Rock Climbs In The Pyrenees

The best of the rock climbing in the Pyrenees is detailed in this guidebook. There are 500m routes on immaculate andesite on the Pic du Midi d'Ossau; 300m routes on hard sandstone in the canyon of Ordesa; whilst the 300m conglomerate climbs on the towers and walls of Riglsos are mind-blowing. Also delicate slab climbing on limestone at the popular Santa Elena.

View Sample Route Map

15. The Sud-Est. TD- 400m. *** (see diagram p38)

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1st Ascent: 8th May 1953 - André Armengaud and Jean Ravier.

The so called ‘classical route.’ A tremendous outing; easily the most repeated; not to be missed.

The climb traverses across the wall to gain the ‘grande dièdre,’ follows this and then returns along the arête to the summit of the Aiguillette Jolly.

Start. As for R13.
1, 2) As for R14.
3) 30m. 4a. Traverse right and go through the bulge at a break to reach easy ledges running right.
4) 35m. Traverse easily right to a wide crack.
5) 30m. 5a. Climb the crack and smooth slab to a belay on the right.
6) 25m. 4b. The ‘escaliers gris’ (‘grey stairs’ - well seen from the ground) lead to the foot of a fine dièdre.
7) 30m. 5a. 8) 25m. 4c. Climb the dièdre to a vast terrace.
9, 10) 80m. 4b. From the right-hand end of the terrace climb the obvious dièdre by the easiest line, sometimes the right-hand arête, to a good platform.
11) 25m. 4b. Climb the groove and cracks above to a jammed block in the left wall and use this to traverse round the corner to a smooth ledge system.
12) 25m. 4c. Go diagonally left up the ledges to a short, wide crack in a steep wall and climb it to a sloping stance.
13) 25m. 5a. Continue up the crack for a short way to a good ledge which leads right to the arête where a delicate wall gives access to easy ground in a vast couloir.
14, 15) 80m. 4a. Climb the chimney up on the left and follow it and the left arête to the summit of the Aiguillette Jolly.

16. The Sud-Est Direct. ED- 350m. ***

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1st Ascent: 2-4th May 1964 - Paul Bouchet and Jean and Pierre Ravier.

A magnificent and difficult route. It has several aid sections but has been climbed free.

Start. Half-way between the ordinary route and the lowest point of the wall, at two large flakes.
Climb between the flakes and continue via a crack leaning to the left and a chimney leaning to the right to the easy traverse of the Sud-Est, pitch 4. Continue directly for two pitches to gain a magnificent dièdre which is climbed in three pitches. Descend a little to the right to gain a large couloir which goes to the right of three stepped overhangs.

Follow the couloir for one pitch to the level of a yellow wall, traverse left to a crack, climb it and then come back right to dièdres which lead to less steep ground. Continue direct to the summit of the Aiguillette Jolly.