Ben Nevis and Glen Coe are among the most celebrated winter climbing destinations in the world, offering routes from straightforward Grade I snow gullies and ridges to some of the hardest traditional winter climbs ever attempted. From the classic lines of Point Five Gully, Tower Ridge and the SC Route to the extreme test pieces of the Minus and Orion faces, Ben Nevis and Glen Coe provide a lifetime of winter climbing inspiration across every grade and style.

Now in its eighth edition, this trusted two-volume Cicerone guidebook covers more than 500 selected winter climbs in and around Ben Nevis and Glen Coe. It is the first guide to categorise every climb by style and to describe in detail how each route forms, helping climbers choose the best objective for the prevailing weather, snow and climbing conditions on the day. Covering hundreds of the finest snow, ice and mixed routes across Ben Nevis, Glen Coe and the surrounding areas, it spans everything from straightforward Grade I gullies to extreme climbs above Grade VIII.

• Choose from more than 500 winter climbs across Ben Nevis and Glen Coe, covering the North East Buttress, Minus Face, Orion Face, Tower Ridge, Carn Dearg Buttress and Coire na Ciste on the Ben, and the Aonach Eagach, Buachaille Etive Mor, Coire nan Lochan, Coire nam Beith and Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, with outlying areas including Aonach Mor, the Mamores, Beinn Udlaidh and Garbh Bheinn also covered.
• Select routes suited to your ability and the prevailing conditions using the guide’s unique approach of categorising every climb by style, with snow, ice and mixed routes further subcategorised into general, rocky, icy and turfy climbs, helping you make the right choice for the day’s weather and climbing conditions.
• Discover iconic route highlights including Point Five Gully, Tower Ridge, the SC Route, Observatory Gully, the Cascades and the Aonach Eagach Traverse, alongside hundreds of lesser-known classics across all grades and climbing styles.
• Navigate every climb with confidence using photographic topo diagrams showing the lines of ascent, detailed route descriptions covering key features, crux moves and descent information, and approach maps showing the best access to each crag.
• Plan a programme of climbs using area, crag and buttress descriptions detailing the character of each venue, with grid references, access notes and route summary tables organised by area and style.
• Prepare thoroughly for winter climbing with extensive advice on climbing styles, weather and avalanche awareness, equipment, safety precautions and access considerations, with Fort William and Glen Coe serving as ideal bases and February and March typically offering the most reliable conditions, although routes can form from December through to April.

From classic Grade I gullies to the most demanding modern test pieces on the Ben’s north face, this essential Cicerone guide is the definitive companion to winter climbing in two of the world’s greatest mountain venues.

Winter Climbs: Ben Nevis and Glen Coe – Quick Facts

Format: Two-volume set
Location: Scotland – Ben Nevis, Glen Coe, and surrounding areas
Routes covered: Hundreds of selected snow, ice, and mixed winter climbs
Difficulty: Grade I snow gullies and ridges through to extreme test pieces above Grade VIII; some of the hardest traditional winter climbs in the world; good fitness, specific skills, and avalanche assessment essential
Volume 1 coverage: Glen Coe (Aonach Eagach, Buachaille Etive Mor, Coire nan Lochan, Coire nam Beith, Bidean nam Bian) and outlying areas (Beinn Udlaidh, Garbh Bheinn, Aonach Mor, Aonach Beag)
Volume 2 coverage: Ben Nevis (North East Buttress, Minus Face, Orion Face, Tower Ridge, Carn Dearg Buttress, Coire na Ciste) and Glen Nevis (Mamores)
Key centres: Fort William and Glen Coe
Route highlights: Point Five Gully, Tower Ridge, SC Route, Aonach Eagach, Observatory Gully, the Cascades, Orion Face Direct
Navigation/mapping: Photographic topo diagrams and approach maps included for every climbing area; route summary tables by area and style
Best time to go: February and March most reliable; climbing possible December to April
Companion title: Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms (also available from Cicerone)

Author Highlight

“The art of choosing the best route to climb is one that is learned through many years of trying – and often failing – to decipher the varied influences of the weather. As well as helping you to find and follow the routes, this book aims to speed up your learning of the dark arts of winter route choice and to reduce the number of failed missions.”

- Mike Pescod, author of Winter Climbs: Ben Nevis and Glen Coe

VOLUME 1

Topos key

Preface

Introduction

Winter climbing: a recent history

Types of winter climbs: snow, ice and mixed

Weather

Avalanches

Access

Equipment

Additional safety precautions

Using this guide

Glen Coe

Aonach Eagach

Buachaille Etive Mòr

Stob Dearg

Stob Coire Altruim

Lairig Eilde

Sròn na Lairig and Eilde Canyon

The Lost Valley (Coire Gabhail)

Lost Valley Buttresses

East face of Gearr Aonach

Coire nan Lochan

North-west face of Gearr Aonach

Stob Coire nan Lochan

Far Eastern Buttress

North face of Aonach Dubh

Coire nam Beitheach

West face of Aonach Dubh

Bidean nam Bian

Stob Coire nam Beith

Glen Coe – outlying areas

Beinn Udlaidh

Sgùrr na h-Ulaidh

Beinn a’ Bheithir

Beinn Fhionnlaidh

Garbh Bheinn

Stob a’ Ghlais Choire

Appendix A Useful contacts

Appendix B Route summary table by area

Appendix C Route summary table by style

VOLUME 2

Topos key

Introduction

Using this guide

Ben Nevis

Climbs from Coire Leis

Little Brenva Face

Climbs from Observatory Gully

North East Buttress First Platform

The Minus Face

The Orion Face

Point Five Gully area

Indicator Wall

Gardyloo Buttress

Tower Ridge East Side

Tower Ridge

Douglas Boulder

Climbs from Coire na Ciste

Tower Ridge West Side

Pinnacle Buttress

Goodeve’s Buttress and the Cascades

The Comb

Number Three Gully Buttress

Creag Coire na Ciste

The Trident buttresses

Moonlight Gully Buttress

Càrn Dearg Buttress

Climbs from Castle Coire

Castle Coire

North Face of Castle Ridge

Glen Nevis

Mamores

Stob Bàn

Mullach nan Coirean

Aonach Mòr and Aonach Beag

Aonach Mòr East Face – Coire an Lochain

Aonach Mòr West Face

Aonach Beag North Face

Aonach Beag West Face

Stob Coire an Laoigh

Stob Coire an Laoigh

Appendix A Route summary table by area

Appendix B Route summary table by style

Seasons

February and March are the most reliable months for winter climbing, but there is often climbing from December to April.

Centres

Fort William and Glen Coe are the main centres to base yourself for climbing.

Difficulty

Winter climbing is particularly demanding on fitness and specific skills. These volumes include a wide range of climbs, from straightforward grade I snow gullies and ridges through to extreme test pieces above grade VIII.

Must See

Point Five Gully, Tower Ridge, SC Route and Aonach Eagach

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