Walking in Croatia

Walks and multi-day treks through the best of Croatia’s mountains including the Dinaric Alps (Gorski Kotar and Velebit), Istria, Croatia’s islands and around Zagreb. Ranging from easy to hard, the routes introduce this outstandingly rugged walking destination. Full background, history, cultural, accommodation and planning information.

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C The Dinaric Alps - Gorski kotar

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Risnjak, Snjeznik and Hahlic
The following straightforward itinerary takes you via the peaks of Risnjak (1528m) and Snjeznik (1506m), each with an excellent planinarski dom, and on to PD Hahlic, from where the route descends to the village of Drazice, 11km from Rijeka. Side-trips to adjacent peaks are possible from Snjeznik (Guslica, 1490m) and Hahlic

Gorski kotar is the name given to the great crescent-shaped range of mountains stretching down from Slovenia in the north, encompassing Risnjak and Snjeznik (both of which lie within Risnjak National Park), together with Bjelolasica, Bijele stijene and Samarske stijene further south (an area collectively known as Velika Kapela). The terrain consists of rolling, forested hills riddled with limestone dells, and bald, rocky peaks rising to a maximum of 1534m (Kula, on Bjelolasica). In some areas, the limestone formations are outstanding (Bijele stijene and Samarske stijene). As the most heavily forested part of Croatia, Gorski kotar is the area where you are most likely to see brown bear tracks, although you are very unlikely to see the animal itself. The extensive beech and mountain pine also provides a natural habitat for wild pig, roe and red deer. The lynx was hunted to extinction in Risnjak during the nineteenth century, but returned in the 1970s after migrating from Slovenia.

The gateway to Gorski kotar is the town of Delnice, which can be reached from either Zagreb or Rijeka by train. Try to get the earliest service from Zagreb (called the ‘Rijeka’, which leaves around 0600). The bus station, for services to the trailheads for Bjelolasica and Risnjak, is on the main road, opposite the long flight of steps descending from the railway station. There are a few shops in Delnice where you can get most supplies (in particular, left from the bus station, just after the road forks to the left), but you would do better not to rely completely on these and to stock up in Zagreb.

Delnice was a major centre of Partisan resistance during the Second World War, an episode of history reflected in such local landmarks as Matic poljana on the route to Bjelolasica.

(Suhi vrh, 1335m; Fratar, 1353m; Obruc, 1376m) and numerous other points along the way. The route has been broken down into four stages, making the most of the accommodation at Risnjak and Snjeznik, although the route could be covered in fewer.

Risnjak (from ris, ‘lynx’) and Snjeznik (from snijeg, ‘snow’) are two of the most attractive areas of Gorski kotar. The national park boundary was recently extended to just west of Snjeznik, and you will have to buy a ticket to cover the time you stay in the park. This is easy enough - simply pay for a ticket at the first hut you stay at and hang onto it until you leave the park.

Maps: SMAND covers the area in a single sheet: Gorski kotar IV (14). Also of interest is the new NP Risnjak sheet, covering the areas of Risnjak and Snjeznik; this is available from huts in the area if you are unable to find it in Zagreb. The old Gorski kotar planinarska karta, produced in Slovenia, gives good coverage of the whole massif at 1:100,000 and may still be available at some huts in the area.

Transport: The traditional approach for Risnjak has always been from the small village of Crni Lug. However, this can be difficult to reach without your own transport, and the alternative approach from Gornje Jelenje is therefore preferable. From Delnice, take a southbound bus to Gornje Jelenje and jump off at the pass (881m), opposite the turn-off to Crikvenica and Krk. (Note that instead of travelling via this road, a number of southbound buses now follow the new motorway to Rijeka. Buses travelling on the motorway will not take you to Gornje Jelenje.)

Walk 4 - Stage 1: Gornje Jelenje - PD Risnjak via Vilje and Medvjeda vrata

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Time: 2hrs 20mins
Distance: 8.5km
Max. altitude: 1418m
Rating: easy
Map: SMAND Gorski kotar IV (14)

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Follow the broad forest road opposite the Crikvenica turn-off, passing a large national park sign (‘Nacionalni park Risnjak’), keeping straight ahead and not turning off to the right. The road ascends, winding up through the forest, with intermittent trail markings starting after passing the turn-off to Platak on the left. Ignore all routes off to the right and left, however tempting they may look, continuing on the main forest road to reach Vilje in 1hr 20mins. Here you turn right onto a track clearly marked ‘Medvjeda vrata and Risnjak’, taking first one and then another right fork after 10mins. Ascend on a steep, rocky path to reach Medvjeda vrata (‘bear pass’ or ‘gateway of the bears’) in a further 20mins. There is a nice, airy view from this point, to which a path leads up through the forest from Crni Lug.

Continue along the trail from Medvjeda vrata, following the signs to PD Risnjak, which comes into view after about 20mins, as you round a final, rocky bluff. Continue, descending briefly before reaching the hut itself in less than 10mins.

PD Risnjak, originally known as Schlosserov dom after the botanist Josip Schlosser (1808-82), is a picturesque sight, perched upon a grassy saddle and nestled below the mountain pine and juniper-clad peak of Risnjak itself, with forested slopes dropping away on either side. There is a well behind the hut, and a skloniste (just inside the main door) is open through the winter, when the hut itself is closed.

Recommended Trip

PD Risnjak - Vrh Risnjak - PD Risnjak

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Time: 30mins return
Distance: 0.5km
Max. altitude: 1528m
Rating: easy-moderate
Map: SMAND Gorski kotar IV (14)

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Follow the path behind the hut, ascending steeply through dwarf mountain pine and scrambling over rock, with views back down over the hut and saddle, and to a particularly cavernous doline on the right, to reach Vrh Risnjak (1528m) in 15mins. Snjeznik is clearly visible to the northwest, and the sea beyond. Descend by the same route.