The Southern Upland Way - A Walker's Guidebook

Guidebook to the Southern Upland Way, Scotland’s Coast-to-Coast Walk. It runs for 212 miles (341km) from picturesque Portpatrick on the west coast across the Galloway and Border Hills to Cockburnspath on the east. The route passes through remote and romantic country and would fill a two-week walking holiday.

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STAGE 4

Bargrennan to St John’s Town of Dalry

24.3 miles (39.1km)

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Alternatives

Firstly a warning. The stage from Bargrennan to Dalry is a very long one, crossing remote country through the Galloway hills, with few roads and no facilities save a bothy at White Laggan about 18km (11.2 miles) from Bargrennan. Be sure to take adequate food and drink and an early start is essential in order to avoid being
benighted, particularly outside the period between May and mid-August when the days are shorter. This stage is followed by an even longer one and only the fit and experienced should attempt these two consecutive days.

Stages 4 and 5 are given as stated in this guidebook because Bargrennan, Dalry and Sanquhar are the only places where accommodation and food and drink may be obtained on the route. However, those unsure of their ability to walk such long distances have a very feasible option. These two long stages can be broken down into three shorter sections that are more manageable to walk over a three-day period. If a friend cannot help with the necessary transport arrangements for this plan then help is on hand from a commercial company based in Dalry.

Southern Upland Way Ltd (Southernuplandway.com) offers vehicle support and baggage transfer services over the whole of the SUW, but they are of particular use in
overcoming the long section between Bargrennan and Sanquhar. The company will pick up walkers near Clatteringshaws Loch after a walk of approximately 26.2km (16.3 miles) taking them to overnight accommodation in Dalry and returning them to the same point the next morning. The second day is spent walking from here
via Dalry to Stroanpatrick, a distance of about 25.4km (15.8 miles). A second pick-up from here and another overnight in Dalry with a return journey back to
Stroanpatrick the following morning, for the last stage to Sanquhar, a distance of around 30.5km (18.9 miles).

The vehicle `Pick-Up Points’ are identified by wooden plaques on SUW signposts (see under `Route’ for Stages 4 and 5). Details are as follows:

Pick-Up Point 1: Craigenbay (1 kilometre north of Clatteringshaws Loch, West of Dalry), grid reference NX 543789, usually at 5pm. Overnight accommodation in St
John’s Town of Dalry. Walkers are dropped off, usually at 9.30am, the next morning at Craigenbay. They are then collected that evening, usually at around 6pm, at
Pick-Up Point 2: Stroanpatrick, grid reference NX 642918 on the B 729, for another night in Dalry. The next morning, usually at 8.30pm, walkers are returned to
Stroanpatrick for the now manageable section along the SUW to Sanquhar.

The first few miles of this stage from Bargrennan are completely different from the original line of the SUW, making this the most significant of the route realignments
along the whole of the route from west to east coast. The original route was a fairly direct line on a forest track eastward to the Holm of Bargrennan, but it became unsuitable because of the intensity of commercial forestry operations and so was closed in 2001. A major new routing replaced it around the edge of the forest, following the banks of the River Cree and the Water of Minnoch. The new route is about 3.4km (2.1 miles) in length, longer than the original route, but a definite improvement on the original plod through the forest.

From time to time, usually during the wetter winter months, the River Cree and Water of Minnoch overflow their banks. Under these conditions the only safe and viable route is an alternative trail via Glentrool Village and Stroan Bridge Visitor Centre & Tea Room to the Twin Bridges of Trool where the standard route is joined. Details of this alternative route will be found on the SUW Information Board at the point where the SUW emerges onto the A714 at Bargrennan.

Summary

The stage starts with pleasant riverside walking following the River Cree, the Water of Minnoch and finally the Water of Trool to the western end of Loch Trool. From
here the Way passes between the Galloway Hills, firstly on a steeply undulating path above the Loch, amongst trees but with many glimpses of the Loch and surrounding mountains. There follows another relatively new section of the SUW, up an open hillside on an ancient path that provides some of the best views on all
of the Southern Upland Way. The effort of the climb on this new mountain path route is rewarded with superb mountain views. To the north lies Merrick, the highest hill in Scotland outside the Highlands, and the large wilderness area of the Ridge of the Awful Hand; to the north-east is the Corbett of Corserine topping the Rhinns
of Kells mountain range, whilst to the south the giants of Lamachan and Curleywee will be seen. Although the ascent is wet & boggy in places, particularly after rain,
the line of this new route of the SUW offers spectacular views and is a tremendous improvement on the original line, which followed the track through the trees seen below.

Easier walking follows on tracks for several miles, but the area is still highly scenic, passing Loch Dee with the possibility of a night in a bothy at White Laggan.
More track walking leads to the very large Clatteringshaws Loch whose northern shore is followed for a short distance before the Way takes to the hills again. The route heads northwards for a while, first through forestry plantations and then over open hillsides beneath the mountain of Meikle Millyea on the southern edge of the Rhinns of Kells. An easy section follows, gradually descending on a track, then a minor road before tackling the `sting in the tail’ of this long stage, an ascent of Waterside Hill, from whose summit there is a birdseye view down to St John’s Town of Dalry, your friendly destination for the night. This route over Waterside Hill is not the original line of the SUW, which went more to the south avoiding the hill. Again this is an improvement on the original route providing an excellent viewpoint, although
weary long-distance walkers who have travelled all the way from Bargrennan in the day may think that Waterside was maybe just a `hill too far’! Dalry is a veritable metropolis with all you may require in terms of a variety of accommodation, shops and pubs.

