Snow and Ice Techniques

Essential guidebook for all ice climbers. Sections cover: The Ice Axe, Crampons, Using the Axe, Step Kicking and Cutting, Self Arrest Techniques, Snow Anchors and Belaying.

Extract from Introduction to the second edition, 1984 (retained in the third edition, 1997, for historical interest)

It was only a few decades ago that the use of crampons was frowned upon as unsportsmanlike, and only a decade ago that many British climbers laughed at John Cunningham’s prancing on ice. Critics were soon silenced as the efficiency and boldness of the new technology proved its worth. Today the standard of ice climbing is extremely high, with nearly all the classic Grade VI climbs in Canada being climbed in a day by virtually unknown young climbers. Youth does not suffer the psychological barriers breached by the early pioneers such as Cunningham, MacInnes and Chouinard, but takes as the norm the accomplishments of the past.

There are some things which do not age, and one of the most potent is the mountains themselves. Ten years ago, I wrote: ‘It is important to remember that technical ability needs to be combined with a full appreciation of the constantly changing nature and attendant danger of the snow and ice environment. The latter ability can only be gained from personal experience in the mountains over a period of years.’ That advice still holds good today. Perhaps one of the most thought-provoking quotations I have come across in my climbing career is from a Farmers’ Almanac – but it has powerful implications for the aspiring mountaineer: ‘Good judgement is the result of experience – experience is the result of bad judgement.’

Good climbing!

Bill March, 1984