Weight
280g
Pages
248
No. Maps
29 including diagrams
No. Photos
8
Originally Published
1 Jan 1989

Welsh Winter Climbs

by Malcolm Campbell, Andy Newton

Guidebook to winter climbing in Wales. All the classic winter routes, plus many short outcrop climbs. Covers Carneddau, Glyderau, Llanberis, Yr Wyddfa, Nantlle, Lleyn Peninsula, Moelwynion, Rhinog, Cader Idris, Aran, Dyfi and Berwyn. It offers fuller descriptions where available and tackles grading, with advice on mountaineering issues. More...

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Seasons

Usually any time between January and March, during a sustained period of cold weather.

Centres

Betws-y-Coed, Capel Curig, Llamberis, Beddgelert.

Difficulty

All grades covered. Ice climbing and winter routes require a good level of competance to deal with Read More... the prevailing conditions.

Must See

Western Gully, Carneddau, North Ridge, Tryfan, Central Gully, Lliwedd, and many more.
 
 

View Sample Route Map

1.4 Ffynnon Llyffant


Grid Reference: 685645 (OS Sheet 115 Snowdon)
Altitude:
950m – 1,060m
Aspect:
East


Climbing Conditions: This high cwm accumulates and holds large quantities of snow, on which the climbing relies. After heavy snowfall and westerly winds there may be cornice and avalanche problems just below the main ridge.

Approach:
There are numerous approaches, all of them lengthy! But perhaps the best is via the SE corner of Melynllyn (approach as for Craig y Dulyn), whence a short climb up a wide, steep basin to the west gains the SE spur of Foel Grach. From here an almost level contour to the SW leads easily into the cwm. (2hrs from the car.)

This wonderful little cwm nestling high on the NE flanks of mighty Llewelyn is probably the highest in Snowdonia, and although it lacks grandeur, there is a great air of pastoral tranquility. Unfortunately perhaps, man’s presence is all around in the form of the scattered remnants of an old aeroplane. A sobering reminder to all who seek to conquer; but with the snows we are spared the sadness.

The climbing is modest, yet for those who seek the solace of untrodden snows, there is great appeal up here, spoilt only by the necessity of arriving on the Great Carneddau Highway close to the summit.

Descent:
The climbs finish on the NE ridge of Carnedd Llwewlyn, and to return to the cwm this ridge may be followed down until the crags have been passed, whence a simple descent may be made. But from the summit of Llewelyn the world is your oyster.

The three climbs described are all to the west of the small lake in the bottom of the cwm, and take shallow gullies to join the NE ridge and the main footpath.

SOUTH GULLY   150m  I
A straightforward snow climb up the broad depression finishing virtually on the summit.

CENTRAL GULLY  120m  I
The shallow snowy gully directly west of the lake some 100m right of South Gully.

NORTH GULLY  100m  I
A well-defined, easy-angled gully about 75m to the right again, above the north end of the lake.

Other possibilities exist, particularly on the small buttresses, but these are best left for individual discovery and re-discovery.

 
 
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