Walking in the Dolomites
Walking in the Dolomites
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£12.95
The Dolomites
The legend of the 'Monti Pallidi' or 'Pale Mounts' as the Dolomites were first called, has it that a prince from the western slopes of the Alps longed to visit the moon. His wish was granted, and while there he fell in love with the princess of the lunar realms and brought her back to earth. Alas, she pined for the pale mounts of her homeland. Her earthly husband on the other hand would have gone blind had he stayed on the moon any longer. Luckily Providence took a hand, and a group of homeless gnomes turned up - in exchange for permission to dwell in the high mountains they wove the rays of the moon into an extremely fine white gossamer covering for the rock faces. These shone splendidly in the sun and were illuminated at sundown turning wondrous hues of pink, a phenomena known as 'enrosadira'. So the princess settled down and lived happily ever after with her earthly husband. As an extra concession she brought the famed felt-petalled edelweiss flower with her, its pale colouring reminiscent of her homeland.
The Dolomites were renamed after the French geologist Déodat de Dolomieu. As a result of his trip there in 1788, he discovered and analysed their mineral composition and differentiated between dolomite (calcium magnesium carbonate) and calcite (calcium carbonate), the two types of limestone which are the main ingredients of these mountains.
The geological origin dates back some 230 million years to when the rock was deposited in the form of marine sediments and coral in a low open sea. This material, rich in calcium carbonate, was to form the base of the mountains. Much later, around 65 million years ago, the rocks, also containing fossilised sea life, were forced and lifted high up by various tectonic events, and the Alps came into existence. It is not unusual to find fossilised shell and marine remains along the paths, but enthusiasts should not miss a visit to the Natural History Museums of Trento, Verona and Cortina d'Ampezzo. More recently - a mere 2 million years ago - the ice ages covered the mountains with successive ice sheets that on retreating sculpted out deeper valleys and lake beds, leaving immense ridges of morainic (glacial) debris. The ongoing process of weathering by snow, rain and wind has done the rest.
One widespread and easily observable phenomenon is karstification. Carbon dioxide in rainwater reacts with the limestone and partially dissolves it over time, resulting in attractive surface channelling, wave-like formations, grooved rock surfaces called karren and sink holes or dolinas. The water soaks underground, re-appearing later at the foot of slopes as powerful springs and cascades.
Walkers in the Dolomites will find themselves traversing an extraordinary array of landscapes. There are high altitude lunar-like plateaux where people are dwarfed by soaring peaks, elegant rock spires and breathtaking sheer walls. A slightly lower level means dense evergreen and deciduous forests then sweet alpine meadows and quintessential Sound of Music settings.
Due to their border location, during the First World War and the conflict between the crumbling Austro-Hungarian Empire and Italy, the Dolomite area became a war zone, with many hard fought battles contesting borders that often ran along high altitude mountain crests. Military mule tracks were constructed to supplement existing shepherds' paths for supply and accessibility and they comprise a valuable part of the network of pathways today. Remains of fortifications, trenches, barbed wire and even the occasional rusty tin can and boot sole are still seen scattered alongside paths, poignant reminders of the folly that saw more soldiers perish under avalanches and from the terrible cold than through actual combat in this harsh environment.
The aftermath of the Second World War saw many of the Dolomite villages dramatically impoverished and large-scale immigration overseas was common. Since then the whole area, like the rest of Europe, has had its own tourist boom, bringing with it an improvement in life style and secure jobs. The time has now come, however, to restrain development. Optimistic environmentalists have proposed the Dolomites for recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The region is already well trodden and problems are not unknown - yet in the midst of the degradation of the European environment the area still represents a paradise and will hopefully continue to do so with more responsible valley management as well as environment-conscious walkers.
When To Go
Because you are dependent on refuge opening periods and local bus services, not to mention weather conditions, plan on going between mid-June and late September/October. You can expect typical summer weather as blazing hot sun on exposed rock stretches, or breezes through the woods with a cool respite. However storms with poor visibility are not rare occurrences in these ranges and snow not unknown, even at the height of summer. June brings fresh spring greens, while beautiful July is the best time for the bright carpets of wild flowers in bloom, however snow can lie late in high altitude passes. August on the other hand means peak Italian holiday time around the major public holiday August 15th, bringing congested roads and heavily booked accommodation in some resort towns. September-October can be a superb time to go as you've a good chance of crisp clear days and excellent visibility without the mugginess and misty valley conditions of the summer. However days will be cooler and a little shorter (Italy goes off daylight savings end October) and there is a slight risk of early snow falls. In compensation you'll hardly meet another soul, a special bonus for popular zones such as the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Moreover the autumn colours - larches and beeches in particular - are magical. The only disadvantage is the limited number of high altitude huts open, though regions such as the hospitable Cadore, can be relied on until early November, weather permitting. Otherwise single-day itineraries are always feasible.
Walking
With a series of detailed maps and some imagination, it is possible to personalise walking trips and spend days on end in the high reaches of these marvellous mountains. The itineraries presented in this guide have been designed to introduce walkers to each of the main Dolomite groups, their unique formations and landscapes. The majority are rewarding ring routes or extended traverses linking different valleys in a journey through cultures and history, not to mention nature. A couple of days at a time are spent traversing the high reaches, with overnight stays in excellent huts. Visitors thus have the opportunity to immerse themselves in this unique atmosphere. Where relevant, there is cross referencing to enable walkers to vary or link up more itineraries, not to mention alternative exit or access routes important in emergencies or to adapt to personal circumstances. On the other hand, shorter sections can be cut off for day walks where a return to base is desired. Calculate descent time as approx. 2/3 of ascent.
In the descriptions 'track' is used for a farm lane, rough 4WD route or wide mule track, whereas 'path' means just that, a narrow pedestrians-only route. A 'road' is always surfaced.
