Channel Island Walks

47 half- and one-day walks on these wonderful holiday islands, with easy bus and boat services. Walks on Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Herm.

Small and often very busy, but also beautiful and abounding in interest, the Channel Islands are an intriguing walking destination. The self-governing Bailiwicks of Jersey and Guernsey owe their allegiance to the Crown and seem outwardly British, but are in fact an ancient remnant of the Duchy of Normandy, with Norman-French placenames very much in evidence. For British visitors, it’s like being at home and abroad at the same time. French visitors, however, find it a quintessentially British experience!

Walkers will find magnificent cliff and coastal paths, wooded valleys and quiet country lanes. Flowers will be noticed everywhere and there is a rich birdlife. There are castles, churches, ancient monuments and fortifications to visit, as well as a host of other attractions. There are efficient and frequent bus services around Jersey and Guernsey, with easy onward access to the small islands of Alderney, Sark and Herm. This guidebook describes 47 short one-day walking routes on the islands and explains how to complete coastal walks around all of them.

Geology

In Britain virtually every major geological period is represented. Channel Islands geology is quite different, and more closely related to structures in France. Rocks are either very ancient or relatively recent, with hundreds of millions of years missing from the middle of the geological timescale. Fossils are virtually absent and sedimentary strata is quite limited. Most of the area is made up of ancient sediments and igneous rocks which have been heated, warped, crushed, deformed, melted and metamorphosed. Further intrusions of igneous rocks cause further confusion for the beginner, but there is a basic plan which can be offered in a simplified form.

The most ancient bedrocks in the Channel Islands are metamorphic and metasediment rocks which are termed Pentevrian; a name used in neighbouring France. Ancient gneisses, often containing xenoliths of other long-lost strata, are features of this early series. Dating rocks of this type is possible only by examining radio-isotopes in their mineral structure, which has suggested dates of anything from 2,500 to 1,000 million years ago for their formation. The oldest rocks occur in southern Guernsey, western Alderney and possibly on Sark.

A sedimentary series termed Brioverian dates from around 900 to 700 million years ago. These are represented by a broad band of mudstones, siltstones and conglomerates through Jersey. In Guernsey, only a small area in the west contains any of this strata, although in an altered state. One of the problems of dealing with these sediments is that even while they were being formed, they were being deformed by earthquakes, heat and pressure. Fossil remains are few, and in fact are represented only by a few worm burrows.

Following on from the formation of the Brioverian sediments, a whole series of igneous intrusions were squeezed into the area, probably from around 650 to 500 million years ago. Interestingly, both granites and gabbros were intruded, along with intermediate rock types. A host of minor sills, dykes and pipes were injected to further complicate matters. These tough, speckled, igneous rocks have been quarried all over the Channel Islands; used for local building as well as for export.

Events during the next 500 million years are conjectural, and based on geological happenings elsewhere in Britain and France. Rocks from this span of time are virtually absent, though they are known from the surrounding sea bed. On dry land, sediments date only from the past couple of million years, and as this was a time of ice ages, indications are that the climate varied from sub-tropical to sub-arctic. Sea levels fluctuated so that both raised beaches and sunken forests and peat bogs can be discerned. For much of the time, the Channel Islands would have been part of one land mass with Britain and France, but raising sea levels formed the English Channel and, one by one, each of the Channel Islands. Guernsey became an island around 14,000 years ago. Jersey was the last to become an island, around 7,000 years ago.

Exhibits relating to the geology of the Channel Islands can be studied at the Jersey Museum and Guernsey Museum, as well as at La Hougue Bie in the midde of Jersey. The British Geological Survey publishes detailed geological maps of the Channel Islands and there are a number of other publications dealing with the subject.

A Turbulent History

Little is known of the customs and traditions of nomadic Palaeolithic Man, but he hunted mammoth and woolly rhinoceros when Jersey was still part of the European mainland 200,000 years ago. Neolithic and Bronze Age people made many magnificent monuments which are dotted around the Channel Islands. Henges, mounds, tombs, and mysterious menhirs were all raised by a people whose origins are unclear and whose language is unknown. What is certain is that they had a reverence for their dead and were obviously living in well-ordered communities able to turn their hands to the construction of such mighty structures. The Romans certainly knew of these islands, though whether they wholly colonised them or simply had an occupying presence and trading links is a matter of debate.

