Walking in the Dolomites
Walking in the Dolomites
Price
£12.95
11- Croda da Lago - Pelmo Route
Walking time: 12hr - 2-3 days
Walk distance: 31.7km/19.8 miles
Difficulty: Grade 2
Ascent/descent: 1700m/1900m
Map: Tabacco n.03 and n.025 scale 1:25,000
Start: Hotel Tiziano, Campo di Sotto (Zuel)
Finish: Borca di Cadore
According to legend it was on the sunny slopes facing the Croda da Lago mountain above Cortina that the first larch trees took root. Dwarves created them using the masses of beautiful flowers sent to the wedding celebrations of the local queen who reigned over the wood and the water spirits. The fact that the larch, unlike other conifers, is not evergreen but deciduous, is explained by the fact that it was made from such a variety of plants, incorporating their different qualities. Furthermore, the delicate light green covering the tree generates in spring is the bridal veil draped over the blooms during the festivities to prevent them drying out.
A marvellous and straightforward walk well within the capabilities of average walkers, this one leads through cool woods, across rolling upland pasture and beneath awesome Dolomite formations in the Cortina district, dropping in at a number of exemplary refuges for memorable overnight stops.
Sights range from Cortina's verdant valley to the line-up with the Sorapiss and Antelao, then the memorable neighbouring Civetta and Pelmo giants. The latter is often referred to as the 'throne of the Almighty' or the 'Doge's cap' by patriotic Venetians, and is partially circled in this itinerary, giving walkers the chance to appreciate the dramatic faces it presents from different angles. A special bonus comes in the form of a detour to examine an intriguing series of fossilised dinosaur footprints. The walk can easily be adapted into shorter sections using the multiple accesses and exits given where relevant. Walk 12 describes a more arduous Pelmo itinerary in a complete circle of the mountain, and is easy to slot into during the early part of Stage Three of this walk.
Access: Cortina is well served by year-round coaches from all directions. Campo di Sotto and a spread of camping grounds lies on the valley floor just below the village of Zuel (which boasts the historic ski jump dating back to the 1956 Winter Olympics), on the SS 51 a couple of kilometres S of Cortina. Local n.1 bus runs all the way down to Campo di Sotto and the Hotel Tiziano, where the walk starts.For the alternative access via Pocol, use the local bus or the summer Dolomiti Bus bound for Passo Falzarego. The exits at Borca or San Vito in the same valley are served by the year-round Dolomiti Bus line. On the other hand Passo Staulanza at the head of Val di Zoldo, in Stage Three, has a summer Dolomiti Bus service between Longarone and Val Fiorentina.STAGE ONE: To Rif. Palmieri (3hr)
From Hotel Tiziano (1127m) go L (S) up the signposted jeep track (n.432), asphalted for a short stretch. You pass turn-offs to Lago Pianozes then Lago d’Aial (both with attractive lakeside chalets-cum-restaurants), and soon a barrier to unauthorised vehicles. Winding steadily S upwards through the woods, steeply at times, it has several walkers-only short cuts but also many confusing logging vehicle side tracks, so always make sure you are actually back on the main track (red and white waymarking is frequent).
About halfway up, with cascades nearby, the track crosses the Rio Federa watercourse, then goes on to grazing meadows and the summertime dairy-farm-cum-eatery Malga Federa (1816m). This is a scenic and photographic vantage point over the Cortina area and, as the story goes, site of an ancient castle, its subterranean cavern housing a marvellous jewel – the Rajetta (see Walk 5) – guarded of course by a terrible dragon. Many were the courageous cavaliers who sacrificed their young lives for their beloved in vain attempts to gain the jewel…
The magnificent Croda da Lago mountain is visible ahead W, and some 200m more in easy ascent will see you at cosy family-run Rif. Palmieri (2046m) on the shores of pretty Lago Federa. The comfortable hut was constructed pre World War I, and since 1919, when the region was transferred to Italian rule, it has belonged to the Cortina section of the Alpine Club, who named it in honour of a partisan from Bologna. It is a great spot for a rest, invigorating swim in the lake or overnight stay.
Alternative access from Pocol (1hr 45min)
A fair bit shorter and saving a good 400m of ascent, the route from Pocol (1530m) begins on the Passo Giau road SW. Some 20min (1.5km) along n.434 strikes off L to cross the Rio Costeana stream, said to be the haunt of the mythical Anguana water women who would counsel local people on their most pressing problems if sought out. The path narrows and climbs steadily through wood. In the vicinity of a rustic wood bridge and a crystal clear stream with a gushing cascade, not to mention a log cabin, Cason di Formin (1885m), n.437 is joined.
Continuing S from Malga Prendera the path number becomes n.458. It traverses detritic ground and across a brief valley bottom to the next small forcella and crest, Col Roan, then it is n.467 the rest of the way. There are further changes in terrain as well as scenery as the track passes Forcella de la Puina at 2034m and bears SW towards more grazing land, descending gradually along grassy flanks. Late summer walkers will be rewarded with fruitful bilberry patches here. With a final curve around to the L the path comes down to Rif. Città di Fiume at 1918m.
While ‘fiume’ also means ‘river’ in Italian, here it refers to the former Italian name for the Croatian port town of Rijeka, part of Italy until post-World War II agreements. Nostalgic former residents keep the memory alive through their club branch and sole remaining refuge – photos of other huts once run by the section can be seen inside. The refuge stands at the head of the picturesque pastoral Val Fiorentina. More importantly however, it is right in front of the imposing northwestern wall of the Pelmo. Cows from nearby dairy farms roam around quite freely, often eating rubbish and whatever they can get their teeth into, so watch out for your washing! A further warning concerns the lethal line-up of fiery home brewed grappa served here, and flavoured with everything from bitter gentian root to bilberries.
