Via Ferratas Italian Dolomites: Vol 1
Via Ferratas Italian Dolomites: Vol 1
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May 2008
FASSA 8: Via Attrezzata del Gronton
Whilst this route is technically closed, it is still possible to follow it, with care (see update dated August 2007). However, the easiest means of access, using the two-stage Lusia/Valbona lift system, will not be available for the whole of the 2008 summer season. Both sections of the lift have been dismantled, but it is hoped that they will, be reopened in time for the 2008/2009 winter sports season. In the meantime, the only realistic means of access to this route is by footpath 625 from Fanch.
August 2007
FASSA 8: Via Attrezzata del Gronton
This route has been closed for maintenance, with notices to that effect posted at each end. The work will involve the removal of fallen rocks, along the entire length of the path, to restore the integrity of the original construction. New cabling is also being installed. The scale of the work suggest that the route will not be formally reopened in the near future but, in the meantime, it is still a straightforward excursion until the work gets underway, although no timetable is yet available.
July 2007
Misurina
The first bus from Misurina to Rif. Auronzo, the access point for MISUR 2, 3, 4, and 5, now leaves at 08.30 (arriving at 08.55), and the first bus from Cortina to Rif. Auronzo leaves at 08.38 (arriving at 09.35).
June 2007
FASSA 14: VF Eterna Brigata Cadore
The already poor protection on this route has deteriorated to the point where it has been closed until maintenance work can be carried out. The timing of this depends on the availability of funding, so it is not possible to say with certainty when it will be carried out.
When the route is eventually reopened, some climbers may wish to undertake a descent of the ski piste. Whilst this is not something that we have researched, or could recommend, it is sometimes used, and is, on the face of it, a tempting option. We are indebted to Andy Reynolds, who has provided the following information about accessing the piste:
It is necessary to take the flight of stairs to reach the tunnel of the lift installation, which then links to the piste. There is, apparently, no other safe route to reach the piste.
January 2006
CORV 5: Piz da Lech
CORV 6: Lichtenfelser Steig
CORV 7: Ferrata Vallon
The Vallon chairlift has also been running on Tuesdays during 2004 and 2005. This is likely to be a permanent arrangement to achieve proper integration with the gondola.
ARAB 4: Col di Lana
The cabling on the ridge was being extended in 2005, and restoration work has been undertaken on several of the short tunnels in the same area.
We have also researched an alternative approach which makes the most of the spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, and also takes in the subsidiary summit of Cenglei on the east ridge. Take the minor road from Pieve di Livinallongo, to the parking area a couple of hundred metres short of the hamlet of Palla. Walk to the end of the metalled road, and follow the ‘Teriol Ladin’ path round the spectacular bowl below the main summit. Zigzag steeply up to Cenglei, drop to the shallow forcella, and climb steeply up the east ridge of Col di Lana. The protected ridge is now straight ahead, after which you descend to the west, and follow a second section of the Teriol Ladin path back to your starting point.
3: Ferrata Masare
FASSA 4: VF Roda de Vael
New cabling on FASSA 4 now takes the total on that route to some 350m, whilst the total for the combined circuit of FASSA 3 & 4 is approximately 750m.
FASSA 8: Via Attrezzata del Gronton
The access road from the SS346 has now been closed to non-authorised traffic. Fortunately, the Lusia-Valbona lift has a fairly long summer season but, for periods when the lift isn't working, we have researched an alternative walk-in from Fanch, about 4 kms to the east. From here, a steep, zigzagging path takes you to Forc. di Lusia, the start of the route. This increases the total height gain involved in the day only slightly, to about 1000m.
FASSA 9: VF Bepi Zac
The Costabella chairlift was demolished during 2005, but a replacement is under construction, and likely to be available from summer 2006. This takes a slightly different line, and will now deposit you rather higher up the hill, somewhat closer to Passo Selle.
A new rifugio is nearing completion at Passo Selle. No details are yet available, although it is considerably larger than the original.
Most importantly, though, work has now been completed to the extension of the route across the southern flanks of Cima d’Uomo although, like the original route, the sections where protection is necessary are quite limited. A diversion to the summit of Cima d’Uomo has also been improved and newly waymarked, making the ascent to this commanding summit (3010m) a fairly straightforward prospect (though some care is required due to the amount of loose rock). Whilst it would be possible to traverse the whole length of the extended route in a single day, it would be an undertaking beyond what many would feel inclined to tackle. Consequently, our advice is to treat the new, easternmost, stretch of VF Bepi Zac as a separate entity, rounding off the day with the ascent of Cima d’Uomo. We propose to incorporate this into the next revised and reprinted edition of the guidebook as FASSA 9A. A summary of the route description appears below.
