Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms - A Climber's Guidebook
Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms
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CHAPTER 8 - THE STAG ROCKS
Grid Ref: 003 022
These cliffs, lying between Coire Domhain and Coire Raibeirt, look south over Loch Avon. They are divided into two main and one lesser section by an unnamed Y-shaped gully (000 022) and by Diagonal Gully (002 022), a long fault whose screes nearly reach the head of the loch.
The left-most section consists of a short, but very steep, cliff down which ice in quantity can build up. This is left of the Y-shaped gully. Between that gully and Diagonal Gully is an area of well-defined ridges. Right of Diagonal Gully is the most substantial section of cliff, which is itself cut on the left by the straight and aptly named Amphitheatre Gully. On the left of Amphitheatre Gully is Pine Tree Buttress, which has a well-featured wall dropping into Diagonal Gully. Right of Amphitheatre Gully is the flat front face of Longbow Crag.
Approaches
From the north descend either Coire Raibeirt or Coire Domhain and contour round below the foot of the cliff. Alternatively, Diagonal Gully and the Y-shaped gully give quicker descents to the appropriate section of the cliff. The climbs on the right wall of Diagonal Gully, especially those near the top, are best approached from above.
Descents
These cliffs are usually approached from the north so the climbs finish on the plateau. Any of the approach routes can be used as a return to Loch Avon.
Conditions
Conditions vary across the different parts of the cliff. The ice routes need a period of cold weather for them to form from springs above the crags. The mixed routes on Pine Tree Buttress and Longbow Crag need only a little cold weather and snow. Northerly winds are good for this crag. However, the mixed routes strip extremely rapidly in mild weather, and cold weather is essential for the harder climbs. Dry rock climbing can be had on the frontal face in winter while cliffs opposite are still clothed in snow and ice.
LEFT HAND SECTION
This is the section of cliff between left of Diagonal Gully. It consists of two parts: the Cascade area, which is the short but steep section of cliff that lies in the middle of the hillside on the west of the main rocks; and the higher set of ribs and grooves between the Y-shaped gully and Diagonal Gully.
The Overflow 45m III
A.Fyffe, I.Peter 1986
The deep groove bounding the left side of the wall down which Cascade forms can give a fine, ice-choked pitch.
Cascade 45m V,5*
W.March, D.Alcock Feb 1977
The obvious left-hand ice-fall gives a pure ice climb; although just less than vertical it gives a sustained and serious pitch.
Cascade Right-hand 45m IV,4
The right-hand ice-fall which usually contains some steps separating the steep section. This can also be thicker than its neighbour.
Truly, Madly, Chimbley 90m III*
S.Fraser, J.Lyall, M.Twomey 12 Feb 1996
A mini Deep Cut Chimney, this surprising climb lies on the narrow diagonal buttress on the left wall of the Y-shaped gully right of Cascade. Start a short way up the gully below a large block which sometimes banks out. Climb an ice-fall left of the block and move left into a bay below the chimney (25m). The back of the icy chimney is climbed until blocked by an overhang. Pull out onto the higher set of chokestones (25m and a brilliant pitch for the grade). Follow the easy gully to the top (40m).
Afterthought Arête 150m III*
W.March Nov 1969
This is the rib which bounds the Y-shaped gully on its right and forms a fine narrow arête. Start on the right of the ridge and follow the crest to the plateau.
Stag Route 135m II
J.T.Campbell, B.Findlay, N.D.Keir, G.S.Strange Jan 1969
There are two well-defined ridges right of Afterthought Arête, Triple Towers and Serrated Rib, which forms the left side of Diagonal Gully. This climb follows the runnel on the left of Triple Towers. Follow the shallow gully direct over several pitches avoiding the main pitch on the left. If the main ice pitch is climbed direct the route is Grade III, though the whole climb can be harder if not well built up.
CM Gully 135m II/III
The gully between Triple Towers and Serrated Rib, the right-hand rib. The gully curves up left and passes below a vertical rock wall to finish up the last part of Stag Route.
Diagonal Gully 250m I
The long, easy-angled gully which divides the two sections of cliff is very straightforward and more often used as a descent to approach routes on its true right wall. There is seldom a cornice, though the top section is the steepest.
RIGHT HAND SECTION
This section is broken into two by Amphitheatre Gully, with Pine Tree Buttress on its left and Longbow Crag on the right. The climbs on Pine Tree Buttress which start out of Diagonal Gully are usually approached by descending the gully.
Final Groove 80m II/III
J.Lyall, M.Sclater Nov 1988
The large right-facing groove near the top of Diagonal Gully is climbed direct.
