Langtang, Gosainkund & Helambu: A Trekker’s Guide - Nepal

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
• Reviews
• Further Reading

In a hundred ages of the gods I could not tell thee of the glories of the Himalaya.
                                                                                                                    (Skanda Purana)

North of Kathmandu, beyond the rim of the valley and seen from city rooftops, white crests of snow challenge the distant clouds. Get high enough - one of the nearby modest hills will suffice - and an impressive horizon beckons. There, rank upon rank of crystal mountains stand sharp against the sky and hold the dying sun long after the valley has given in to darkness: peaks of the Ganesh Himal, of Langtang, Jugal and Rolwaling butt one against another, shoulder to shoulder as far as the eye can see until sky pulls shutters tight onto the earth.

Divided from the Ganesh peaks by the deep trench of the Trisuli Valley, the Langtang Himal is a block of attractive, shapely mountains whose northern flanks sweep down into Tibet, and whose southern side is attended by several minor peaks reached by non-technical routes that provide stunning views of larger game, as well as the splendours of the valley below. That valley, the valley of the Langtang Khola, drains roughly east to west before emptying into the Trisuli below Syabrubensi. It’s a valley full of charm; stark and uncompromising at its head, a classic glaciated U-shaped glen in its middle sections, a narrow forested gorge in its lower reaches. At its upper, eastern, end there’s a wild outlook of soaring snow-and-ice-capped mountains rimmed with glaciers bordered in the south by the small but elegant Jugal Himal, while the main southern wall is lined with mountains that effectively block out Helambu.

With plenty of lodges between Dhunche and Kyangjin (at 3749m: 12,300ft the highest accommodation in the valley), and by virtue of a road-link with Kathmandu, trekking Langtang is possible in a round-trip of as little as a week, to and from the roadhead. But trekkers do themselves, and the valley, a disservice by rushing it. There is so much to see and to do there, with glaciers to visit, minor summits to wander up, and views to enjoy, that two full weeks could happily be spent exploring. Route descriptions and ideas for further exploration are given in the main body of this book, together with options for linking the Langtang Valley with Gosainkund and Helambu via a choice of passes.

Between Kathmandu’s valley and the snowpeaks of Langtang, and providing a direct contrast to its higher, neighbouring region, Helambu offers a series of parallel foothill ridges separated by deep river valleys. These ridges push north to south; forested here, scarred with erosion there, rucked and wrinkled and terraced with immaculate precision, skill and dogged hard labour over countless generations by people who call themselves Sherpas, although in custom, dress and language they are very different to the better-known Sherpas of Solu-Khumbu. Helambu may not give an opportunity for trekkers to make close acquaintance with dramatic peaks of the Himalayan divide, but views north from the foothill crests reward with an incredible line of snow mountains that contrast in a most charming way with the luxuriant vegetation of Helambu itself.

This is the closest trekking region to Kathmandu. An hour’s bus ride from the capital puts you in touch with a trail that climbs out of Sundarijal, and from the crest of the ridge above, all of Helambu is spread out in patterns of artistry ahead, backed by an immense skyline of countless chiselled peaks. A trekking circuit of seven or eight days gives a fine introduction to this foothill country, but no-one should assume that because altitudes are modest by Himalayan standards (Tharepati is the highest point at 3490m: 11,450ft) trekking here is without its demands, for there are some extremely long and steep uphill sections that are more severe than anything on the basic Langtang trek. As Tilman once said of a trail not far from here: “Its course resembled the line traced on a barograph in very unsettled weather.” Lodges will be found in most, if not all, villages. Standards of accommodation are generally not as high as on offer at some of the lodges in the Annapurna and Everest regions, but should be perfectly acceptable to anyone with experience of mountain huts in the Western Alps of Europe.

South-west of the Langtang Valley, and north-west of Helambu, rises the Gosainkund Lekh, a mountain wall varying in altitude from 3000 to 5000 metres (9800-16,400ft). Caught within its upper folds and basins lie numerous small lakes, one of the largest being Gosainkunda, site of a major Hindu festival which attracts thousands of pilgrims during the full moon of July-August. A clutch of rather basic lodges will be found on the north shore of this lake.

Whilst Gosainkund may be approached directly from Dhunche, most trekkers add a visit there to an exploration of either Langtang or Helambu, for the Laurebina La (4610m: 15,125ft) just above the lakes makes an obvious route of passage from one region to the other, although in certain conditions it can prove difficult when approached from Helambu. In the wake of fresh snowfall the pass can be dangerous and should be avoided by inexperienced trekkers.

* * *

After the Annapurna and Everest regions the Langtang National Park, which covers all the area included in this guide, provides the best opportunities for independent trekking in all Nepal. There are plenty of lodges and group camping areas throughout, trails are mostly clear, and altitudes less severe than experienced on many other Himalayan destinations. Visual and cultural rewards are outstanding, and although the mountains that form a daily background to these treks may not provoke an instant spark of recognition, their beauty is undisputed. Langtang Lirung, Gangchenpo, Langshisa Ri, Pemthang Karpo Ri, Dorje Lakpa...their names may mean nothing before you go, but these are no second division peaks; gaze on them once and their architecture becomes ingrained on your memory.

Langtang National Park was established in 1976. With an area of 1710 square kilometres (660 sq miles) it is Nepal’s second largest after Shey-Phoksumdo in Dolpo. Extending over the Langtang Valley, upper Helambu, Gosainkund Lekh and the Jugal Himal east of Helambu, the Park contains habitats ranging from sub-tropical to alpine. Extravagant displays of rhododendron in spring provide just one obvious appeal, but in addition the Park boasts around 1000 plant species, 160 birds and 30 species of mammal, including Himalayan tahr, musk deer and the lesser panda.

All this creates the background to some of the most rewarding treks in all Nepal.