Several abbreviations are used in the text: R (right) and L (left), then the compass bearings S (south), N (north) etc, SE (southeast), NNE (north-northeast) and so on.
For more specifically short itineraries suitable for valley-based holidays, see Shorter Walks in the Dolomites by Gillian Price (Cicerone, 2002). Otherwise for the top two magnificent official long-distance north-south traverses known as 'Alta Via' (literally 'high way') see Treks in the Dolomites. Alte Vie 1 and 2 by Martin Collins and Gillian Price (Cicerone, 2002).
Paths
Walking holidays to the Dolomites are facilitated by the extensive network of interconnecting footpaths, regularly maintained and each marked and numbered at regular intervals with painted stripes of red and white on prominent rocks, trees or signposts. Maintenance is the responsibility of the section of the Italian Alpine Club (CAI) of the nearest refuge or local valley authority. Never continue for more than half an hour without checking for waymarking. You will often come across unmarked side-tracks which are usually detours around fallen trees or muddy patches, alternatives to a difficult passage, or short cuts which can be particularly useful in descent. Follow them at your own discretion, but ensure that they do return to the main track. Areas such as the Cadore are criss-crossed with old paths still used by hunters, woodcutters or mushroom collectors. CAI junctions are mostly signposted. Faint paths across scree slopes and alongside torrents are often erased during spring melt, so expect to hunt around a little. On bare terrain such a stony plateau, in the absence of permanent landmarks for waymarking, stones are often heaped into cairns to mark a route.
Difficulty
This depends on the type of terrain involved, along with exposure and length, not to mention atmospheric conditions at the time. The walks described in this guide have been graded for overall difficulty as followed:
-
Grade 1 - clear tracks and paths across straightforward terrain, suitable for beginners.
- Grade 2 - moderate difficulty necessitating a reasonable level of fitness and care on typical rocky alpine terrain.
- Grade 3 - strenuous steep climbs and descents involved, possible exposed stretches, experience preferable.
Note: several itineraries include moderately exposed passages aided by a cable fixed to the rock face. While none belong to the aided climbing category of vie ferrate necessitating special equipment, they should be approached with due care and only attempted by people who do not suffer from vertigo. Avoid having two people on the same stretch of cable at the same time, and keep well clear of fixtures when a thunder storm is threatening as the ironmongery is a perfect lightning conductor.
Timing
The total walking time given in each walk heading is for a person of average fitness, and is based on 1 hour to cover 4-5km on level ground, approx. 300 metres uphill, or 500 metres downhill, depending of course on gradient and terrain. Time out for rest or photo stops is NOT included so remember to add an hour or so onto each day's load, depending on your rate.
A day of 4-5 hours walking (excluding stops) is probably quite sufficient for the average walker without rushing and allowing extra time to look around and having energy enough to go on the next day!
Ascent/Descent
Dolomite walking distances are measured in terms of height gain and loss, in other words how much you climb and drop during a walk. This essential information is given in each walk headings, and is a very useful pointer to the nature of the route. At times it can even be more important than the timing. For example a walk entailing 500 metres ascent would make a suitable starter, while one of 1500 metres in better left until you've found your 'mountain legs' and breath. The distance covered in the walk is also given, in both kilometres and miles, though it is of less importance than ascent/descent, and is only approximate in view of difficulties entailed in measurement.
Altitude
Measured in metres above sea level for key points during walks (nb 100 metres = 328 feet), this is abbreviated in the text as m, not to be confused with minutes or min.
Some Important Dos and Don'ts:
Read the walk description carefully beforehand to get an idea of what to expect and select an itinerary that suits your state of fitness. Don't over estimate your capabilities and pace walking for the slowest member of the group. Reaching a high altitude refuge at 10 o'clock at night may be the most unforgettable experience on a walking holiday and a great story for telling at dinner parties, but had the weather taken a turn for the worse or your headlamp batteries gone flat, it would have made the newspapers instead. Don't take risks. Always plan your walk so as to arrive at your destination in daylight and with time to spare, to allow for unforeseen circumstances. Then by all means settle down with a beer and enjoy the views, giving your system time to recuperate from the strains of the day and prepare for the day after. Carry extra food and drink at all times. Don't set out alone on tracks that are particularly long or not well trodden or known.
Never start out on a walk when weather is uncertain, particularly if you plan on a high altitude route advice on weather forecasts along with path conditions can always be obtained from the nearest refuge. Remember that an easy Grade 1 path can become problematic in adverse weather conditions and low visibility. Daily forecasts are usually posted at huts and tourist offices, though you may need to ask for an explanation in English. Should there be an electrical storm, keep away from metallic fixtures and remove any personal metal objects and put them in a heap with your walking stocks away from you. Don't shelter under trees or overhanging rocks, and at worst curl up on the ground to avoid attracting the lightning.
Do take all your rubbish back down to the valley where you carried it from. Don't expect refuge or park staff to waste time and valuable resources on waste transportation. Respect all nature areas, as well as prescribed parks and reserves. Don't pick any wild flowers or light fires. Refrain from straying from public paths to avoid damaging vegetation and causing erosion. For toilet stops along the way, avoid areas near natural water courses, and if toilet paper is unavoidable, bury it, so nothing unsightly is left. Preferably wait to use the facilities in the next hut. Don't use caves, overhangs or abandoned huts as they may be essential as shelter for someone else in bad weather! Leave only footprints.
Last but not least, do greet the walkers you meet on the path. The Italians always do and typical greetings are buon giorno (good morning) or the informal ciao (hello) between friends. You will usually get a Grüss Gott (sounding a bit like 'scot') from German-speaking walkers, if not Guten Morgen (good morning) or Guten Tag (good day).
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