Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 1 Western Alps
Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 1 Western Alps
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MONT BLANC HAUTE ROUTE
No hut-to-hut traverse across the magnificent mountains and glaciers of the Mont Blanc range is likely to be straightforward. The mountains are high, the glaciers complicated and the days necessarily long. The rewards, however, are commensurate with the effort, and any ski mountaineer who completes this demanding and serious high-level tour de force will take away a lasting memory and a well-deserved glow of satisfaction.
Several big traverses have been made across the Mont Blanc massif. Some of them, not so long ago, would have been classified as ‘ski extreme’. Most were integrals connecting a series of summer grand courses, following airy snow arêtes, and involved difficult mixed climbing and descents of very steep couloirs and faces – by and large they were not ideal as ski routes, but skis made them possible at the time. They were largely one-offs, defining the possible by undertaking the seemingly imposssible. That’s just the kind of alpinism that around Chamonix is commonplace.
This tour, on the other hand, although a difficult and serious one, is within the compass of competent and acclimatised ski mountaineers. What’s more, it is a logical ski route, where skiing is the prefered option and the need to carry skis is infrequent but essential.
The main challenge of the tour is the traverse of Mont Blanc. It is avoidable, but if the route is to have any meaning as the Mont Blanc Haute Route the traverse over the summit must surely be made. The alternatives, although still enjoyable, are really second best. You can take either the bus from Chamonix to Contamines, followed by an ascent to the Conscrits Hut or, preferably, a descent of the Glacier de Toule to Entrèves followed by a slog or taxi into the Val Veni to regain the route at the Elizabetta Refuge. But without Mont Blanc the Mont Blanc Haute Route is incomplete.
It goes without saying that a high level of fitness and acclimatisation will be important factors on this tour, along with solid skills in all aspects of mountaineering – not the least judgement and route-finding. In addition, good weather and conditions are essential. This is not the kind of tour where you fall readily into the tracks of endless parties following a well-worn path. However, it does cross other well-known routes, in particular the High Level Route and the popular Vallée Blanche descent – both against the flow of whatever traffic is on them. On the other hand, as the journey progresses it leaves the well known for the untracked and infrequently travelled corners of the range, and during its course the route frequently crosses between Switzerland, France and Italy.
The route described is the purest line. If time is a key factor then instead of climbing to the Requin Hut after descending to the Mer de Glace, it is possible to descend to Chamonix and use the Aigiuille du Midi cable car to reach the Cosmiques Hut on the same day, given that the lift is running.
The Tour
Start: Champex
Finish: les Contamines Montjoie
Duration: 7 perfect days
Location: The Mont Blanc range and the route of this tour straddles three countries, Switzerland, France and Italy. The route begins in Champex, close to Martigny in the Swiss Valais, crosses the border into Haute Savoie in France and makes a brief visit to Italy before returning to Haute Savoie.
Difficulty: BSA. AD+. A high-level traverse through serious glacial terrain which includes ascents of high mountains and passes, including the traverse of Mont Blanc. TBSA – D if the most difficult options are taken.
Best Time: April–June. Ski lifts close early May. Longer days later in the season are useful but the final descent becomes more difficult. Crevasses are more evident later in the season, especially on the south side of Mont Blanc.
Facilities: There are plenty of hotels and pensions in Champex. Food and last minute equipment buys are also possible in thevillage. If the Val d’Arpette is short of snow a taxi can be taken as far as the Relais d’Arpette and saves walking up the road. If open, the Relais d’Arpette is a good place to stay.
Access: Geneva is the nearest airport from where Champex can be reached directly and easily by a combination of rail and post-bus. At the end of the tour there is bus from Contamines Montjoie to the railway station at St Gervais, and from there a train to Geneva. The whole area is well served by road, rail and bus connections.
Maps: Two IGN maps cover the complete Mont Blanc range. They are IGN Chamonix Massif du Mt Blanc 3630 OT, IGN St Gervais 3531 ET.
Route Summary
Stage 1: Champex, 1466m – Val d’Arpette – Trient Hut, 3170m
Stage 2: Trient Hut, 3170m – Aiguille du Tour, 3542m – Fenêtre de Saleina – Col du Chardonnet, 3323m – Argentière Hut, 2771m
Stage 3: Argentière Hut, 2771m – Col des Grands Montets, 3233m – Pas de Chèvre – Requin Hut, 3516m
Stage 4: Requin Hut, 2516m – Cosmiques Hut, 3613m
Stage 5: Cosmiques Hut, 3613m – Mont Blanc Traverse, 4807m – Gonella Hut, 3071m
Stage 6: Gonella Hut, 3071m – Col de la Seigne, 2516m – Aiguille des Glaciers, 3816m – Conscrits Hut, 2730m
Stage 7: Conscrits Hut, 2730m – Dômes de Miage, 3670m – les Contamines Montjoie, 1467m
Route Itinerary
Stage 1: Champex, 1466m – Val d’Arpette – Col des Ecandies, 2796m or Fenêtre du Chamois – Trient Hut, 3170m
Ascent: 1704m
Descent: 50m
Difficulty: A tiring first day involving a long climb. Avalanche danger exists in the Val d’Arpette, especially later in the day, so an early start is advised. Steep cramponing in the Couloir des Chamois or crevasses to negotiate alongside the Trient glacier’s icefall.
Principal Aspect: E, NW
Time: 5–6 hours
The delightfully situated Swiss village of Champex is the starting point of this traverse. It will be familiar to anyone who has completed the High Level Route between Chamonix and Zermatt.
From Champex follow the long Val d’Arpette to its end, climbing into the Combe des Ecandies. There is a choice of routes to reach the Trient Plateau. Either cross the Col des Ecandies and traverse to the SW around the foot of the rocks of the Petite Pointe d’Orny. Then ascend the small steep icefall, crossing several crevasses, but staying close to the rocks to reach easier ground above. Alternatively, the same point on the Trient Plateau can be reached by climbing the steep snow Couloir des Chamois, left of the Col des Ecandies, to the Fenêtre du Chamois. In good conditions this is the quickest option.
Continue SE, climbing gently to the well-positioned Trient hut.
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