Around the middle of the 6th century, St. Sampson brought the Christian message to Guernsey, while St. Helier lived on a rocky islet, protecting Jersey by the power of prayer. St. Helier was beheaded by pirates in the year 555. The basic parish structure of the Channel Islands, and probably most of the parish churches, date from around this period. No doubt the position of the Channel Islands made it a favourite spot for plundering by all and sundry on the open sea. The Norsemen were regular raiders in the 9th century, and by the 10th century they were well established in the territory of Normandy. It was from Normandy that Duke William I, The Longsword, claimed the islands as his own in the year 933, and they have been part of the Duchy of Normandy ever since.

Duke William II, The Conqueror, defeated Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066, and from that point the Channel Islands have maintained an allegiance to the British Crown. When King John lost Normandy to France in 1204, the Channel Islands remained loyal and were granted privileges and a measure of self-government which has continued to this day. However, the islands were repeatedly attacked, invaded and partially occupied by French forces throughout the Hundred Years War. During the most turbulent times of strife, the Pope himself intervened and decreed in 1483 that the Channel Islands should be neutral in those conflicts. The islanders were able to turn the situation to their advantage, trading with both sides! Church control passed from the French Diocese of Coutances to the English Diocese of Winchester in 1568. During the English Civil War, in the 17th century, the islands were divided against themselves; with Jersey for the Crown and Guernsey for Parliament. The French invaded for the last time in 1781, but defensive structures were consolidated against any further threats, particularly during the Napoleonic Wars, and in fact well into the 19th century. Queen Victoria visited the Channel Islands three times to inspect developments.

During the First World War, the Channel Islands escaped virtually unscathed, though the militia forces were disbanded around this time, and many of those who joined the regular army were slaughtered elsewhere in Europe. In the Second World War, after the fall of France to the German army, the Channel Islands were declared indefensible and were demilitarised. Many islanders rushed to England, particularly from Alderney, but others stayed behind and suffered five years of German occupation. Massive fortifications made the Channel Islands the most heavily defended part of Hitler’s Atlantic Wall. There were only token raids and reconnaissances by British forces, and in fact the Channel Islands were completely bypassed during the D-Day landings in nearby Normandy. Various military structures from the occupation years have been preserved as visitor attractions. Liberation Day was the 9th May 1945, and this date is comemmorated annually on all the islands except Alderney. The Channel Islands Occupation Society publishes a number of books and journals about the war years, as well as managing some of the military sites. If you look hard enough, you can find displays of everything from tunnels and tanks to wartime loo rolls and German condoms!

The modern development of the Channel Islands has been in two directions. As a holiday destination it caters for a multitude of tastes, with an emphasis on sun, sea, fun, family, good food and the outdoor life. In the financial services sector its low taxation rate has brought in billions of pounds of investment and attracted a population of millionaires. The Channel Islands still retain some quirky feudal laws and customs, have an enviably low crime rate, issue their own currency and postage stamps, and enjoy a unique history and heritage which is well interpreted at a number of interesting visitor sites.

The Jersey Museum and Guernsey Museum are good places to start enquiring into the history of the Channel Islands. More serious enquiries are best addressed to La Société Jersiaise and La Société Guernsiaise, which are based alongside the respective museums. There are numerous publications available examining all aspects of Channel Islands history.

Channel Islands Government

The Channel Islands are a quirky little archipelago, with startling divisions and some extremely parochial outlooks. They are neither colonies nor dependencies. They are not part of the United Kingdom or the European Union. They have been described as ‘Peculiars of the Crown’ meaning that they are practically the property of the Crown, and they certainly owe their allegiance to the Crown and not to Parliament. There are actually two self-governing Bailiwicks whose law-making processes are quite separate from that of the United Kingdom’s Parliament. The Bailiwick of Jersey’s affairs are quite separate from Guernsey’s too; and even within the Bailiwick of Guernsey, the island of Alderney has a measure of self-government, while the island of Sark is run on feudal lines! A thorough investigation of Channel Islands government is an absorbing study, which anyone with political inclinations might like to investigate while walking around the islands.

Parlez-Vous Franglais?

