Walking in the Cevennes
Walking in the Cevennes
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In my bedroom in the large rambling house where I grew up was a shelf full of an odd assortment of books, old and new. It was not until my early teens that I noticed a small, insignificant book entitled Travels with a Donkey in the Cevennes by Robert Louis Stevenson. This was my first introduction to a mysterious region of wild rolling hills and gorges in southern France. At the time I cared little about the Cevennes, but was more interested in the antics of a stubborn small donkey called Modestine, who sometimes consented to carry the few belongings of a then unknown Scottish student as he wound his way up and down dale.
Much later in life I reread the same little book, and it was then that I decided to explore the region on foot and visit some of the places so vividly described by Stevenson. Of course much has changed: roads have been built, towns have grown in size and tourism is now the main economic resource. Yet most of the landscape remains hauntingly wild and desolate. Many of the villages Stevenson walked through are now crumbling ruins, as many of the people, unable to survive by agriculture, left at the turn of the 19th century. In 1879 Stevenson encountered more people on his travels through the Cevennes than I did on mine!
My first Cevennes experience was a four-day circular walk in February. Although I got lost and very cold – not knowing how winter lingers in this rough upland country – the subtle magic of the area, steeped in historical conflict and economic hardship, fascinated me, and I knew I would eventually return to find out more.
It was not until many years later that I could go back and write a walking book, basing myself in two little towns, one to the north and the other to the south of the Cevennes National Park. The two areas are quite different – the south gentler and covered in chestnut trees, the north bleak open moorland and deep gorges. Insidiously the fascination of walking and discovering this remote countryside became an obsession and a pleasure, shared as always by my faithful team of walking companions.
The Cevennes
When I tell people that I am walking in the Cevennes they often look rather puzzled – some fish for the exact location by pretending they know where it is; others know the Cevennes is somewhere in France; the less inhibited come straight out and say ‘Where on earth is it?’
The Cevennes is on the southern end of the Massif Central area of France, to the west of Provence and north of the coastal town of Montpellier, but where the area begins and ends is not clear because it is not a definite département (county). The southern part belongs to the Département d’Herault, the east to the Rhône-Alpes and the Gard, and the whole region, which extends from north of the Lozère to the Spanish border, is called Languedoc/Roussillon. The real Cevennes is such a criss-cross of narrow valleys and wild upland country that it does not even have a large town at its centre. Alès, in the southeast, is the administrative capital, but is on the very perimeter of the Cevennes proper. The two dominant mountainous regions are Mont Aigoual and the more northern Mont Lozère, both part of the newly created Cevennes National Park. They are bounded in the west by four upland plateaux called causses: (from north to south) Sauveterre, Méjean, Noir and Larzac; these are separated by deep gorges, the most northern being the famous Gorges du Tarn. To the south is the leafy Arre valley and the Mediterranean.
Why the Cevennes is so little known is something of an enigma, as only the Rhône valley separates the region from Provence, the most visited area of France. But the Cevennes is so different that it could be worlds away. In place of cosy hilltop villages, the Cevennes landscape is harsh, mountainous and deserted. The weather is more extreme – the winters are cold and windblown, snow often covering the higher slopes, and the summers are dry and hot. This is not a place to appeal to the well-heeled retirement crowd or the casual tourist. The Cevennes attracts those who have a taste for a more rugged and subtle landscape – the mysterious emptiness of its endless hillsides that look like the blue crests of waves rolling to a misty horizon, the deep dark gorges and flat, stark plains resembling the Russian steppes. The Cevenese people are dour and taciturn until you get to know them but also independent and tough, with a devotion to a Calvinistic faith that sets them apart from neighbouring regions.
In the guidebook I have split the walking areas into two – north and south of the national park, the boundary being the Mont Aigoual. In the south I stayed in a tiny huddle of houses called Loves, set in a dense chestnut forest 3km up a winding road near the town of Le Vigan. Florac on the river Tarnon was my centre for the northern walks and the starting point of my tour of Mont Lozère.
