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GR54 should not be attempted by anyone who has not had a thorough ‘primer’ of approaching difficulty elsewhere in the Alps. The MONT BLANC TOUR is similar in scale: of distance and total ascended altitude, taking about the same time in which it can be accomplished. GR54 is arguably more difficult, being severe and exposed in places with attendant increase in danger and risk. Nevertheless, thousands flock to the area annually. The French quite rightly recognise its grand potential and there is a constant passage of people progressing their way around the paths.
The route ought to be punctuated by at least one rest day by staying at one of the villages through which GR54 passes. This would allow short excursions to be made with lighter packs or just simply to sit around, chat, write a few cards, attend to the laundry and ferret around the back lanes. Don’t let it be constant hard work from beginning to end.
To race around the route in eight or nine days is feasible; there are those who may have done it in much less. But what a shame to make speed the aim. The author recalls the words of Walter Pause, who, in describing a walk in the Oberland, said: ‘ the CONNOISSEUR will always take a few days longer’.
The author has made many skirmishes into the area but it was only in 1984 that he made a dedicated visit and walked every path described in this book. Rather than write a hypothetical sectionalised description it was decided that the best approach would be to divide the route into ‘days’ which exactly relate to his own performance. On review, it was found to be one of the most rewarding routes attempted but, having said that, it was without doubt the most demanding.
The easier days of Five, Ten, Twelve and the ‘day off’ Eight were essential in balancing some very hard and long days which saved the holiday from being too punishing. Possibly as a result of this mixture the author had no ailment, no discomfiture, no feeling of excessive tiredness (slept well, though!) nor a single blister to contend with. He returned to work having felt the whole venture had done him good and not wanting ‘another holiday’ to recuperate.
Variations are possible to modify the itinerary described by the author, but will be limited in some cases by the opportunities of overnight accommodation.
Some people get an added satisfaction in doing the ‘whole thing’ in which case the aim will be to get back to the starting point eventually. This constraint means that buses, taxis, lifts and all other aids to progress will be shunned. However, excursions from the main route can be aided in this manner and an example is the bus journey to la Bérarde which will allow you to get a satisfactory impression of the place in just one day, whereas it would take three on foot.
If there is no desire to tread every pace of the route then some slight improvements can be effected. A minibus might be considered useful from Vallouise up to the roadhead at Entre-les-Aigues to make more effective progress. Another example might be to continue direct from Bourg d’Arud up the facing mountainside to Alpe-de-Venosc/Mont-de-Lans and on to Mizoën with all its open views, rather than proceed along the valley floor to reach Bourg d’Oisans. There’s nothing wrong with the wooded path (in fact it is a very nice one) but the route over the mountains must surely be favoured. You may be fortunate in having the time available to do both and the book is written on that assumption.
The route may have to be varied due to landslips, problematic lying snow, works and other unforeseen obstacles. A certain versatility and judgement might have to be exercised. At the limit a route might have to be abandoned and common sense should play its part in making unfortunate decisions such as this.
The timings quoted are those taken by the author, all to the nearest five minutes. Quite often they are coincident with those seen elsewhere either in publications or on signs. They do not allow for halts of any kind.
Since 1984 the author has been able to visit the area on several more occasions and has seen for himself changes that have occurred in the meantime. Coupled with comments received from others, revision has become advisable and necessary, so this, the 2nd Edition embodies these changes.






