Walking and Trekking in Norway - Northern Europe

• Location
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• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
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Route 1: Hardangervidda West

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Distance: 74 kilometres
Time: 4-5 days
Rating: Moderate
Maps: 1315 I Ullensvang, 1415 III Hårteigen, 1415 IV Eidfjord; 1:100 000 Hardangervidda Vest
Start Altitude: Fossli, 670 metres
Highest Point: Above Torehytta, 1430 metres
Base: Geilo
Major Access: Oslo/Bergen

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Route 1 Hardangervidda West starts from Fossli, where you can visit the waterfall, Vøringsfossen. The falls were discovered at the end of the nineteenth century, when the wild country and scenery of Norway were just beginning to be noticed. It is felt that the discovery of Vøringsfossen paved the way for the beginning of the appreciation of the country’s natural beauty and the recognition of tourism in Norway. Vøringsfossen remains one of the country’s most spectacular waterfalls. For a country of many waterfalls, this is tribute indeed. The Fossli Hotel occupies the site just above the cliff and provides the most dramatic view of the falls. According to legend, Vøring, a tourist in the area, was travelling on skis in heavy snow across the Hardangervidda. Undeterred by the roar ahead, he plunged into the waterfall’s precipice.

This classic route is best walked from east to west. You start with a visit to Vøringsfossen, and end with a long downhill from Stavali into Kinsarvik. If walking in the opposite direction the long downhill becomes a demanding climb.

Fossli (670m) to Hedlo(945m) via Below Flojotdals (1200m)
4 hours 55 minutes, 19 kilometres

Elevation: Gradual, moderate
Features: Waterfall, plateau views, bus (Fossli)

Take the bus along the E7 to the Fossli Hotel. Near the hotel, Vøringsfossen drops 182 metres off a cliff, crashing into the Måbødalen below. If you wish to spend the night the Liseth Hut is a 10 minute walk east from the hotel. If you take the bus to the next stop about 5 minutes beyond the hotel, the walk to the trail is shorter. The waterfall can be viewed from here as well.

From the waterfall stop on the E7, walk on the road 500 metres east to a small bridge. Though the bridge is marked ‘private’, walkers are permitted. Follow the signs to Hedlo. The path may be difficult to follow, so watch closely for the signs. Walk to the west of the house after crossing over the bridge and follow the red Ts through the trees until you join the main track. The track from Liseth joins from the north, and now your route is obvious. As you gradually gain elevation, there are fine views north back to the dam and wide open glaciers. In one hour you’ll pass a farm at Skissete. Continue westwards and upwards along the creek for 5 minutes. Turning south and passing above the river below, you gain more elevation to the high point below Hallingehaugane at 1140 metres. A one hour gradual descent follows to Berastøten, where there are several summer homes and fantastic views to the Hjølmodalen cliffs. Cross the bridge about 5 minutes downstream from the homes, and follow the signs to Hedlo straight up the hill by the creek. From the top ridge you will enjoy expansive views of the entire Hardangervidda and of the famous Hårteigen. This mountain, shaped like a top hat, is a major feature in many pictures of this area. From the top descend to the next river bed, and you see several homes on the opposite side of the river. Cross the river on the bridge, and follow signposts east through the rocky gap for 15 minutes to the private hut Hedlo (P/50).

Hedlo (945m) to Hadlaskard (1000m) via High Point (1100m)
2 hours 30 minutes, 6 kilometres

Elevation: Almost level, parts moderate
Features: River views

This very pleasant route to Torehytten can be walked in one moderate day or split into two leisurely ones. Many walkers bound for Torehytten head east from Hedlo, crossing the bridge located 250 metres upstream, continue south to Fagerli, and then walk up the river valley to Viersdalen. The route I’ve described here, which goes directly south to Viersdalen from Hedlo, is longer but more scenic.

From Hedlo proceed gradually upstream on the river’s true left. In warm weather the wide river affords good swimming spots. After one hour you’ll pass some buildings, and begin a moderate ascent around some steep cliffs. You’ll reach the top in 40 minutes and get fine views of the broad river valley. Twenty minutes more brings you gradually down to the river again, past some homes, and after another 40 minutes along the flat river valley you arrive at the hut at Hadlaskard (SS/34). This pleasant hut was refurbished a few years ago and has a summer warden. You may wish to relax here for the rest of the day or move on to Torehytten.

Hadlaskard (1000m) to Torehytten (1340m)
3 hours, 6 kilometres

Elevation: Moderate
Features: River crossing, permanent snow crossing, waterfall, peak climb (optional)

From Hadlaskard your tour encounters many ups and downs, with little aggregate elevation change. In 1½ hours you reach Viersdalen at 1140 metres, an old summer farm with distant views of Hårteigen. If you wish to climb Hårteigen continue south without crossing the river. For the more direct route to Torehytten head east across the river at the T near the cottages, to the river’s true left. This junction is not signed and there is no bridge, but the crossing is easy. After that, continue east about 300 metres to next river bank. You can cross at the easiest location, or look for the Ts. Walk up the valley until you hit the main trail, continuing east. To the south the large River Sandhaugo appears. One hour from the river crossing you gain some elevation and climb the side of a cliff just before coming upon a thunderous waterfall. The trail turns south-east here and passes close to the splendid deafening river. Several small lakes lie to the south, as you steeply climb above the river and pass through a rocky gap under Solnuten. Your route then opens up above Lake 1268. Ahead you see a canyon with an inlet into the lake. Walk above the lake for 10 minutes, crossing several streams which drain into the lake. You may find some snow on your final 30 minute ascent to a high point 5 minutes above Torehytten (SS/22). These two huts are splendidly placed on the icy lake’s edge with fine views of Hårteigen.

Torehytten (1340m) to Stavali (1024m) via High Point (1430m)
5 hours 20 minutes, 21 kilometres

Elevation: Moderate and gradual

From the hut, head north-west on the track towards Stavali, climbing to the high point in 20 minutes. For the next several hours the track undulates above wide river valleys to the south. One hour from the hut you pass far above the huge Lake 1184, traversing large snow sections. There is no hope of dry feet today. Two more hours brings you to the eastern shore of Lake Holma. A good lunch spot lies along the large stream that empties into the lake. After lunch you continue northward and in ½hour pass the trail to Hadlaskard, which meets you from the east. Turn west at the junction and in 1½ hours you come to the farm at Helnaberg. As you head north, a delightful part of the day awaits you. You walk up and down on the hillsides with gorgeous views of the lakes to the south. Climb gradually to the obvious gap and descend steeply over snow to Lake Lona (1129m). Follow the rocky path for 15 minutes along the lake’s western shore to the self-service hut at Stavali (SS/36).