Bambi 70m IV,5
G.Ettle, J.Finlay 18 Dec 1995
This takes the large groove immediately right of Final Selection, which is the defined ridge on the right of Final Groove. Climb up a short way then traverse right across a slab to gain the base of the groove. Climb this till it steepens, then climb a thin crack on the slab to the right. A few insecure moves on the rib gain a good ledge. Climb the corner-crack on the right, moving right to easier ground.
Purge 90m IV,4
A.Cunningham, A.Nibet 12 Dec 1986
Takes the narrower twin slabby ramps above Albino. Climb the ramps heading right for a full pitch, sparsely protected. Move left then go up into the deep, wide groove which has steep section at the start. Climb the groove to easy ground.
Albino 80m IV,5
J.McKeever, G.Taylor 13 Dec 1986
A good route up the corner whose slabby right wall has a distinctive blocky appearance. Climb the corner, delicate, to the steep headwall and go right to a huge flake. Go round the corner then climb onto the crest of the buttress and follow a shallow groove. Alternatively from round the corner go rightwards on a steep, blocky line to gain a large groove. Climb the groove and its continuation to finish up a steeper, shallower fault leading to easy ground.
Apex Gully 150m III
W.March, J.Hart 18 Feb 1971
This is the large open fault which starts about 2?3 of the way up Diagonal Gully. The lower section is often a fine ice pitch. Above this there is a choice of routes; the left fork may contain a further ice pitch.
Light Entertainment 135m III,4
J.Lyall, D.Bulmer 25 Nov 1989
A good route up a set of grooves in the vague buttress. Start just below Apex Gully, where a horizontal ledge goes right. Traverse this ledge then climb the groove at its end. Continue up grooves and chimneys to finish up a groove in a steeper tower.
Groove and Rib 135m V,6**
M.Hamilton, R.Anderson Jan 1985
The left-hand of a set of three big grooves starting in Diagonal Gully at about the level of the lowest rocks on the left. When in condition this is one of the best routes on the cliff. Climb a line of ice into the main left-facing corner, climb this then continue up the rib above to the top. If there is no ice the summer start up a corner on the left is unprotected, technical 8.
Honest Outlet 135m IV,5
J.McKeever, N.Green 15 Dec 1986
The central, straight groove merges with Deception Inlet at its top. It is very vegetated but can hold ice in quantity.
Deception Inlet 135m IV,5
G.Smith, K.Gasely 1979
The lower of the three grooves has a distinct curve to it. Climb the groove to its end in an amphitheatre, where there is a choice of finishes either trending back left or going right to finish near the top of Pine Tree Buttress.
Monarch of the Glen 160m VI,7*
J.Lyall, R.Wild 12 Jan 1991
Follows a system of grooves on the left flank of Pine Tree Buttress, excellent when in condition. Start at the base of a steep wall with red streaks. Climb a groove on the right of the wall to a diagonal roof. Move left beneath it then break through at the notch. Go up the groove above, then right to between two grooves. Climb the left groove for about 7m, then swing left into an easier groove to a ledge. Climb a steep crack in a short wall to another groove system which is followed to a ledge overlooking Deception Inlet. Climb the obvious cracks then the easy ridge to the top.
Pine Tree Route 180m IV,4
J.Bower, A.Morgan 7 Feb 1970
Follows the buttress crest which forms the edge overlooking Amphitheatre Gully. Start up the broad lower buttress which may be iced from Amphitheatre Gully. Above this there is a choice of lines but the best stays fairly close to the right edge. Can be grade III if well built up.
Amphitheatre Gully 225m V,6**
W.March, J.Hart 17 Feb 1971
The gully defining the left side of Longbow Crag, the flat front face of Stag Rocks. It provides a varied and interesting climb, especially when icy. The gully is climbed into the amphitheatre, often over ice. From the amphitheatre climb the left corner by the wedge-shaped upper wall. The crux is the first pitch up the corner. The Right-hand Finish, V,7, takes the corner line on the right side of the upper wedge-shaped wall.
Central Route 140m VI,6
G.Smith, G.Ball 1979
Lies near the middle of the flat front face of Longbow Crag, where a series of vegetated ledges and depressions run up slightly leftwards into some red rocks. Above the obvious diagonal left to right fault (taken by the summer route The Sand-Pyper) the continuation of the lower line is taken through the steeper, upper rocks.
Stagnant Gully 180m IV,4
G.Ettle, S.Kitchen 6 Jan 1995
Near the right margin of the crag a large, shallow, grassy gully runs up into an amphitheatre. Climb the lower gully into this upper depression then head left into an obvious V-groove. Ascend this groove, go behind a chokestone and continue to the top. By trending left above the main face the climb is Grade II.
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