Most of the walks undertaken are within one hour’s drive from the towns of Le Vigan and Florac and are well signposted. There are no paths going across private land (so walkers avoid being diverted by irate landowners), and fewer habitations mean fewer farms with yappy dogs! When you walk here you rarely meet other people or stumble on habitation – you get mesmerised by the emptiness of the country, by the endless hills stretching into nowhere and the wonderful feeling of being really alone – a rare pleasure in this constantly growing bustle of Europe.
Southern Cevennes (Walks 1–16)
The southern region, known as the Cevennes Meridionales, with the small town of Le Vigan in the Arre valley, has a Mediterranean character. Olives, vines and a variety of fruit trees are grown on the lower south-facing slopes, and the once useful mulberry trees still flourish, together with the chestnut trees at a higher altitude. The main town is Le Vigan, with 4500 inhabitants, situated on the southern side of the Mont Aigoual. It is an authentic, lively little town, the centre for a large rural area which has happily escaped being smartened up and given over exclusively to tourism. Although it, too, suffered from the decline in the silkworm industry at the end of the 19th century, it managed to continue the tradition by producing stockings, scarves and other textile products thanks to the installation of a large factory. The river Arre meanders through the town, spanned by a magnificent old Roman bridge, and in the vicinity is the Musée Cévenol, which gives a fascinating insight into the rural industries and culture of the region (see walk 1 for opening times and further information).
A few kilometres southwards is the Blandas Causse (upland plateau), which always comes as a surprise, as the switch from green hills to arid limestone plain is unexpected. It has a curious ring of stones rather like a mini-Stonehenge. These are unprotected and unpublicised, but if you see them you can just stop the car and wander around! Further on this flat region is cut in two by the winding Vis river (see Walk 5 for further information).
Mont Aigoual
North of Le Vigan are the mountainous, mainly tree-covered slopes of Mont Aigoual (alt. 1567m), on the summit of which is a Victorian edifice housing one of the last high-altitude meteorological stations in Europe. It is worth visiting for the wonderful extended view of the surrounding mountains and the Causses, as well as, if the weather is clear, the Alps, Mont Ventoux in Provence and the sea!
Mont Aigoual, consisting of schist and granite, is the most southern upland area of the Massif Central and is a bulwark between the gentler climate to the south and the harsher temperatures of the north. For this reason it is often covered in cloud as the humid air of the Mediterranean meets the colder air of the Atlantic. The name Aigoual comes from the word ‘aigualis’, meaning water, which is very appropriate, as this is one of the wettest regions in France. It is also on the ‘water dividing line’ – its streams flowing north to the Atlantic and south to the Mediterranean. This area is known for its extreme climatic changes and can be covered in snow for many of the winter months, which makes it a popular place for downhill and cross-country skiing.
The whole region is now a protected national park, created in 1970 and consisting of 230,000 hectares of rolling upland covered in moorland and forest. Unlike other French national parks, however, it has a permanent population of around 600 people, mostly sheep farmers, in its central zone. Every year in June there is a Fête de la Transhumance (sheep-droving festival) when the shepherds bring up their enormous flocks of sheep to graze on the upland pasture – the sheep are decorated with balls of wool and look very colourful. There are three main drailles (sheep paths) in the Cevennes, all going northwards – the Aubrac from Le Vigan or village of Valleraugue; the Margeride from St-Hippolyte-du-Fort; and the Gevaudan from St-Jean-du-Gard and Alès.
A hundred years ago Mont Aigoual was completely treeless and suffered from acute erosion; it was only thanks to the heroic efforts of one particular man, M. George Fabre (1844–1911), Director of Forestry, that the slopes are now covered with 15,000 hectares of forest. Not far from the summit is an arboretum and research station (called l’Hort-de-Dieu) created by the botanist Charles Flahaut from Montpellier (1852–1935), who, with the collaboration of M. Favre, planted a wide variety of species, some now over 100 years old and of impressive stature.
