Garhwal & Kumaon: A Trekker's Guide - Himalaya, northern India

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
• Further Reading

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Khatling Glacier (3717m). Grade C+

Season: May-June and September-October. Khatling glacier was formed by the chain of mountains around it, namely the Jaonli group (6632m), Jogin group (6465m), Phating, also called Thalai Sagar (6904m), Kirti Stambh (6270m) and Bhartekunta (6578m). From the glacier there are stunning views of all these peaks. Phating looks dazzling with its steep crystal quartz face. It is the source of the Bhilangna river on which the largest dam in Asia is being built, at Tehri. According to legend a celestial Bhil girl tried to lure Lord Shiva while he was meditating. In anger, Shiva pushed her in the river. It has thus been called Bhilangna (Bhil + Ang, meaning body). The trek passes through thick forest and, higher up, lush green meadow. It is rich in wildlife, particularly black bears, and is adorned by delightful waterfalls and lakes. Many a stream has to be crossed on this trek so it is not recommended during the monsoon, despite the great temptation of alpine flowers in profusion. Tents and provisions must be carried.

Approach route: The trek starts from Ghuttu, the bus terminus. Ghuttu is connected by bus to Rishikesh, via Tehri and Ghansali, 35km. Buses also ply between Tehri and Ghuttu, 66km, twice a day.

Day 1: Reeh village (2132m), partly through forest, takes 5 hours from Ghuttu. Take the lefthand broad path gently uphill from the bus terminus along the right bank of the Bhilangna.

There is a tourist bungalow at Reeh below the village with just enough space for two tents by the side of the bungalow. The village is high above the path and cannot be counted on for accommodation.

Day 2: Gangi (2584m), the last village en route, takes 5 hours. The first 2 hours on a clear path is steeply uphill, about 600m climb, followed by gradual downhill, ending up with fairly level path. The scenery is splendid, with views of Panwali across the Bhilangna, dense forests of oak, walnuts and rhododendron and some towering waterfalls. The village school, with space for two tents, and a tourist bungalow can be used for the night. Gangi commands a panoramic view of the valley. Further north the snow-covered Himalaya appear on the skyline. Gangi gets cut off from the market centre of Ghuttu and other villages in winter due to snow and landslides. The village seems to have remained uninfluenced by the developments in the rest of Garhwal. They follow age old customs passed down the generations. Marriage is always from within the community and the groom has to pay several thousand rupees, occasionally as many as twenty thousand, for the bride. It is therefore important for them to save money for their marriage from the sale of potatoes and beans, grown in large quantities. Inbreeding coupled with genital infection has been responsible for the gradual decline of the village population which currently stands at less than 400. People of the village look alike and rather different from other Garhwalis. Their other means of livelihood is sheep breeding. Each family has its own flock of sheep, and during summer all the sheep are sent to Bugyals under the care of a few people paid to stay and look after them for the season. The villagers take turns to supply them with provisions. Most of the wool is used to make clothes for their own needs and the surplus is sold to tradesmen. This practice of rearing goats and sheep in Bugyals is adopted all over Uttarakhand.

Day 3: From Gangi it is a lovely 3 hours’ walk to Kalyani shepherd camp via dense forest. From Kalyani most people go to Bhelbagi for the night, though I do not recommend the steep slopes of Bhelbagi for camping. There is a lovely campsite at Kharsoli (2896m) shepherd camp, 2km short of Bhelbagi, beside a stream in the middle of forest. And there is a large Gujjar hut which is unoccupied from October to May and can be used. The whole area provides a beautiful setting.

Day 4: It takes only half an hour to get to Bhelbagi from Kharsoli along an easy path.

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A further half-hour beyond the cave of Bhumka is a bridge on the Bhilangna which has to be crossed if you want to make a 4 day trek to Kedarnath. After crossing the bridge follow the goat track on the left side of the river up to the Khatling glacier then turn on to the left bank of the Dudh Ganga river. Remember that it is not possible to cross the Bhilangna at Khatling. Following the Dudh Ganga bamak, Masartal lake (3675m), about 6km, takes 5 hours. It is worthwhile to camp by the lake before commencing the ascent next day. It is important to have a guide on this trek to Kedarnath as the walk is rather strenuous on one day through glacier, loose boulders and steep rocky terrain. Maximum height reached would be about 4800m. Six kilometres short of Kedarnath, the beautiful lake of Vasukital is surrounded by pretty meadows studded with flowers in summer. From here it is downhill to the temple.

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To go to Khatling glacier continue on the clear trail from Bhumka bridge on the right bank of the Bhilangna. It is steep uphill all the way. As you go higher the mountains start to appear in their full glory. There is no suitable campsite at the glacier. The day return journey from Kharsoli, with an hour at the glacier, will take about 9 hours. An early start is recommended.