Walking in the Tarentaise & Beaufortain Alps
Walking in the Tarentaise & Beaufortain Alps
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January 2006
There have been quite a few changes to this guide in the 10 years since it was published, new telephone numbers and accomodation and modifications to the walks. These changes are given below in the page order in which the original article appears in the guide.
P49 Using the telephone in France – which needs to be dealt with first
Things have changed so much since I wrote this that the section is completely out of date.
1. As predicted, All numbers are now 10 figure and start 04 in the SE. quarter of France. The numbers I gave in the guide will usually work if preceded by 04. You do not now hear the train of rapid pips after dialling. Note also that in contrast, mobile ‘phone numbers start with 06. Isolated refuges are now often contacted via the guardian’s mobile.
2. Ringing the UK. The code is now 00 44...... Ringing France from the UK needs 00 33 + rest of number without the zero (Editor, has this changed ?)
3. It is no longer possible to give any safe instructions for getting the French weather forecast as they change the way it is done about every six months. If you can cope with French ring 08 92 68 02 73 and follow the instructions in the hope of raising the Bourg St Maurice méteo which gives the detailed forecast for the mountains. It may be safer to ask at the local tourist office where the forecast may even be posted for you to read.
P14 CENTRES, TOURIST OFFICES AND CAMPSITES
The following numbers have changed :
Les ARCS OT 04 79 07 12 57
BEAUFORT camping les Sources 04 79 38 33 81
BOURG ST MAURICE OT 04 79 07 12 57
There is a new campsite at Landry Tel 04 79 07 61 81, near the main road.
BRIDES LES BAINS camping 04 79 55 22 74
PEISEY OT 04 79 07 88 67 camping now only at les Lanchettes Tel. 04 79 07 93 07
La PLAGNE OT 04 79 08 79 79
PRALOGNAN OT 04 79 08 79 08
ST FOY OT 04 79 06 95 19
TIGNES OT 04 79 40 04 40
Camping les Brevières is Tel. 04 79 06 45 86
Auberge de Jeunesse at les Boisses is Tel. 04 79 41 01 93
P19 MAPS AND BOOKS
The main thing to note here is that a new series of maps is now available, Alpes sans Frontières. These follow the IGN TOP25 series and are therefore more accurate than the older Italian Maps on the frontier region. They are sold with an explanatory booklet which comes in two versions, French and Italian or English and German, so be careful what you buy. They are quite expensive but the booklet contains an enormous amount of information which supplements that in this guide. Those of interest to users of the guide are N°s
13, The Plan des Evettes(chapter 6)
14, Around Val d’Isère(chapter 6)
16, covers the Lagi di Bellacomba (chapter 5)
These maps however, cover a relatively small part of France and so may not be worth buying, but they are interesting, particularly if you intend to wander into Italy.
Summary of Refuges, various pages
Many telephone numbers have changed and these are given in the list below, together with some which had no ‘phone but can now so be contacted. One or two refuges have also been closed.
P 33
Des Fées, Tel. 04 79 22 13 64 or mobile 06 82 17 06 34
Femma, Tel. 04 79 05 45 40
P 34
Entre le Lac, Tel. 04 79 04 20 44
Plan du Lac, Tel. 04 79 05 27 13
P 35
Deffeyes, Tel. 0165 884 239 (Italy)
Ruitor, Tel. 04 79 06 92 12 for key
P78
De la Valette, Tel. 04 79 22 96 38
Fond d’Aussois, Tel. 04 79 20 39 83
P 83
Le Saut, Tel; 06 03 85 10 39
P 104
De la Martin, Tel. 04 79 08 71 49 (surveillant)
Turia, Tel. 04 79 08 71 49 (surveillant)
P 119
La Coire, Tel, 06 82 12 40 42
Nant du Beurre, Tel. 04 79 24 22 59
P125
Plan de la lai, Tel. 04 79 89 07 78
La Nova, Tel. 04 79 89 07 15
P 132
The refuges available on the Tour du Beaufortain
La Balme (now known as La Balme Pierra Menta), Tel. 06 84 35 07 41.
Presset, Tel. 06 87 54 09 18. Meals available mid June to mid September.
La Coire, see P 119.
Granier, a Gîte in the village, Tel. 04 79 55 66 32, 24 places, meals provided.
La Grangette, as in guide.
Les Clarines, apparently closed.
Molliessoullaz, as in guide.
Pémonts, Tel. 04 79 3884 56 or 06 82 94 15 45.
Le Lachat, between Les Saisies and CrestVoland, 32 places,meals provided. Tel. 04 79 31 87 36.
De Bellasta, apparently closed.
Chalet Rosalette, apparently closed.
La Balme, as in guide.
Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, as in guide.
Plan de la Lai, see P 125.
