Walking in the Canary Islands: Vol 2 East
Walking in the Canary Islands: Vol 2 East
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Walk 3 - Cruz Grande to Palmitos Park
Distance: 21km (13 miles)
Start: Cruz Grande
Finish: Palmitos Park
Map: 1:50,000 Military Map Sheet 42-43
Terrain: Forested mountainsides and valleys, mostly with clear paths, tracks and roads, but rugged in places.
Transport: Global Bus 18 serves Cruz Grande, linking with Maspalomas and Ayacata. Global Bus 70 links Palmitos Park with Maspalomas and Puerto Rico.
Refreshments: Only the odd bar at Ayagaure and Palmitos Park.
Cruz Grande is nothing more than a road bend on a gap, but it is the starting point for a number of fine mountain walks (see map p. 33). This particular route simply contours around the forested mountainsides for a while, then drops steep and rugged down into the valleys through the Parque Natural Pilancones. A towering pine tree flourishes in the middle of the walk, despite suffering several fires and grievous wounds. It even contains a visitor’s book in one burnt-out hollow! The descent into the valley continues, and the route passes a reservoir on the way to Ayagaure. From there, a walk up a zigzag road leads over a high ridge to finish at the exotic bird gardens of Palmitos Park.
Start at Cruz Grande, and note that the bus from San Bartolomé goes through the rocky gap before pulling in to drop off passengers. Walk back towards the gap, at 1250m (4100ft), and turn right down a clear track, then keep left, up past a little reservoir. Contour around a slope covered in pines, with a ground cover of guelder rose. Enjoy views of the mountains away to the right, and pass a sign announcing the Parque Natural Pilancones. There is a gradual ascent to a pronounced left bend. At this point, a path descends to the right, marked by parallel lines of stones, but save that for another day (see Walk 19). Stay on the broad track, descending very gently to a hairpin bend and a junction with another track. Down to the right is signposted for Los Bailaderos, Vivero and Pilancones. However, keep to the left, or straight on, and walk uphill a bit around a bend.
The track is a little narrower, but still clear to follow. It runs round a valley, down beneath a cliff that is undercut at one point, then rises gently with great views. Swing well to the left round a rocky point to enter the next valley. There is a slight ascent to turn round the head of the valley, then the track continues across the far side. (Alternatively, after turning round the rocky point, watch out for a narrow path marked by a couple of cairns, leading down to the right. This is rough and stony, but better later, crossing the valley and rising back to join the track on the far side.) You see a path rising to the left, and it is worth making a detour up to a gap for a view over to San Bartolomé. The track continues gently down to a gap, and there is a slight rise to a junction at 1183m (3881ft). Off to the left is a rocky path leading down to San Bartolomé (which can be explored with reference to Walk 4).
There is another Parque Natural Pilancones sign at the track junction. Keep right on the broad, clear track, first rising a little, then contouring across the rocky mountainside. Watch out for an obvious stone-paved path descending to the right. It becomes a narrower stony path, passing close to a giant pine tree. Guelder rose covers the ground. Zigzag downhill and don’t be drawn along any other paths. A few stone steps lead onto and off the other side of a lower forest track. The way downhill is signposted as the Camino de Pilancones. The path is obvious and zigzags at first, then slices down across the valley side to reach another truly gigantic pine tree. This one is dripping with resin, so be careful if you sit in its shade, and sign the visitor’s book if it is still lodged in the tree!
Huge boulders have fallen from the cliffs above the valley, and the path rises to a little cross with an inscription at Descansadero de los Muertos. It tells how the people of Ayagaure used to rest at that point while carrying their dead over the mountains for burial at Tunte, near San Bartolomé. The coffins were placed on a stone slab. There is also a note saying that the previous cross was replaced by the present one in 1994.
The path runs downhill, sometimes easily on a gravelly surface, and sometimes over rough and stony, or roughly boulder-paved, ground. It slices between cliff faces, and the pines begin to thin out as a wonderfully flowery scrub develops. Amaryllis blooms late in the year, and there are nut trees and prickly pears towards the bottom. Pass some little buildings and zigzag down onto a track. Turn left and quickly leave the track as marked by blobs of paint. Continue across the rocky slope, passing a few palms. Go down to cross the barranco, at 550m (1805ft), then go left up to a track, passing between two chained gateways.
Follow the track away from a finca, swinging round a side valley at another finca, then passing a third finca. Some land is under cultivation, with orange trees growing in places. There are no other habitations for a while, and the track stays well above the barranco, slicing across a slope sparsely covered in pines. Further along, houses will be seen down to the left and a big pine tree is seen near a junction of tracks. Keep straight on, crossing arid, scrubby slopes. There is a water pipe alongside the track, with a view down the valley to the reservoir, with the houses of Ayagaure above. Pass a white water-regulation building and follow the track downhill. Alternatively, walk straight down a path to cut out the first bend, then follow the winding track downhill and alongside the reservoir. Head for the little church and plaza, where you will find the Bar Asociacion del Toscon, with a little shop nearby called the Tienda Ayagaure. The altitude is 350m (1150ft).
Follow the tarmac road gently uphill from the shop. The road rises, then falls as it swings round a little valley, then rises and falls again before leaving the village. Zigzags take it up past the two last houses, which are widely spaced and have big gardens. Continue zigzagging up a steep and rugged slope to reach a gap at the top, at 492m (1614ft). Just before reaching a viewpoint on the left, cut off to the right and walk down a rough zigzag track. This leads to the Helga Masthoff Park and Sport Hotel, where there are tennis courts, palms and a surprising amount of greenery after the barren, rocky slopes encountered on most of this walk. Follow the access road down to the entrance to Palmitos Park. There are shady palms and pines, the sound of splashing water and exotic birds, as well as food and drink, if you have time to spare before catching a bus. You probably need at least two hours to make a decent tour around Palmitos Park to see the birds. If you finish too late for a bus, there are usually taxis waiting.
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