Snow and Ice Techniques

Essential reading for all ice climbers. Sections cover: The Ice Axe, Crampons, Using the Axe, Step Kicking and Cutting, Self Arrest Techniques, Snow Anchors and Belaying.

Introduction

Chapter One: THE ICE AXE
    Snow and Ice Equipment, Ice Axe Material, Length, Cross Section, Pick, Inclined Pick,
    Ferrule and Spike, Ice Hammers, Maintenance of Equipment, Ice Axe Attachments.

Chapter Two: CRAMPONS
    Crampons, Design and Fitting, Pros and Cons of Crampons, Care and Maintenance of
    Crampons, Crampon Technique, Crampon Exercises, Resting Positions, Front Pointing.

Chapter Three: USING THE AXE
    Using the ice axe, Walking Position, Support Position, Brace Position, Anchor Position,
    Hooking Position, Descending, Shaft Dagger Position, Mantel-shelfing, Glissading,
    Abseiling, Recovering an Ice Screw in a Rappel, Recovering an Ice Axe on a Rappel,  
    Moving Together on Ice and Snow.

Chapter Four: STEP KICKING & CUTTING
    Kicking Steps, Step Cutting – Snow, Slash Step, Side Step, Slab Cut, Pigeon Hole or  
    Stompstep, Step cutting – Ice, Side Step, Pigeon Hole Steps on Ice, Ice Nicks or Finger  
    Holds, Step Patterns, Surmounting a cornice.

Chapter Five: SELF ARREST TECHNIQUES
    Self Arrest Techniques

Chapter Six: SNOW ANCHORS AND BELAYING
    Snow and Ice Anchors/Belaying, Ice Bollard, Snow Anchors, Ice Screws, Belaying
    Techniques on Snow and Ice, Direct Pick Belay, Direct Shaft Belay, Ice Piton
    Foot Brake, Ice Axe Foot Brake, Stomper Belay, Conventional Waist Belay, Belay
    Devices, Protection and Running Placement, Dynamic Considerations of Runner
    Placement, Rope Drag on Long Pitches, Anchors for Running Belays

Appendices
    Grading of Snow and Ice Climbs, Conditions, Ice Formations.