Central Apennines of Italy - Walks, Scrambles and Climbs

Guidebook has walking, scrambling and climbing routes in Italy's Apennines. Known as Italy's mountainous spine, with secluded walks, rock climbs and scrambles on the Gran Sasso d’Italia, the Apennines also have some of Italy’s finest sport climbing crags. The central Apennines cover Abruzzo, Marche and Umbria. 26 walks, 10 scrambles, 20 climbs, 12 winter climbs, and several hundred sports climbs in Ferentillo and Grotti areas.

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WALK 2: Il Fosso di Salto del Cieco

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Location: Valnerina
Grade: 1
Time: 1hr
Total ascent: 100m
Total distance: 3km

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Character: A short walk up a beautiful, secluded canyon which affords a view of Castellonalto village perched on the top of a high, rocky wall.

Route: Driving NE up the SS 209 (Valnerina) road, continue on past the turning L for Ferentillo (18km from Terni) and take the next turning R for Precetto and Monterivoso. Follow this road through both of these villages and then continue up past the turnings L for Colle Oliva and Castellone Basso. About 400m after the Castellone Basso turning you will go over a bridge (430m). Park just after this on the R and walk across the road to the obvious path that descends to the R of the stream. Arriving at a fenced pen after 100m, go L here and cross the stream (stepping-stones). The path continues up alongside the stream, crossing it twice before arriving at a low barbed-wire fence in front of a flat, grassy area. Climb over this and walk across the flat area to the L of a low, stone wall. The path keeps to the L of the stream as far as a rocky mass that blocks the way and here you have to walk a little way up the stream (more stepping-stones) to rejoin the path. There is a small waterfall on the R here and soon after the path narrows and crosses an easy scree slope to the streambed once again. Cross the stream and follow the path to the R of it through a wooded area. At a fork soon after having crossed the stream again, go R along the more evident path (500m) that passes L of another waterfall. The path then comes out of the woods and, passing another waterfall, leads to the stream. From here you can see Castellonalto village high above the canyon walls. Cross the stream and again soon after to reach a fork to the L of a small waterfall. Go R here to the small clearing (530m/35mins). A vague path continues for 1km through areas of dense vegetation, but this part of the canyon is less interesting, so I would suggest turning back at the clearing.

SCRAMBLE 2: Tour of Corno Grande

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Location: Gran Sasso d’Italia (see Map P52)
Grade: S I/II
Time: 5hrs
Total ascent: 680m

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Character: Similar in many ways to the Tour of Corno Piccolo; there are obvious paths up gentle slopes at the beginning followed by “via ferrata” and grade I/II rock sections in the more remote parts of Gran Sasso and finally a simple descent back to the starting point. The rock in the gully and chimney leading to the Forchetta del Calderone is sound, making a very pleasant ascent.

Route: From Albergo di Campo Imperatore (2130m) take the evident path L of the observatory that climbs to a fork at 2210m and go R here (marked “Corno Grande”). A long traverse follows before a short zigzag up to the Sella di Monte Aquila (2335m/40mins). Go R here, descending slightly to another fork where you go R again. This path climbs the grassy ridge to a shoulder where path no. 4A departs R for Monte Aquila. Stay on the main path instead (no. 4) which leads to a grassy terrace (Sella di Corno Grande) at 2421m. The path steepens here, zigzagging up past a giant boulder (Il Sassone) at 2570m to a flat area where there is a plaque indicating the start of the Direttissima route beyond (2600m/50mins).

Go R here (path no. 4), descending slightly before traversing across two gullies to the base of the SSE ridge of Corno Grande (overhang) where there is a small bivvy cave. A metal ladder and cable follow and then you must climb the slanting rock wall on your L (grade II/red-yellow-red indication) to reach another cable and a ledge. Then a short traverse (cable) to a gap on a ridge is followed by a long traverse of the scree/snow slopes below the East face of Corno Grande. Continue thereafter in slight ascent to a steep scree gully (40mins). Here you can go R up to the Bafile bivvy hut (2669m/+15mins) if you wish. Keep L of the steep scree gully, climbing another narrower one marked “no. 4” on sound rock. At about 2700m if the gully is still full of snow, climb L up onto a thin ridge (grade II) and follow this up to where the gully narrows again. If there is still snow to be found here, climb the L side and then traverse at the top to exit by the R wall. A chimney follows this (2750m) leading up to the Forchetta del Calderone (2790m/gap on the Corno Grande/Torrione Cambi ridge).

Descend the gully on the other side (15m) and go R (indication) to reach a wide, sloping scree ledge that you must traverse to the far side where there is a gully/ramp that descends beside the North-West face of Corno Grande’s central summit. Near the bottom of this, cross an obvious slanting ledge to reach the scree/snow area below the Calderone glacier (2680m/1hr 15mins). Continue along a boulder rib to the R of the hollow and then a rocky, scree section (red/yellow circle) to a fork below a rock wall (2655m). The descending path R goes to Sella dei Due Corni and Rifugio Franchetti. Instead continue straight here to a small ridge and after this go L up a wall (chain/cable) for 15m and then R up an easy wall (marked No. 5). A long traverse along a scree path takes you to Conca degli Invalidi (2615m/large scree area), passing the turnings L for Corno Grande’s Via Normale and W ridge and eventually curving L round to the Sella del Brecciaio (2506m) where there is a cemented cairn. Continue straight here to descend the steep scree slope on  the other side of the ridge, before a long traverse of the upper slopes of Campo Pericoli to Sella di Monti Aquila (2335m/ 1h 15mins). Descend the path L at the marked forek here to return to Albergo di Campo Imperatore (20mins).