Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 1 Western Alps

The Classic Haute Route, the ski mountaineering traverse through the Alps between Chamonix and Zermatt, is described in this guidebook, which also brings together a selection of the finest high-level ski tours in the Western Alps in areas as diverse as the Ecrins, Vanoise, Haute Maurienne, Gran Paradiso, Mt Blanc, Valais and Urner Alps.

This guidebook is about ‘high-level’ ski routes, and includes a selection of my favourite tours. For most English-speaking skiers, there is probably only one high-level route – that between Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, often called the Haute Route. Most people are astonished to learn that long before it was skied in 1911, it was a recognised high-level hike. In fact it had been established by members of the Alpine Club as a relatively quick, high-level crossing between the burgeoning villages of Zermatt and Chamonix. They called it the High Level Road. Today, this route between Chamonix and Zermatt is arguably the most famous and sought-after ski tour in the world. It may therefore come as a surprise to the many who regard it as the one and only Haute Route that there are in fact a multitude of other worthwhile high-level routes throughout the Alps.

In reality, the Alps are criss-crossed with stunning ski tours, most being as sought after by knowledgeable skiers as the Chamonix–Zermatt High Level Route itself. Many have gained a classic status, though it is difficult to define what ‘classic’ means. It is certainly more than a matter of being popular. The skiing on a classic tour should, in my opinion, demand a range of skiing and mountaineering skills, call for good navigation, and be challenging, but nevertheless remain logical as a ski tour. The need to carry skis should be an occasional and logical necessity only. Once completed a classic tour should provide a better understanding of an area’s physical geography. And above all, however, it should be an enjoyable journey. Each tour in this book is arguably the best of its kind and standard in a particular mountain area and epitomises what is best about ski mountaineering in that region.

Unlike the famous Chamonix–Zermatt High Level Route, most of the tours recommended in this book did not originate as walking tours but were established as ski-touring itineraries. Because of this many offer far better downhill skiing than the famous Chamonix–Zermatt traverse! The problem for many English-speaking skiers has been finding out about all the other really great high-level routes – hence this two-volume guidebook.

The routes that follow represent a wide selection of tours throughout the Alps. If you linked them together you could traverse the Alps from the Dolomites, Tyrol and Bernina in the east to the Oberland, Pennines and Mont Blanc right down through the Grand Paradiso, Vanois and Dauphiné in the south. The Alps from end to end, just about.

Within the two volumes are included some of the finest, most accessible Alpine ski tours in the world – only available, of course, to the complete mountaineer. The selection covers tours in the most important Alpine regions. They are also varied in length and difficulty, although most fit within a full week’s touring. Of course, if poor weather or conditions prevail they can take a lot longer! The routes also include a mix of ‘circular’ tours, which are convenient for those wishing to leave car or equipment in one place, and ‘linear’ routes that journey hut to hut, even from country to country. These usually require a little more organisation with regard to logistics, travel and packing.

The routes described are all Alpine – in other words, they require both skiing and mountaineering skills. While technical climbing ability of a high standard is not essential, the skills required to operate on steep slopes and glacier terrain, where cramponing, ropework and crevasse rescue may be necessary, are essential for safety, as are navigational skills. It goes without saying that avalanche awareness skills and knowledge are vitally important for everyone who intends to ski mountaineer.