Langtang, Gosainkund & Helambu: A Trekker’s Guide

5 main treks of up to a week in the accessible Langtang National Park region, also Gosainkund and Helambu, plus a further 20 alternative routes and variants. Sundarijal to Gosainkund and the Helambu Circuit.

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Syabru - Changtang (Lama Hotel)

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Distance: 2 kilometres (7½ miles)
Time: 4½hours
Start altitude: 2118 metres (6949ft)
High point: Ganesh View Hotel (2385m: 7825ft)
Low point: 1661 metres (5449ft)
Height gain: 774 metres (2539ft)
Height loss: 527 metres (1729ft)
Accommodation: Several lodges spaced along the route, mostly quite basic.

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Trails change. Once-important routes become virtually obsolete for one reason or another, while replacement paths are created that soon become well-established, as on this stage of the trek. Some maps still show a high route leading south-east then eastward from Syabru, before swinging north to descend to the Langtang Khola at a bridge which takes the trail across to the north bank, while the present route is not indicated at all. The main route followed by about 95% of trekkers on this stage, however, enters the Langtang Valley proper at its narrow, gorge-like western end, some way downstream of the old trail. It’s clear on the ground, although there is a short stretch where the path picks a way across a huge landslide that occurred in the 1987 monsoon and has yet to become stabilised by vegetation.

For much of the way through the gorge the trail climbs and falls in luxuriant mixed forest. At certain times of year this is alive with birdsong. Langur monkeys may be seen, and it is claimed that the red panda and wild boar also inhabit this part of the valley. Although there is no proper village settlement on this stage, there are plenty of somewhat basic lodges that provide alternative accommodation on both sides of the river.

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Leaving Syabru’s hotels descend through the remaining village, then veer right on a clear trail that cuts round among terraced fields, passing a few scattered houses and an occasional lodge. Groups sometimes camp here when the harvest has been taken. The way slopes down among bamboo thickets into the indented hillside sliced by the Ghopche Khola which is crossed on a steel bridge (1943m: 6375ft 30mins) - note the watermill just below the bridge. On the far side the trail climbs, then eases along the hillside with views of the Ganesh peaks to the north-west framed by trees. Syabru can also be clearly seen stubbed along its ridge crest.

About 45 minutes from Syabru pass a solitary tea-house, and another very simple place five minutes later built on the nose of a hillside spur - perfectly situated for trekkers returning from Langtang, for it stands at the top of a long and wearisome climb. The trail now begins its descent to the river, much of the way through tall, view-screening bamboo. In places it is narrow and quite steep, and after rain the path can become rather slippery. Approaching the landslide area the trail to Syabrubensi, not passable during the monsoon, cuts off to the left. Ignore this, cross the landslide and finish descending to the low point of this stage where there are hot springs in the bed of the valley near the river (1661m: 5449ft 1hr 20mins).

Rising now beside the river in five minutes the path brings you to two small bhatti. Beyond these the trail makes a steady climb in forest on the south bank, twisting to and fro as elevation is gained through the gorge-like narrows. Eventually the gradient eases and again the path brings you close to the Langtang Khola, which here boils and thrashes its way between great water-smoothed boulders. In another five minutes come to Bamboo Lodge (2hrs 20mins accommodation, refreshments) set in a forest clearing. Despite its name the lodge is not made of bamboo at all, but is a sturdy little hotel of stone construction.

Continue uphill through the jungly forest for a further half-hour or so, when you reach a suspension bridge. Basic lodges guard both sides of the river; Langtang Khola Bridge Lodge and Namaste Tibet Lodge (2042m: 6699ft 3hrs accommodation, refreshments). The first is on the cool, shady side, the other is more substantial and catches filtered sunshine, while the river thunders between them over a series of rapids. Cross the bridge to the north bank.

This side of the valley is not so densely forested, and is generally much more warm and dry than the south bank. Once more the trail climbs through the wooded gorge (prickly-leaved oak and rhododendron), and about 40 minutes from the bridge comes to Langtang View Hotel. Continue to the day’s high point, the aptly-named Ganesh View Hotel (2385m: 7825ft 4hrs accommodation, refreshments) where there’s a trail junction. The left-hand path is the high route to/from Syabrubensi via Syarpagaon, which makes an alternative descent route. Continue ahead, now losing height for a further 20 minutes or so, to reach the collection of basic, stone-built lodges of Changtang.

CHANGTANG (2365m: 7759ft), more popularly known as LAMA HOTEL, is set in a forest clearing near the river. There are several lodges, unsophisticated but pleasant enough, and camping spaces for one or two groups. Some of the lodges, owned by villagers from Syarpagaon, are open throughout the year.