La Nova, see P 125
P177
Le Monal, Tel 06 07 38 24 69
L’Archeboc, Tel. 04 79 06 87 19
Notes on changes affecting some of the walks
The walks described in this guide have generally changed little but have nevertheless been affected by two influences, climate warming with the inevitable reduction in the size of the lower altitude glaciers and the increasing awareness by the tourist associations of the region of the potential of the walking here. Skiing is no longer the only obsession. This latter change in attitude has meant that paths are now much better signposted than they were and are more used. This does not really effect the validity of the guide because I did not refer to signposts in the walk descriptions but suggested that they be used as confirmation of the route. There is now much more confirmation to be found on your way !
P 61 The Cheval Noire
The path from the col du Cheval Noire to the summit has much improved with time. The route from the col de la Madeleine is an attractive and shorter alternative though steep in its upper part, but scenically, I still prefer the route I give from la Sauce.
P 92 Lac de la Plagne
This has become a very popular walk and the refuge Entre le Lac is a popular venue for those who want a civilised meal in splendid surroundings.
P 123 Rocher du Vent
The Tunnel. This was bored just before or just after the war and was to be part of a motorable road, the Grand Tour des Alpes, now thankfully abandoned. You can walk through this (torches and watch your heads) and follow a path which goes round the N side of the mountain, with paths up to the summit of the northern blade of rock, eventually rejoining the path already described.
P 125 The tour of the Beaufortain
The more recent TOP 25 maps N°s 3532 OT and 3531 OT have a path called Tour du Beaufortin marked on them. This is essentially a longer variant of the walk I describe. Starting at the refige of La Balme, it makes a big deviation through Granier to the refuge de la Coire spending much time in the forest and descending quite low. Next it makes another big loop south through Grande Naves and back either to Arêches or the ski resort of le Planey.Then over the Pas de l’Ane and down through the forest to Queige whence you make for the ski resort of Crest Voland and back towards les Saisies where you take the route described in my guide or more or less. I have the impression that this has been designed to bolster the economies of the high villages. It spends much time in the forest, which though pleasant, I personally do not enjoy to excess and prefer the open hills. Obviously, the choice is up to you.
P 142 Cinq Lacs
The lower section of the paths between 2000 and 2320 m have been dug up to lay a water main. A new path will no doubt form in time but at the moment you have to follow the line of the excavations which is easy enough if not as pleasant as a path.
P 154 Mt Miravidi and the three Cols
The change in the glaciers affects two walks in this section where the glacier section was at the time sufficiently easy for me to recommend it to walkers. These are :
From the col du Breuil it used to be possible to climb across a small begrschrund to get to Mt Miravidi without needing anything more than an ice axe. This is no longer possible as the bergschrund has become wider and the slopes above and below, a lot steeper. The col du Breuil walk now is possible only as far as the col and it is much better to walk up to the col des Veis then Mt Miravidi.
The traverse from Mt Miravidi across the glacier to the col Rousse is now also dangerous. It was believed that there were no large crevasses on the way across and that it was therefore safe. The snow cover has now thinned so much that several big ones can be seen and others are no doubt hidden by unsafe snow bridges. This otherwise attractive route should therefore not be attempted by walkers – unless you have the necessary glacier experience and equipment. The ascent to the col Rousse from the Pont du Chézari nevertheless makes a good outing.
The preferred walk in this region is now Mt Miravidi via the col des Veis.
P163 Tour of the Dents Rouges
A new path has now been dug out on part of the route which makes route finding much easier. There is a path high up on the right of the vallon which starts at la Vacherie d’en bas and which crosses the rock fall. The new path forks right here but is not signed ( left is indicated to the passage de la Louie Blanche). This path climbs quite steeply among rocks and eventually reaches a prow with a cairn. The col de la Louie Blanche is visible ahead and the path makes more or less straight for it over gentle slopes.
P 170 Extension of walk over two cols
I have not been in this region recently but in view of the changes in the glaciers noted above I think it might be wise to avoid this route, unless you really know what you are doing on glacier terrain.
P177 Col de l’Aiguille
The upper part of this route has been altered by the construction of the St Foy ski resort.You tend to find yourself following the very steep ski pistes. It should be easier now to follow the route in the opposite direction via le Monal, the Plan du Clou and the col de l’Aiguille
P190 Refuge de Prariond, Col de la Galise and Grand Cocor
Since this part of the guide was written a new crossing has been created a little south of the col de la Galise, the Col de la Lauze. The Col de la Galise is a narrow cleft and is surrounded by high walls which limit the view into Italy. The col de la Lauze is wide open, the view is magnificent to the Grand Paradiso in Italy and to the frontier peaks to the south. Visit both cols if you have the time but of the two, I prefer the Lauze. The path splits at about 2750 m, left to la Galise, right to the Lauze and is signposted. It is also possible to descend into Italy from the Lauze if the route is clear of névé. (grade 4+, fixed chains and ropes).
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