Exit route: A farm lane drops to the road in Val Fiorentina in about 45min. Another branch heads W via Rif. Aquileia (and camping ground). Both are handy for bus stops.
STAGE THREE: To Passo Staulanza (1hr 30min) then Rif. Venezia (2hr 30min)
This whole stage follows n.472. Head down from the refuge S to cross the stream, continuing along a brief wooded flank to the lower fringe of the frontal scree spread of the Pelmo. Here the yawning scree expanse of Val d’Arcia opens up, its permanent snow-field higher up, beneath the 3168m summit. The path curves around SW, crosses a zone of low mountain pine then climbs to a crest over the road. Unless you wish to overnight at the lovely family-run refuge and savour its home-made gnocchi with smoked ricotta topping, it is not necessary to drop right down to Passo Staulanza (1766m), as the path originating there soon joins n.472.
Note: fit walkers with some experience can slot into the extremely rewarding Pelmo Tour – Walk 12, by breaking off E to ascend Val d’Arcia at the n.480 fork about 45min from Rif. Città di Fiume.
In gradual ascent, around 1hr from Passo Staulanza below the SW corner of the Pelmetto (little Pelmo) is a fork L for the detour to the ‘Orme’ the fossilised dinosaur tracks. A surprising 100 separate prints were captured in erstwhile tropical tidal flats as the sea retreated and calcareous deposits filled them in, preserving them for subsequent fossilisation and posterity. Identified as belonging to three different small dinosaurs living something like 200 million years ago, the tracks are clearly visible on the massive fallen rock slab that luckily detached itself. Allow an extra 30min for the return walk on the narrow path, slippery after rain and steep in parts, but well worth the effort.
From here on the way is still known by its old name of Triol dei Cavai, from when it was used for taking horses up to grazing. Climbing gradually the path coasts in a southerly direction through lightly wooded areas, and there are several clearings where you get superb panoramas up to the Pelmo itself as well as the Civetta’s unmistakable mass SW over the valley. Then, as well as muddy tracts, there are a couple of path junctions including n.474 to Palafavera (30min in descent to two handy private refuges, camping ground, summer bus and link to Casera di Pioda on the Civetta – see Walk 13). Curving around E, the track crosses the Le Mandre pasture area.
The last stretch N runs much closer to the dramatic SE rock wall of the Pelmo, and drops to cross a stream prior to a final climb to Passo Rutorto and a final ridge to be crossed before Rif. Venezia (1947m).
The very first Italian refuge in the Dolomites, work of the historic Venice section of the Alpine Club in 1892, the spacious establishment occupies an enviable position, looking across the Antelao and rugged Marmarole. The Pelmo itself should turn an interesting shade of pink–orange in the morning, should you happen to secure a bedroom on that side to see it. Don’t miss their scrumptious home-made cakes.
STAGE FOUR: Descent to Borca di Cadore (2hr 30min)
While not strictly the shortest way back to the Boite valley to complete the round trip (see the following variant for the more direct route), this path scores well on scenery. Leave Rif. Venezia and go back to Passo Rutorto to turn L (SE) along the gentian-studded ridge and n.475 via the modest weather station. After an excellent Pelmo viewing spot, the descent begins down earth banks and across fields. Waymarking is in the form of small red and white painted metal plaques nailed to trees, and takes you gradually down past ruins of farm buildings and across an open cleared grazing area with marshy tracts crossed by small wooden trunk bridges. More wood with shy roe deer, then it’s out at a dairy farm Casera de Ciauta at 1552m, about halfway down.
A rough driveable track n.477 turns off R for Vodo, however n.475 heads off NE through dense woods once more, with occasional spectacular views of the dazzling white mountains straight ahead – namely triangular-shaped Antelao, and Sorapiss furthest L. A rough track is joined for the final stretch before a surfaced road is encountered just before Villanova, then where you go R and across the River Boite for Borca di Cadore (960m) with shops, buses and so on.
Variant descent to San Vito di Cadore (2hr)
Although slightly more direct and faster, the disadvantage of this route is its very steep gradient which makes it more tiring. It doubles as a forestry track and is used by the refuge’s occasional jeep taxi service. After the meadows surrounding the refuge, n.470 descends more steeply and mostly follows the course of a stream, with worthwhile raspberry patches about the middle stretch. Fir and larch woods inhabited by small dark squirrel-like dormice and roe deer become thicker with the descent. You descend to a junction and bridge (n.468 L connects with Forcella Forada and R. Città di Fiume in 2hr 30min). Keep R on n.470, then fork off L. This leads through the houses of Serdes, whereafter a surfaced road takes you across the river to San Vito di Cadore (1062m).
Facilities:
Tourist Office Cortina Tel: 0436-3231/2711
Tourist Office San Vito di Cadore Tel: 0436-9119
Tourist Office Zoldo Alto Tel: 0437-789145
Rif. Città di Fiume Tel: 0437-720268 CAI, sleeps 25, open 20/6–20/9
Rif. Monte Pelmo (Palafavera) Tel: 0437-789359 private, sleeps 8, open mid-June to end Sept
Rif. Palafavera Tel: 0437-789133 private, sleeps 24, open mid-June to mid-Sept
Rif. Palmieri Tel: 0436-862085 CAI, sleeps 35, open 15/6–30/9 then Oct weekends
Rif. Passo Staulanza Tel: 0437-788566 private, sleeps 30, open 10/6–30/9
Rif. Venezia Tel: 0436-9684 CAI, sleeps 75, open 20/6–20/9
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