Starting in 1875 George Fabre cajoled various owners to sell their land and, despite opposition from the shepherds who often burnt the young saplings, he slowly started the tremendous task of replanting, using out-of-work local labourers. He finally handed 12,000 hectares to the state in 1914. The work continued with the building of roads over the mountain, but was interrupted during the First World War and through lack of funds. It was finally completed in 1939.
Although there are no walks in the book around the immediate summit, Walks 12–15 are in the Mont Aigoual vicinity. L’Abîme de Bramabiau is a vast underground cave, which is worth a visit (see Walk 15 for further information).
Northern Cevennes (Walks 17–31 and Tour of Mont Lozere)
The reason why Robert Louis Stevenson was attracted to the Cevennes is that the northern area, especially around Mont Lozère, resembles the highlands of Scotland – wild heather-clad slopes, rocky outcrops, flocks of sheep, herds of cattle (though quite different from the Scottish variety), stunted coniferous trees and rushing mountain streams. The region is cold and often covered with snow in winter, though hotter in summer than its northern counterpart – all that is missing is the squelch of bog!
Sandwiched between the upland regions of Mont Aigoual to the south and Mont Lozère to the north is the isolated small town of Florac. At the confluence of three valleys on the northern edge of the Cevennes National Park and the entrance to the famous Gorges du Tarn, it is dominated by the rocky crags of the Rocher du Rochefort, the edge of the Causse Méjean to the west; north is the Mont Lozère, with the larger town of Mende beyond. To the southeast is the scenic Cevennes ridge (Corniche des Cevennes). The D106 winds through the Mimente valley (Walk 30) linking Florac with the large town of Alès to the southeast, but it takes at least an hour to get there!
The pink rocky walls of this valley especially impressed Robert Louis Stevenson – he said that ‘steep rocky red mountains overhung the stream’, but he couldn’t find a spot to tie up his donkey because the valley was so narrow. Apart from the road it has not changed!
Formerly under the sovereignty of the Bishop of Mende, Florac was constantly revolting under the yoke of its oppressors and then, in the 16th century, it became one of the centres of the conversion to Calvinism (see ‘A Short History of the Cevennes’). Now it serves as the administrative centre of a large rural region and also lives off tourism.
With a rushing mountain stream flowing through the town under picturesque bridges, the narrow, flower-decked streets of Florac draw the holiday crowds, especially for the lively weekly market, but its main claim to fame is that the château, which dominates the town, is the administrative headquarters of the Cevennes National Park.
Corniche des Cevennes (Walks 28 and 29)
Linking Florac to St-Jean-du-Gard in the southeast is the dramatic Corniche des Cevennes, which is a long upland shoulder between the Vallée Francaise and the Vallée Borne, punctured by narrow twisting gorges and ravines (serres). At first a mere track used by the shepherds taking their sheep to upland pastures (a draille) it then became a mule track for traders going from the Mediterranean plain of Languedoc to the Gevaudan area in the north. It is now a scenic route much appreciated by tourists, as the views on all sides are magnificent. The little town of St-Jean-du-Gard at the eastern end at the confluence of the two valleys has a interesting cultural museum; once a flourishing centre for the silk, leather and wool cottage industries, it is now mainly a tourist centre.
Mont Lozère
Mont Lozère is a huge area of high granite plateaux at the north of the Cevennes region surrounded by rivers: to the north the Lot, to the east l’Altier and to the south the Gardon and the Luech. What little habitation there was has mainly disappeared, though, according to records, there is still a population of 500 people who live from sheep farming, cattle breeding and forestry. Formerly thousands of sheep made their way from the Languedoc plains in the south to these northern uplands along the well-trodden drailles, but now fewer than 3000 make the journey each year.