For centuries, the language commonly spoken around the Channel Islands was a Norman-French ‘patois’ which had distinct island forms which are now only rarely heard. The Jersey form is known as Jersiais, the Guernsey form as Guernsiais, and on Sark as Sercquais. The Alderney form of Aurignais has perished. What have survived are countless Norman-French placenames, curiously pronounced to the ears of visiting French, who refer to the area as Les Îles Anglo-Normandes. The bottom line is that English is universally spoken and French is fairly well understood. Nationals from many European countries live and work in the Channel Islands, or take their holidays there, so that German, Dutch, Portuguese and other languages may also be heard.

Placenames on the Channel Islands may look French, but it’s usually wrong to try and pronounce them with a French accent. Try pronouncing them the way an average English speaker might, and that will be somewhere near the mark. Best of all, listen to the way the islanders pronounce the words, and try to do the same. It’s interesting to canvass the opinion of a French visitor when faced with one of the few remaining speakers of the Norman-French ‘patois’, and its not uncommon to find them quite confused by the language!

Getting to the Channel Islands

Looking at a map of transport routes makes the Channel Islands look like the centre of the universe! Ferries ply to the islands from ports as varied as Torquay, Weymouth, Poole and Portsmouth in England; St. Quay Portrieux, St. Malo, Granville, Carteret, Diélette and Cherbourg in France. Travelling by air puts dozens of British and Continental airports into the picture. Obviously, there are seasonal variations in services to the Channel Islands, both ferries and flights, but any good travel agent will be able to advise on the current level of service. Generally, there are slightly more ways to reach Jersey than Guernsey, but there are frequent ferries and flights between the two islands. There are also plenty of flights to Alderney and regular ferry services to the tiny islands of Sark and Herm.

Package holidays to the Channel Islands can be arranged for any period from a weekend upwards. It leaves you free of the hassle of organising ferries, flights, accommodation, meals, etc. Prices can be quite competitive, though there are considerable seasonal variations. Of course, there is no bar to organising everything yourself. There are few entry formalities. British and Irish visitors do not need passports, unless they want to take advantage of onward travel into France.

To enjoy a measure of peace and quiet, yet still be able to take advantage of good weather, walkers should aim to visit the Channel Islands in spring or autumn. The peak summer season around July and August can be very hot and crowded, with severe traffic problems.

Getting Around the Islands

While cars can be taken on the larger ferries, they can only be driven on Jersey and Guernsey. It is also possible to hire cars, either pre-booked or on arrival, and there are taxi services. On the small island of Sark, the taxi will be a tractor and trailer or a horse-drawn carriage! At peak periods traffic movement and parking can be a problem on Jersey and Guernsey. Walkers should consider supporting ‘green transport’ by using bus services. There really is no need to take a car to the Channel Islands and it’s best for the environment not to use one at all. On Jersey and Guernsey, walkers can never be more than a mile away from a bus service.

There is an efficient public transport system on Jersey and Guernsey, where bus services are listed in timetables and walks can be structured to take advantage of particular frequencies of services. Walkers who wish to use the buses have the option of paying for each journey made, or buying tickets which offer anything from one day to one week’s travel. All the routes in this guidebook were researched using public transport. On the smaller islands, walking is to be preferred over any other mode of transport, but some of the transport services are so peculiar that they may prove irresistible!

On Jersey, bus timetables are available from: JMT Buses, 2/4 Caledonia Place, St. Helier, Jersey, Channel Islands. Telephone 01534 21201.

On Guernsey, bus timetables are available from: The States of Guernsey Traffic Committee, PO Box 145, Bulwer Avenue, St. Sampson’s, Guernsey, Channel Islands. Telephone 01481 43400.

Land Ownership and Access

Buying into the Channel Islands is not easy, even for millionaires! The land is very built up in some parts, and intensively cultivated in others. Greenhouses cover large parts of Guernsey, where flowers are the main crop. Jersey’s tillage acres may well be given over to its famous potato. Jersey and Guernsey cattle are grazed on the land and these are jealously cherished to the exclusion of all other breeds. Their rich, creamy milk is used for a variety of products. There are nearly 150,000 people living in the Channel Islands, in an area less than 75 square miles (195 square kilometres). Add to this the huge number of visitors and holidaymakers, plus their cars, and it’s a wonder there’s even room to breathe, let alone walk!