FASSA 9A: VF Bepi Zac (extension) and Sentiero Alpinistico Cima Uomo
Grade 2C
From the Costabella chairlift take path 637b to Forcella Ciadin (2664m, allow about 1 ¼ hours). From here take the path to the east, way-marked ‘P02 Sent. Esperti.
The route, intermittently protected, undulates along ledges, and through a narrow gap, continuing on fairly exposed terrain to reach a very unpleasant gully on the left, about 20 minutes after leaving Forc. Ciadin. A couple of lengths of new cable protect very pleasant climbing up the wall on the left of the gully, but there is still some loose scree and big rocks to climb to reach the forcella at the top of the gully (about 2740m, and some 30 minutes after leaving Forc. Ciadin).
The waymarked path (subject to early season snow retention) goes straight ahead to reach a shoulder on the right. Climb the shoulder to reach the crest of the ridge, which gives fantastic views of Piz Boe, Marmolada, Sasso Lungo, Catinaccio and even Brenta.
Descend about 40m into a broad forcella, and walk up to the crest of the ridge to the minor summit of Om Gran (2805m), although a nearby interpretation board refers to this point as Col Bel. Your onward route is signposted to Forc. Uomo. Within a few minutes, (and about 1 ½ hours from Forc. Ciadin) you pass a large fin of rock with an impressive looking, bolted, climbing line leading up its right hand corner (a painted sign identifies this as Torre California). The path now leads, in a further 5 minutes, to the next steep section of climbing, up a 10m gully, equipped with a zigzagging cable. The path continues for a further 10 minutes to reach Forc. Uomo, at which stands a small wooden shelter. Continue to a sign pointing straight ahead, reading ‘C. Uomo Alpinistico’. A further sign, painted on a boulder, reads ‘S Pellegrino, Cirelle PO2’. This is the point where you have the option of making the ascent to the summit: the round trip involves a further 200m climbing, and takes about 1 ½ hours.
The summit route starts with an easy traverse, but soon becomes very broken as it turns upwards. There are three short passages, each no more than 2-3 metres in length, which require climbing, the rest being exposed but straightforward scrambling. Whilst there is no cable, there are numerous pegs and belay points along the way (a short rope would be helpful if you were climbing with someone inexperienced in such situations). The view from the summit is superb, as you would expect from its 3010 metre height.
Reverse the ascent and return to the junction to resume the route. Make your way down to an obvious ledge, about 50m below, which runs round the front of a broken buttress, with a narrow gap crossed by a plank bridge. Just before you arrive at the ledge, a possible escape route to Passo di S. Pellegrino is indicated. This, however, involves the descent of a badly eroded gully, and a better option exists about 30 minutes ahead. A few paces further, a sign reads ‘PO2 Tasca/Cirelle, Fulciade’, and points the way round the front of the buttress, safeguarded by a short cable. A cable then leads down a short, narrow chimney to an exposed shelf. The path continues between two large boulders, before emerging at the side of a great scree bowl, around 40 minutes after the diversion to Cima Uomo. The path crosses to the centre of the scree bowl (which, whilst not waymarked) offers a much easier escape route back to Passo di S. Pelligrino than the option you passed 30 minutes ago) before turning upwards to a broken groove safeguarded by about 30m of new cable. This is climbed easily to enter an eroded gully of some 40m, unprotected apart from several belay points, before a length of thin, old cable just below the forcella at its top. Here you start the descent to Passo di S. Pellegrino. Cables lead pleasantly down, for about 40m, into Forc. di Laghet (2765m), which marks the end of the protection, some 4 hours from leaving Forc. Ciadin.
There seems to be an option to drop down the gully to the south-west here, as a short cut back to Passo di S. Pellegrino, but we advise you to follow the signposted path to the north-east into Val Tasca. This descends a very steep scree slope down to the valley floor, where you are likely to encounter more early season snow. Follow the waymarked path south-east down Val Tasca, until it zigzags down to join path 607, which takes you back to Rif. Fuchiade (1982m, and about 1 ½ hours after leaving Forc. di Laghet). A further hour on a good gravel road leads back to Passo di S. Pellegrino and the car park.
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