Kangchenjunga: A Trekker’s Guide

Known as the Five Treasures of the Snows because of its five summits, Kangchenjunga is the world’s third highest peak (8586m). With the North Base camp trek, Ghunsa to the Simbua Khola valley, southern approaches and trekking to Kangch from Sikkim. The trek to base camp is regarded by many as the most beautiful walk in the world.

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Chirwa - Tapethok - Sokathum

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Distance: 11 kilometres (7 miles)
Time: 4 hours
Start altitude: 1330 metres (4364ft)
Highest point: 1735 metres (5692ft)
Height gain: 405 metres (1329ft)

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Another fine day’s trekking, this stage provides ever-evolving landscapes and a variety of vegetation. There are several fairly steep uphill and downhill sections, some of which are quite exposed, and more interesting bridge crossings. Towards the end of the day you cross the Simbua Khola, whose valley leads to the south side of Kangchenjunga - and finish the trek soon after in the lower reaches of the Ghunsa Khola which drains the Kangchenjunga Glacier flowing from the mountain’s north-west face.

North of Chirwa the trail crosses water-worn rocks bearing evidence that the river once flowed through the valley at a much higher level than it does today, and not long after leaving the campsite you pass a splendid rock wall smoothed and whorled at a bend in the valley where the Tamur formerly pounded against it. Just beyond this the trail forks. A minor path drops to the left into more sub-tropical forest, and offers a shorter option than the main trail - the two reunite about 45 minutes later where the valley opens out. (The lower route is narrow, but interesting, although the upper trail should be easier for laden porters.)

Five minutes after the two paths come together again (50mins from camp), cross a suspension bridge over a major tributary, and in a further 5 minutes there is a collection of eight memorials set beside the trail - oblong stones decorated with images, such as the sun, swastikas (for good luck), tridents and faces. Shortly after these have been passed you come to another suspension bridge, this one spanning the Tamur. Do not cross this, but continue ahead to a few teahouses (1430m: 4692ft 1hour refreshments). Just to the right, near the suspension bridge, you’ll find a police check-post. Above that stand the houses of TAPETHOK.

Once more the valley contracts beyond Tapethok and there is no more cultivation for a while. The trail climbs high above the river before descending again; the Tamur now milky-blue as a sure sign of its glacial origins, and the first sighting of a snowpeak glimpsed far ahead - a conical peak that appears to be blocking the Tamur’s gorge.

Two hours from Chirwa cross another suspension bridge, this one over the Thakyak Khola (1530m: 5020ft), on the far side of which stands a solitary house, with a woven bamboo-walled watermill just below. The path climbs again past one or two more houses, then twists steeply up the hillside to gain fine views along the heavily-wooded gorge and into the blue, foam-flecked river far beneath. Having gained a high point of about 1660m (5446ft), the trail then makes a pleasant belvedere with teasing hinted views of snowpeaks ahead. After a while the way descends through woodland, and 2hrs 40mins from Chirwa you pass above yet another suspension bridge spanning the Tamur River. Climbing again the path curves into the mouth of the Simbua Khola’s valley near the village of HELLOK.

From here the trail descends steeply on a rough stone staircase to a bridge where you cross the Simbua Khola (3hrs 10mins), the river which drains the Yalung Glacier on the south side of Kangchenjunga. A plaque on the north side of the bridge explains that it was built in 1984, and has a span of 54 metres. Turn left to rise steadily above the Tamur again, reaching a high point at 1735m (5692ft) as you turn into the mouth of the Ghunsa Khola Valley and slope down to the last suspension bridge of the day. On the south bank by the bridge stands a solitary house inhabited by Bhotiya people who sometimes have bottled drinks for sale (1670m: 5479ft 3hrs 45mins refreshments).

Cross the bridge and bear right away from the Tamur at last. (To reach the village of Sokathum turn left.) Five minutes from the bridge come to a meadowland above the Ghunsa Khola, with a couple of buildings, one of which is a shop (1680m: 5512ft refreshments, camping). Although the village is not seen from here, this camping area is named after it, being generally known as SOKATHUM.