Until 1795 the knights of Saint John of Jerusalem owned much of the land and installed their headquarters in the isolated village of l’Hôpital. Their territory was marked by stones with a Maltese cross engraved on them, some of which can still be seen today, especially on the ascent of Pic du Finiels (alt. 1699m). The tour of Mont Lozère should not be taken lightly, though there are no technical difficulties and the path is well signposted. It is a remote upland region and there are no villages or friendly cafés to help you on your way should you feel in need of comfort and refreshment. Neither did the author meet many people, though this could be different at the height of the season. Even so every landlord seemed to know who we were and where we had come from, so there must be a bush telegraph in operation! It is advisable to book your accommodation in advance in case the establishments are shut or full.
In an effort to promote the region, the tourist department has created a rather ugly ski station at the foot of the Pic du Finiels, and there are some ski lifts and cross-country ski trails. In high summer there are quite a number of tourists who drive here to make the relatively short walk to the summit of Pic du Finiels (see Walk 20).
A small limestone area to the southwest of Mont Lozère called the Can de Bonbons (a can is a small causse or plain) is marked by huge granite standing stones called menhirs (see Walk 18). It is not known whether they were erected as markers or had some sort of religious significance. What is amazing is that early man could drag these enormous stones and erect them in such an isolated, high area. Many of the stones have now been bedded in concrete to preserve them.
Causse Méjean
To the west is the high, sparsely populated limestone plain of the Causse Méjean (30km by 20km) which lies at an altitude of approximately 1000m, surrounded by the 500m-high cliffs of the Gorges du Tarn and the Gorges de la Jonte. Freezing in winter and extremely hot in summer, it would not be an easy place to live, and the few isolated hamlets are mainly deserted. Since there are few trees (though in some places conifers have been planted) the wind whistles across the bare fields. The limestone absorbs the spring rain and, though it has hollowed out underground rivers and gorges, little water remains on the surface except in shallow depressions called lavognes, which enable the flocks to drink and the farmers to grow wheat, corn and barley. The sudden extreme changes in temperature have caused the rocks to crack and created clapas, piles of rocks and stones, which are often used to make low stone walls.
After walking up the side of the gorge, with its fascinating rocky outcrops and vertiginous cliff face, it is always something of a shock to arrive at this flat upland landscape at the top (see Walk 23). It is as though you have suddenly entered another world, with its silent windswept slopes, some dotted with boulders and bushes, small isolated fields and the occasional fir plantation, but little else. The few farms still occupied concentrate on cattle, sheep raising or making cheese. This is also the home of the rare Prezwalski horse, which is threatened with extinction in the wild but flourishes here in a protected area of 300 hectares. On the western edge, where the Gorges du Tarn meets the Gorges de la Jonte, the bald-headed vulture can be seen, its huge wings cruising the air currents among the high, dramatic cliffs. These birds were reintroduced to the region in the 1970s.
Although there are roads, to get the feel of this unique country you have discover it on foot, and one of the most interesting walks is to a strange rocky area called the Chaos de Nîmes (see Walk 26). There is also a long-distance walk around the Causse Méjean, which takes about six days.
Gorges du Tarn
The Tarn rises near the Pic Cassini in the Mont Lozère region. In its infancy a narrow, rushing, rocky stream, it widens and grows calmer as it flows west through the village of Pont-de-Montvert to join the river Tarnon at the Pont du Tarn, north of Florac. Here the cliffs are already high, but as the river sinuously carves its way like a huge snake through the Causse Sauveterre to the north and the Causse Méjean to the south, the cliff walls become even higher and more dramatic. The rare villages and habitations that cling to the riverbanks are completely overshadowed by these daunting walls of rock, often pitted with caves and small bushes.
The river continues westwards and then turns south to meet the Jonte river. All along are impressive cliffs and look-out points, and in summer the D907, which follows the river, is clogged with cars and tourists. One of the best ways to experience the gorge is to go down on a boat, if you don’t mind the odd rapid! Seen from above the water is a deep translucent green, which contrasts with the silvery sheen of the pebble beaches, dotted with bikini-clad sunbathers in high season. After the Corniches de Méjean cliffs, the river opens up and turns southwest towards the town of Millau.
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