Snowshoeing - Mt Blanc - Western Alps - France Switzerland Italy

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29: Emosson Lake, 1931m, Six Jeur, 2062m, and Col de la Terrasse, 2648m

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Starting point: Finhaut
Starting altitude: 1360m
Summit altitude: Emosson lake 1930m, Six Jeur 2062m, Col de la Terrasse 2648m
Altitude gain: 570m to Emosson lake, additional 132m to Six Jeur, additional 720m to Col de la Terrasse
Time: 2h30 to Emosson lake, 1h round trip from the lake to Six Jeur, 5h round trip lake to Col de la Terrasse
Grade: Emosson lake 1, Six Jeur 2, Col de la Terrasse 4
Aspect: S, SE, N
Map: 1:25,000 Carte Nationale de la Suisse 1324 Barberine; 1:50,000 Carte Nationale de la Suisse 5003 Mont Blanc Grand Combin
Public transport: Train Martigny–Finhaut–Chamonix
Access: From Martigny take the road over the Col de la Forclaz and head towards the French border at Châtelard. Just before this, look out for a road on the right to Finhaut. Take this and go up past the village following signs to Emosson. Park where the road is closed. Finhaut is also on the train route from Martigny to Chamonix, so this walk could be done without a car.

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Prior to 1920, high above the Vallorcine valley, the Barberine alpage was an area of alpine pastures and summer farms, perched opposite one of the most magnificent panoramas in the Alps. Then the Barberine dam was built, flooding well over half of the meadows. After this the higher Vieux Emosson lake was dammed in 1950, and finally the huge dam that we see today at Emosson was finished in 1975 after seven years of work. This feeds the hydro-electric station at Le Châtelard, which provides electricity in a joint Franco-Swiss operation.

It seems strange in a book of this kind to wax lyrical about a huge concrete man-made structure, but the Emosson dam really is rather fine. It is a pleasing curved wall, 180m high, holding back some millions of litres of water. It towers over the tiny hamlet of Barberine far below, creating one of the most picturesque reservoirs in the region. In winter the whole lake freezes over and breaks away from the sides, forming impressive crevasses. Many summits walks and tours exist around the dam area, but since the dam is not accessible by car in winter these tend to be quite long and arduous, and the lake itself is a good objective for a walk on snowshoes. The walk is quite long, but presents no technical difficulties. Although the ascent and descent are by the same route (the summer road) shortcuts are possible on the descent for variety and fun.

From the lake the Mont Blanc massif is seen like the backdrop to a film – from end to end with no obstructions. The splendour of the region makes this a memorable outing – not only for the views but also on account of the special feeling of this area. In some strange way there is a wildness that rather defies the huge man-made structure, hemmed in as it is with the backdrop to the north of the Tour Sallière and the Mont Ruan, the towering Aiguille du Van to the south-west, and the rugged slopes of the Bel Oiseau just above.

The small summit of Six Jeur, just above the chapel at the Col de la Geulaz, is an good objective if you still have energy and time when you reach the lake. It is much more interesting than it looks and provides an even better view, if this is possible. The route to the top takes a rising line which manages to avoid all steep ground, taking you out onto a broad shoulder and up to the top.

A much more serious objective is the Col de la Terrasse, an arduous and quite technical expedition which should not be underestimated. The Gorge de la Veudale, which is taken to reach the col, has a secretive feel, and just venturing in there is an adventure. However, sometimes it is not possible to reach the Gorge de la Veudale on snowshoes because of steep avalanche cones, and in this case it is necessary either to go on crampons or to turn back. Lack of time may also dictate a change of plan on this walk, as it is very long. Nevertheless, on the right day in the right conditions it can be fantastic. The col is on the Franco-Swiss frontier and commands a fabulous vista of the north faces of the Argentière summits – the Aiguille, Verte, the Droites, the Courtes and the Triolet, as well, of course, as Mont Blanc.

Route
Follow the snow-covered road all the way to the lake. The slopes above the road often avalanche immediately after fresh snowfall, so choose your day. There are places where you can take the summer path shortcuts, but these can be saved for the descent to allow a gentle climb up. At the lake cross the dam – this can be a little alarming if there is a build-up of snow as it is a big drop on both sides, especially on the left.

If you are heading for the Six Jeur, having visited the dam, go back up to the chapel at La Geulaz. The peak is climbed by following the line of summer track which winds around the north side of the summit to find a gentle route right to the top. It is worth going along to the cross.

To reach the Col de la Terrasse from the far side of the dam head around the lake, taking great care if the track is banked out by snow. There are sections to get round the Tête du Large that sometimes are too dangerous to cross on snowshoes. If in doubt turn back, as the consequences of a slip are serious. (It may be possible to take an easier line by descending to the lake and going along the flatter terrain there before climbing back up a small couloir before the inlet that receives the outflow (Nant de Drance) from the Vieux Emosson lake.) You will find the valley of the Gorge de la Veudale on the left. This valley begins with pleasant gentle slopes, but at the top it gets steeper and in some conditions may be too steep for snowshoes. If it is icy and hard it may be advisable to turn around here – remember you have to come back down the same way.

The gorge brings you out above the Vieux Emosson lake. It would be extremely easy to get lost here in bad visibility – or at night. Turn around here if you are not making good time at this point.

The route continues south in undulating terrain taking the easiest line, as there are few natural features here. However, electricity cables provide a useful landmark, and the Col de la Terrasse is just before the big pylon. Don’t let this put you off – the views are so fine that you’ll soon forget about these scars on the landscape. Descend by the same route.