Snow and Ice Techniques

Essential guidebook for all ice climbers. Sections cover: The Ice Axe, Crampons, Using the Axe, Step Kicking and Cutting, Self Arrest Techniques, Snow Anchors and Belaying.

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Chapter 2: Crampons

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There are almost as many types of crampons as there are ice axes, and one has a problem in selecting a suitable pair. Crampons should be light, strong and adjustable with a secure fastening to the climbing boot. The original crampon had 10 downward-projecting points, but this has been replaced by the 12-point crampon with two additional front points or lobster claws projecting from the toe of the boot. The choice between a rigid crampon and a flexible or hinged crampon is a personal one, although one should note the following points:

1. Rigid crampons have a greater tendency to ball up in soft snow conditions than hinged crampons.
2. Rigid crampons do appear to suffer from metal fatigue, and cracks and breaks have occurred in all the rigid models I have used in my personal climbing.
3. Rigid crampons are claimed to vibrate less and give a more positive placement.

From my own experience I have found the flexible hinged crampon securely fastened to the new rigid plastic climbing boots to be adequate for the hardest ice climbs.

Crampon Technique
At the present time there are three so-called different crampon techniques.

1. The French technique, flat footed or pied à plat, utilizing the downward-pointing spikes on the base of the feet. This is used on slopes up to 65° and requires flexible and diligent practice to master on the steeper slopes.
2. The German technique, front pointing or pied en avant, utilizing the forward-pointing spikes at the front of the crampons. This is used on the steeper slopes up to the vertical and requires strong calf muscles.
3. The American technique or pied à trois, which is the combination of the two techniques…