The John Muir Trail - A Trekker's Guide
The John Muir Trail
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Day 1 - Yosemite Valley (Happy Isles) to Half Dome Trail Junction/Sunrise Creek and the Ascent of Half Dome
Total distance of stage: 12.3 miles
Cumulative distance from Yosemite: 12.3 miles
Total ascent for stage: 5000ft
Total descent for stage: 1850ft
Cumulative ascent from Yosemite: 5000ft
Cumulative descent from Yosemite: 1850ft
Map: Harrison Map Sheet 13
The first day on the Trail is one of the best of the whole trip, not because of the John Muir Trail itself, but for the ascent of Yosemite’s most famous mountain, the spectacular Half Dome. The climb to the summit does not form part of the JMT, but it would be a great pity for any lover of the high mountains to walk on past without experiencing the exhilaration of the sensational but aided climb and enjoying the stupendous views of Yosemite from its summit. From Yosemite Valley the peak looks out of bounds to the ordinary mountain walker, but this trail goes ‘round the back’ of the mountain, from where an ascent is more realistic for the non-climber. The climb to the top of Half Dome is not for the faint-hearted, and those who cannot cope with a fair degree of exposure should not be tempted to try for the summit.
The ascent of Half Dome will be enough for one day for most walkers, and so a camp is suggested only a little distance after the JMT/Half Dome trail junction. Those not attempting Half Dome should be able to reach Tuolumne Meadows from Yosemite Valley in two days, as indeed could fit and experienced long-distance hikers who include Half Dome. However, to rush through the outstanding landscape of the Yosemite National Park is to miss the point of the JMT. Moreover, this is only the very beginning of your epic journey through the High Sierras, so trail fitness will not yet have been achieved, and the wise will wish to avoid over-exertion at this stage.
From the backpackers’ camping area in Yosemite Valley Campsite (note that only in an emergency is more than one night allowed at this campsite), or wherever you spent the night in Yosemite, walk or take the bus to Happy Isles. From the bus stop cross the bridge and follow the signpost for the Mist trail. Soon reach some floodgates on the right and continue on the path climbing to the left, marked to Half Dome and the Vernal Falls. Within 100yds or so reach a comprehensive signboard which shows the distances to various points, including 211 miles to Mount Whitney on the JMT. The good path climbs steadily. After about a mile cross a wooden bridge over a boulder-strewn river with a waterfall (the Vernal Falls) above to the left. On the far side of the bridge is a water fountain, the last safe water until Whitney Portal it is said (although this is not strictly true, as good water is to be found in Tuolumne Meadows and at Vermilion resort and a few other places). There are toilets here.
About 5mins later there is a trail junction: ahead is the Mist trail but the JMT climbs to the right, signposted to Tuolumne Meadows 26.8 miles. After another couple of minutes ignore the trail down to the right (for stock only) and follow the path ahead signposted to Nevada Falls 2.5 miles and Merced Lake 12.4 miles. Keep to this popular and well-constructed path as it zig-zags slowly upwards along the side of the canyon wall. Eventually the plunge and water slide of the Nevada Falls comes into view, and several giant granite peaks produce numerous photo opportunities. Continue on the path to Nevada Falls. Cross the wooden footbridge over the top of the falls and continue to a toilet block on the left of the Trail. Continue on the Trail for about another mile to Little Yosemite Valley Camping Ground. This is the first area since leaving Yosemite Valley that one is allowed to camp. If you wish to call it a day here then bear to the right for about another 10mins or so to the backpackers’ campground. Merced Lake is also reached by going to the right at this junction. But for the JMT, bear to the left following the signpost to Half Dome.
Pass the path signposted to the rangers station and continue to climb until you come to the JMT/Half Dome Trail Junction. Here a most important decision will have to be taken: whether to take the side-trail to climb Half Dome, or to omit it and continue along the JMT. Your decision will be influenced by such factors as the time at which you reach this junction, the fitness of your party, the amount of food that you are carrying, the weather conditions and the ability of the party to cope with the extremely steep granite slopes of Half Dome. Allow 2½–3hrs minimum for the round trip from this trail junction to the summit of Half Dome and return, or more if you want to spend some time on the summit admiring this fantastic viewpoint.
JMT hikers will no doubt wish to leave their heavy sacs at this junction whilst attempting the climb. However, there are two important considerations here. Leave food only if it is in bear barrels, or else your backpack is in danger of being severely damaged by bears and your food lost; in addition you will risk a fine from the rangers for feeding these animals. Secondly, take your valuables with you. There are many day-trippers in this popular area, and stolen gear could be heading out of the park by car within a couple of hours of this point; alas you are not in true wilderness yet!
The ascent of Half Dome needs little description. Easy walking on a good path through trees leads to some easy scrambling over rocks, which in turn leads to the base of the summit peak. The climb from here is extremely steep over smooth, polished rock. However, the ascent is aided by a fixed cableway. A pile of thick gloves will be found at the foot of the climb. Do not attempt the climb without the use of these gloves, as not only will your hands be blistered by the cable, but a fall would be difficult to halt with bare hands. Climb between the two cables. Your arms will no doubt ache for days afterwards from all the exertions of pulling upwards on the cables. Those suffering from a fear of heights should not attempt the climb. The fixed cables are erected at the start of the summer hiking season and taken down usually in early October. Do not attempt the climb if the cables are not in place.
After climbing Half Dome (or not, as the case may be) pick up your full pack once again and continue along the JMT. After about 5mins or so there are some possible places to camp about 50yds off the trail to the right. Although this spot is not ideal, because water is another 5mins or so (about ¼ mile) further along the trail, it is the recommended place to spend the night.
There is a wonderful view from this campsite back to Half Dome, climbed earlier this afternoon, and it is thus a fitting spot to end a great day, your first along the JMT. The two or three 5-minute journeys for water are, after the toil of the day, no real further hardship.
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