Amazingly, between the ranks of hotels and guesthouses, greenhouses and tiny fields, there is an intricate network of flowery paths, tracks and leafy lanes. Nowhere could be called remote, and even on Jersey and Guernsey, no place is more than a day’s walk from any other place. Furthermore, no place in the Channel Islands is more than 2 miles (3 kilometres) from the sea. On some of the cliff paths there are dramatic scenes to savour. Lengthy beaches and coastal rock platforms entice the walker towards the sea, but on the margins of the islands the tidal range is considerable and care is needed when the tide is advancing. Walkers should obtain copies of current tide tables before walking along beaches, or more particularly around the bases of cliffs where escapes may be limited. Be warned, the tidal range can be as great as 40ft (12m) and it is essential to consult the relevant tide tables if walking along the shore.

Many popular paths are quite well trodden, and there are other areas where the public are accustomed to wander, so access is often quite easy to determine. Private property is often patently obvious and no matter how quaint or grand a dwelling may seem, it may be prudent to keep your distance and admire only from the roadside. There are many fine buildings and visitor attractions which have an admission charge. These places are mentioned where they occur on or near a walking route, so carry a few pounds in your pocket if you wish to make a visit to them.

Flora and Fauna

The Channel Islands are noted for their flowers, and it is possible to find wild flowers in bloom at any time of the year. The southerly, maritime disposition of the islands and their range of fertile soils and barren rocks ensures that a wide variety of species can be recorded. Even attempting to shortlist them is a pointless exercise. The sand dunes of Les Quennevais on Jersey supports around 400 species, and even an old cemetery in the heart of St. Helier is graced with 100 species. Bear in mind that the sea is also a bountiful source of plants, and the tiny island of Lihou, off Guernsey, boasts 140 species of seaweed. Add to this the plants which are specifically cultivated in greenhouses and gardens - 60 varieties of roses in the Howard Davies Park; orchids from around the world at the Eric Young Orchid Centre - and the study of the islands’ floral tributes becomes a vast undertaking!

Even walkers who have no great interest in flowers cannot fail to be amazed at the sight of narcissi growing on the northern cliffs of Jersey, or bluebells on almost any cliff in the Channel Islands. Mix into this scene abundant swathes of sea campion, red campion, blazes of gorse and broom, nodding ox-eye daisies, and the result is a riot of colour. The sight of fleshy-leaved mesembryanthemum

(Hottentot figs) colonising entire cliffs is impressive and unusual. A comprehensive field guide to wild flowers is an essential companion on any walk, but make sure that it encompasses not only a good range of British plants, but also plants from the Mediterranean, which are at their northernmost limit on the Channel Islands.

Mammoth, woolly rhinoceros and deer are known to have flourished on Jersey, but today’s Channel Islands are devoid of large wild mammals. The rabbit does well almost everywhere, but little else is likely to be seen except for evidence of moles and small rodents. Jersey Zoo and the Guernsey Bird Gardens offer a range of exotic species. Look to the sea for other species, or at least visit an aquarium containing some of the local marine life. Notable differences occur between the islands, such as the fact that toads are found on Jersey, but not Guernsey, though green lizards may be found on both islands. Insect life can be abundant and varied, with a range of colourful butterflies, as well as more exotic species housed in special butterfly centres.

The birdlife is amazingly rich, with a range of residents and a host of migratory species. While the landmasses are rather small to support many raptors, there are owls, kestrels and sparrowhawks. The coastal margins abound in interest, attracting a range of waders who probe the beaches and rock pools for food. The cliffs and pebbly beaches provide safe nesting places for a variety of gulls and terns. Puffins are seen on some of the smaller islands and stacks, as well as gannets. There are small areas of marshland where the rare Dartford warbler might be seen or heard, and there are a few areas of dense woodland, heath and grassland sites which attract particular species. The range of bird habitats is bound to be under pressure from human developments and recreation on such tiny islands, but even so, there is plenty to see.

As with the flora, listing a couple of hundred species of birds is a pointless exercise, and so much depends on the time of year and prevailing conditions. A good field guide to birds is useful, and there are titles which are specific to the Channel Islands. The museums have exhibits relating to the flora and fauna of the islands, and visitor centres such as the Kempt Tower on Jersey have a specific bias towards flora and fauna.