Walking in the Central Italian Alps

The 33 walking routes in this guidebook are in Italy's central Alps, from half-day to full day and multi-day treks, they cover the Vinschgau, Stelvio National Park, Ortler group and Adamello Nature Park regions between Lake Garda and the Swiss and Austrian borders.

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Walk 8: Sesvenna Group – The Smugglers’ Gorge

via Burgeis – Schlinig (1hr45mins) – Schutzhaus Sesvenna (1hr45mins) – Schlinigpass (30mins) – Uina Schlucht (40mins) – Sur En (Switzerland) (2h20mins)

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Total walking time: 7h – 2 days suggested
Map: KOMPASS no.52 scale 1:50,000 (except for the very last stretch, but is sufficient)

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The central section is an ancient smugglers’ path hewn out of the sheer side of the dramatic dolomite Uina Schlucht gorge, and evidently used as late as the 1960s for cigarette contraband. Furthermore, for at least 450 years, the earlier sections of the route have been the scene of the summer ‘migration’ of sheep from Mals and neighbouring farms. This still takes place on a night in early July, and they are herded through Schlinig and across into Swiss pasture. Should you happen to be there when the flocks and shepherds arrive, you’ll find a scene akin to a country fair, with customs officers (to count the heads and exact the appropriate tax), vets and hangers-on.

The walk itself is straightforward on good, well-trodden paths. The only ‘delicate’ point is the Uina gorge itself – in a sheltered position facing north, it is infamous for ‘attracting’ bad weather, and may have icy passages at the start of summer or immediately following storms.

After the ascent and a visit to the Uina gorge, if you opt not to proceed all the way down to Sur En, it is feasible to do a loop via a slightly longer variant – see the Alternative return to Schlinig. It makes a worthwhile, if long, round trip from Schlinig (you can drive this far), and can just be fitted into 1 day (approx. 6h total).

Access: to do the complete travers and round trip, start walking from Burgeis in the northern arm of Vinschgau, some 3.5km beyond Mals. Buses heading for the Reschenpass (and Austria) will drop you off on the main road just outside the village.

For the return trip, from Sur En in the Inn valley (Unter Engadin) in Switzerland, take the Postauto (PTT) bus – it crosses the River Inn by way of a lovely covered bridge – to the main road 2km away at Crusch (just south of Sent). There are connections NE via Martina, where you cross into Austria via a pass to Nauders. Here the SAD (South Tyrol, Italian) company goes back south