Tour of the Vanoise - A Trekker's Guidebook

A 10-12 day circuit of one of the finest mountain areas of France, between Mt Blanc and the Écrins. The second most popular mountain tour after the Tour of Mont Blanc. Plus shorter treks: the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise, Tour of the Eastern Vanoise and Traverse of the Vanoise.

January 2006

STAGE 1 & 11: REFUGE DE L’AIGUILLE DORAN: Please note new telephone number: 06 80 72 46 63

STAGE 9: REFUGE DU COL DE LA VANOISE: The telephone number for this hut has changed to: 04 79 08 25 23

STAGE 10: REFUGE DE PÉCLET-POLSET: Please note that this hut has been destroyed by fire, and it is not yet known when the rebuild will be completed. Should you be planning to stay there, enquire first at the tourist office in Pralognan to discover the latest situation.

For update information on huts etc, try www.vanoise.com.fr or parc.national@vanoise.com.fr

Changes noted in July 2006.

Introduction – Maps &  Waymarks
The map mentioned in the guide was out of print and had been replaced by the one we used published by Rando Editions: Carte De Randonnees/Hiking Map 1:50,000 Vanoise, Sheet A3 with routes overprinted in red and refuges highlighted in red and white.

Stage 1
Modane:I rang the Hotel de France  beforehand and I was told that they had not been in business for 12 months. (We were happy with le Perce-Neige across from the train station).

Modane Tourist Office , beside the train station, was very helpful in phoning refuges to book – they booked the first 5 nights for us. Some phone numbers had changed. 

The direct, steeper route to l’Orgere does seem to be the route now used by GR5 – both on map and on signs.

Stage 2
There is now a choice of 4 refuges with Refuge La Fournache 4 hours from l’Orgere and 30 minutes before Ref.de Plan Sec. It used to be what you described as “a stone building, La Fournache”. We just stopped there for a drink but it seems to have the high standard that all the refuges in the area have.

Stage 3
Beyond Plan Sec at the section with a fixed rope the new map does not mark it as “difficult” (the path is well made).

La Turra is not named on the map (though there is a sign on the path).

Shortly before Le Mont the “simple-looking alp farm advertising cheese…” seems to have gone out of business.

Stage 5
As soon as you arrive at the carpark at Bellecombe follow the track signposted to the left.

Refuge Du Cuchet is manned during the day and refreshments are available. The map and signposts bring the GR5 to the refuge and the “Alternative GR5 Original Route” which you describe to Pramaria and Le Coin Bas is not marked on the map.

Pla De La Cha is not named on map.

Refuge Du Vallonbrun advertises just 27 places now – the dormitory seems to have been done up recently with most of the bunks in small enclosed sections for 4 people.
Stage 6
If you need supplies I suggest you stop at Bessans. The Tourist Office, just off the main square, was also very helpful by phoning the refuges and finding us accommodation in Val d’Isere – Le Relais du Ski.

Our map shows the high route as GR5 and the valley route as GR55E Chemin Du Petit Bonheur. A little care is needed as some signs and local maps/signboards describe the high route as the Alternative Route with GR5E on the lower route.

At Villaron turn right at the T-junction – a GR5 sign points left to the high route - (note the small chapel with a cross…)

Bonneval-Sur-Arc: Auberge d’Oul in the old village does rooms and dortoir, meals. The CAF refuge in Tralenta is self catering.

Stage 7
There is no obvious path leading to and across the snow bridge (though we could see a path on the far side). The signposted path now cuts around a rocky bluff to the right. It is a little exposed but you could go up to the road instead.

Shortly after leaving Col De l’Iseran there is a new looking reservoir – keep to the right.

Stage 8
Leaving the town of Val d’Isere  cross the Isere  river and immediately turn right and after about 100m bear right onto a forest path by a large electricity generating building. We then followed signs for Tignes.

The tarn with the tiny barrage at its southern outflow is larger than Lac des Nettes.

Refuge de la Leisse – new phone number 01 79 05 45 33.

Stage 9
Refuge du Col de la Vanoise: There are drawings in the refuge of plans for a new building which will be attached to the original refuge.

Pralognan: “Tourist information & refuge booking service”- this was the one place which would not make a booking for us.

Isertan Chalet-Refuge, at the campsite: has a new name – “Epicea Lodge”-dortoir etc.

Alternative Stage 9
Ref.d’Entre Deux Eaux: new phone number 04 79 05 27 13.

Stage 10
Chapel of La Motte: beside the chapel there is a new refuge with a large restaurant.

Refuge de Peclet-Polset: a completely new building had just been opened that month.