Tour of the Vanoise - A Trekker's Guidebook
Tour of the Vanoise
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Stage 2: Refuge de l'Orgère - Col du Barbier - Refuge du Plan Sec
Distance: 11 kilometres (7 miles)
Time: 4½ hours
Start altitude: 1935m (6348ft)
High point: c.2400m (7874ft)
Height gain: 574m (1883ft)
Height loss: 181m (594ft)
Accommodation: Refuge de l’Aiguille Doran (15mins) - + camping; Refuge du Fond d’Aussois (3hrs + 30mins) - + camping; Refuge de la Dent Parrachée (3½hrs + 30mins) - + camping; Refuge du Plan Sec
This first full-day’s stage provides plenty of scenic variety and serves as an excellent introduction to the area. The route to l’Orgère on Stage 1 gave little more than a hint, but the walk to Plan Sec gradually unfolds the topography of this southern edge of the Vanoise region. The trail mimics the National Park boundary for much of the way, follows a balcony along slopes high above the Maurienne, leads through forest and over steeply sloping pastures, soaks in a panorama of big mountains walling the south and east sides of the valley, and makes a great curve round a deeply-cut glen which contains a pair of small dammed lakes.The first time we walked this route thick mist hid views for most of the way, only teasing now and then with a partial glimpse of rock peak and snowfield. Yet through the mists we spied chamois and bouquetin and sensed the grandeur of unseen landscapes. Next time we tackled it all was clear, and the full majestic variety was revealed. And along the path to the Barbier chalets we watched four baby marmots at play, close enough to touch.
Although the actual walking time needed for this stage is modest, in truth it will take much longer to get to your destination, for there’s so much to see and enjoy along the way. It’s not practicable to continue beyond Plan Sec, for the next hut is another 5½-6 hours further on. Plan Sec, however, is not the only option, for there’s a choice of three huts in all. Both Fond d’Aussois and la Dent Parrachée are owned by the CAF, while Plan Sec is privately owned. Refuge du Fond d’Aussois is located in the upper levels of the glen, reached by a 30 minute diversion, while la Dent Parrachée is perched on a shelf nearly 200 metres (656ft) above the trail. Our route passes immediately below Plan Sec, which gives this refuge the edge over the other two.
On leaving Refuge de l’Orgère two options present themselves. The most straightforward is to take a narrow path which descends directly from the hut and cuts through the pastures below, crosses a stream and comes onto a track. The alternative entails returning along the road to the forest edge to rejoin the GR5, along which you bear left and descend to a tiny chapel and a stone hut or two. This path is then joined by the direct trail mentioned above, crosses the stream and bears right along a track. Easy walking along the track brings you to a group of buildings, L’ORGÈRE (10mins) and a trail junction. Turn left, now entering forest.
Note: 300 metres (330yds) down the alternative path stands the REFUGE DE L’AIGUILLE DORAN (1860m: 6102ft) Privately-owned, 40 places, camping, meals provided, showers; open 15 May-15 Oct (04 72 12 58 70). Bookings when closed to: M Joël Portaz, 101 Rue des Quatre Vents, Villarodin - Le Bourget, 73500 Modane (04 79 20 34 51). A linking trail leads from the refuge back to the main Col du Barbier path, which it rejoins in forest.
At first, wandering through the forest, the trail follows a regular contour. Then it rises a little before losing height to the junction with the trail from Refuge de l’Aiguille Doran. Bear left at the junction. The way now begins to climb, crosses a small boulder tip followed by two minor streams, then steepens before coming to a high point of 2225 metres (7300ft) out of the trees. Here the path eases across high sloping pastures, rising slightly now and then, with fine views across and along the Maurienne where sentry-like peaks guard the valley.
Contouring a thousand metres (3280ft) or more above the valley bed the trail leads past a pair of stone buildings, LE BARBIER (1hr 50mins), and continues to wind along the indents of hillside, passes a ruin then descends to the broad grassy saddle of COL DU BARBIER (2287m: 7503ft 2hrs) from which the village of Aussois can be seen down in the valley.
