Central Switzerland - Europe - walking guidebook – Kev Reynolds
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Central Switzerland
A Walker's Guide by Kev Reynolds
A Kev Reynolds guidebook to 90 walking routes in Central Switzerland. A little known but delightful area stretching from Lucerne to the St Gotthard Pass; the edge of the Bernese Oberland to the Pragel Pass. Vierwaldstättersee (Lucerne), Muotal, Klausenpass, Maderanertal, Upper Uri, Göschener Tal, Melchtal and Sarner Aa, Englebergertal. More...
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Seasons
Mid-June to mid-September.Centres
Lucerne, Brunnen, Altdorf, Andermatt, Engleberg, and many alpine villages.Difficulty
Summer alpine mountain walking, half and full days.Must See
Lake Lucerne, the Winterberg massif, an incredible range of passes between ranges and valleys.Route 43: Unterschächen (995m) - Brunnialp (1402m) - Sittlisalp (1662m) - Unterschächen
Grade: 2-3
Distance: 14 kilometres
Height gain/loss: 667 metres
Time: 4½-5 hours
Map: L.S. 246 Klausenpass 1:50,000
The little Brunnital is one of the loveliest valleys in Central Switzerland. Indeed, it would stand comparison with the best in all the Swiss Alps. It’s not a major valley and remains largely unknown to the great majority of walkers in the Alps. But perhaps that is to its credit.
It runs south to north, draining a stupendous amphitheatre of mountains before flowing into the Schächental, and in some respects shows an affinity with the better-known valley of Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Alps - with dramatic steep-sided walls down which waterfall ribbons hang in tassles of spray. There are mid-height shelves of pasture on either side adorned with alp hamlets (some of which were visited on Route 42). There’s forest and open meadowland in the valley itself, and a jaunty river scurrying through. And there’s a magnificent headwall of mountains rising some 1600 metres above the last alp hamlet, a great upthrusting wall of stone with modest chokers of ice and permanent snow, and teasing hidden corries that taunt with their mystery.
This walk produces an insight into some of those mysteries. It gives wonderful views and, though there is a certain amount of back-tracking to be done, those views are being constantly rearranged and perspectives altered.
Begin in the main street of Unterschächen by Hotel Alpina and head south into the Brunnital. Follow the narrow road for about 1.5 kilometres until it swings left to cross to the true right bank of the river. (Note: it is possible to drive to this point, but no farther - permit-holders only may take their vehicles beyond. There’s plenty of parking space just across the bridge.)
Do not cross the bridge but continue straight ahead on a broad path/track with the river to your left. (Brunnialp is 45 minutes from here.) The way is clear and views ahead enticing. Wander through forest until the track forks to allow the left branch to cross the river. Continue ahead and as you do so you can see a fine waterfall on the opposite side of the valley through the trees. In a patch of open pasture you pass an isolated alp farm, and soon after the track becomes a surfaced road that winds up to Brunnialp (1402m; refreshments).
Brunnialp is delightfully set at the head of the valley whose length it commands. It has a number of buildings - mostly hay barns, cattle byres or farmsteads - but there’s also an attractive chapel and a small house serving refreshments.
Go into the hamlet and by the restaurant bear half-right on a waymarked trail signposted to Sittlisalp and Griesstal. A short distance up the slope branch off to the right at another signpost giving 45 minutes to Sittlisalp. This path climbs quite steeply up the hillside and in about 30 minutes from Brunnialp it forks. Head to the right, climbing a little higher, then the gradient eases and you come to Sittlisalp (1662m) which has an incongruous sign directing you along the hillside to Sittlisalp in 30 minutes! This, however, refers to the hamlet shown on the map as Vord. Boden (1635m) where there is a simple cable-car link with the valley.
Wander along the hillside following a track with another fine, though minor, rocky cirque on the left, and come to the alp buildings of Lauwi (1633m) where there is a junction of tracks. It is here that the return journey begins by taking a descending track to the right. However, it is worth delaying this descent to continue along the hillside a short distance to the last collection of buildings where an unsophisticated cable-car (more a baggage/goods hoist than a passenger vehicle) descends to the valley. Views are consistently outstanding.
Note: the map shows another path descending to Unterschächen beyond Vord. Boden. During research for this guide the path proved to be impassable. Do not attempt to follow it unless signposts have been reinstated to suggest it is once more usable.
Return to Lauwi (20 minutes) and descend on the track signposted to Unterschächen. It descends steeply in places, winding down to Brunnialp once more, and there you bear left on the path which heads all the way to Unterschächen.