The trail continues to descend and comes to another junction. Ignore the right-hand option which drops steeply to the dam at the southern end of the Plan d’Aval lake and continues to the valley. Instead take the left-hand trail heading northward along the west flank of a fine glen, on the far side of which Pointe de Bellecôte (3139m: 10,299ft) and La Dent Parrachée (3697m: 12,129ft) soar above the two gleaming lakes. A broad track may be seen carving a way across the lower slopes of these mountains, with a group of three tiny-looking buildings just above it: Refuge du Plan Sec.
In early summer this section of trail passes through a splash of crimson alpenroses. Views are enticing; not just the rim of mountains walling the glen, but the two lakes below; the first (Plan d’Aval) is the smaller and has a powerful cascade crashing into it from a 17 kilometre (10½ mile) pipe that diverts water through the mountains from the head of the Doron gorge, to serve the hydro station at Avrieux; the upper lake (Plan d’Amont) is a deep green in colour and is the more attractive.
Climbing to a high point (2387m: 7831ft) the way then enters a broad, open area littered with rocks and running with streams. Crossing this, heading roughly north-west, the trail slopes gently downhill. Another path cuts off to the right. Ours continues into a gully to the left of a large rock-and grass-covered bluff, and rises through it hugging low crags in places. Another trail junction is met. (The left-hand branch here climbs to Col de la Masse (2923m: 9590ft) for a challenging route to Refuge de l’Orgère.) Bear right, crossing a stream (one or two cairns guide the way) to pass round the northern side of the bluff before descending steeply to a saddle of grass and alpenroses overlooking Plan d’Amont. The trail continues the descent to a track and a bridge over the torrent issuing from pastures in the upper reaches of the glen. This is PONT DE LA SÉTÉRIA (2206m: 7238ft 3hrs).
Note i: A 30 minute diversion left leads to REFUGE DU FOND D’AUSSOIS (2324m: 7625ft) CAF-owned, 40 places, camping, meals provided, kitchen facilities, guardian July & August (04 79 20 39 83). Winter room permanently open.
Note ii: The Aussois glen is linked with the valley of the Doron de Chavière to the north by Col d’Aussois (2916m: 9567ft). This col is crossed by walkers tackling the shorter Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise on a strenuous route from Pralognan.
Cross the bridge and climb the slope ahead, taking care if late-winter snow still covers the trail on the initial steeply sloping section, then pass two more marked trail junctions. One offers the option of climbing left to reach yet another hut in 30 minutes.
REFUGE DE LA DENT PARRACHÉE (2511m: 8238ft) CAF-owned, 29 places, camping, meals provided, kitchen facilities, guardian July & August (04 79 20 32 87). Winter room permanently open. This hut is patronised by climbers tackling the ordinary route on La Dent Parrachée, upon whose lower south-west ridge (Arêtes de l’Eche) it is ideally situated.
Below a stone building, LA FOURNACHE (2330m: 7644ft), cut down across pastures and over two streams draining the Vallon de la Fournache. A few paces beyond the second of these bear left up a path which rises directly to a dirt road/track. Turn right along this for about 15 minutes when the three buildings of Plan Sec will be seen just above it. A signposted path leads directly to them.
REFUGE DU PLAN SEC (c2330m: 7644ft) Privately-owned, 80 places, meals provided, kitchen facilities, showers; open mid-June to mid-September (04 79 20 31 31).
* * *
Plan Sec has been converted from a summer farm, the three low stone buildings squat among the pastures gazing west across the glen to a rugged outline of peaks. One of the buildings is given over to dormitory accommodation. One is split-level and contains the guardian’s living quarters with the communal dining room (which used to be the stable) below. The third houses toilets, showers and self-catering kitchen. Downvalley a short distance away a few ski-lifts lace the hillside. Plan Sec and the dammed lakes below it lie just outside the National Park boundary.
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