Route

From your place of lodging return to the SUW signpost on the A 714 on the north side of the bridge over the River Cree. Take the delightful path alongside the east
bank of this river. The path, which soon climbs above the river, is usually well maintained, which is fortunate, as if the extensive vegetation were not cut back frequently it would soon become overgrown. Cross a minor road (stone bridge on right) and continue ahead. Soon after crossing this road the path takes leave of the
River Cree by turning left and climbing steeply eastwards to reach a forest track, where the Way turns to the right. On meeting a road turn left for 20m (not straight ahead into vegetation as the badly placed signpost has encouraged many people to do!) and then turn right onto a gravel track. Leave the track after five minutes or so onto a thin waymarked path, now alongside the Water of Minnoch. This lovely woodland path meanders northeast along the north-western bank of the river, through open glades offering views of the surrounding Forest Park and the Galloway Hills, before crossing a high stone stile, re-entering woodland and turning north-westwards. Soon after the white buildings of Holm are seen over the river to the right the trail crosses a footbridge and resumes the original line of the SUW at a track.

Turn right to cross the bridge over the River Minnoch. Jimmy Macgregor was here for filming when the SUW opened in 1984. The nearby `Poachers’ Road’ is renowned as a favourite haunt of otters. Turn immediately left on a path with the river now on your left. The path follows this very picturesque stretch of river to reach
a Water of Trool Information Board at a path junction. This is the Twin Bridges of Trool where those who chose the alternative route via Glentrool Village and Stroan
Bridge Visitor Centre & Tea Room will re-join the SUW. Turning left here would take you to a footbridge over the river, but the SUW continues ahead, now following the
south bank of the Water of Trool. The mighty Galloway Hills dominate the landscape hereabouts. A good path, which the SUW shares with a local route (yellow stripe waymarks), leads up Glen Trool to the site of Caldons Camp Site, now sadly closed, at the western end of Loch Trool.

The SUW now heads along a grassy and wooded area to the south of Loch Trool. Follow the signpost for the SUW and Loch Trool Trail alongside the Water of Trool. After an initial flat section the forest trail climbs high above the loch, which is eventually seen down to the left. The path then descends almost to the lochside. This is quite a steeply undulating and rather exhausting path, but it does provide good views of the loch and the mountains that tower above the water, as it and you make your way to the east end of the loch. The Trail, alas, then climbs even higher as it continues to a SUW Information Board and footbridge.

From this point the original route of the Southern Upland Way took to the track here, a rather mundane plod to Loch Dee. However the new and much improved line of the Way makes use of an old footpath over open hillside to the north-east and so doing provides excellent views back to Loch Trool, to the Merrick and other Hills of the Galloway Forest Park. If weather conditions are dire then the wise would opt for the original track route, but otherwise the new route of the SUW is much to be recommended. Cross the footbridge and turn right along a riverside path. Cross a track opposite the buildings of Glenhead. Cross a stile and then a boulder strewn stream to head uphill to the left as indicated by a SUW waymarker post. The effort of the climb is rewarded with spectacular mountain views.

Just before joining the track of the original route Loch Dee comes into view to the east. Descend to the track (SUW Information Board) and turn left along it. Some easy walking follows, but you are in most impressive hill country. The track offers good views of Loch Dee before it enters trees and descends to cross White Laggan Burn. White Laggan Bothy (see Appendix 1) can be seen to the south, about 0.5km (0.3 mile) off-route, reached by a good grassy path, leaving the SUW on the right. It would be a haven in severe weather conditions, providing perhaps shelter whilst lunch is enjoyed out of the rain, or even for an overnight stay.

The SUW track climbs above and traverses the south-east shore of Loch Dee offering fine views into the remote hills of Craignaw (645m; 2116ft) and Dungeon Hill (620m; 2034 ft). Look out for a bench on the left of the track at a good viewpoint into these hills. The track climbs and then descends again to reach a track T-junction at an `S’ bend. Turn left down the track, which leads to a bridge over the Black Water of Dee. A few metres after this bridge bear right on a track (no waymark) and shortly, when this reaches another track T-junction, bear right again. Remain on this track for almost 4km to reach Clatteringshaws Loch. The large dome of the Cairnsmore or Black Craig of Dee (493m; 1617ft) will be seen ahead (to the east-south-east) in the distance whilst on this walk. When you reach a large clearing be sure to look back at the dramatic crags of Cairngarroch (557m: 1827ft). The track eventually passes under high-tension electricity cables and soon afterwards the huge expanse of water that is Clatteringshaws Loch comes into view.

The SUW follows the northern shore of the Loch for about 600m before it follows the track that turns away to the north-east. This track climbs to reach a surfaced track at a crossroads. Those walkers who have sensibly divided the two long stages between Bargrennan and Sanquhar into three more manageable sections, will be relieved to arrive at the SUW fingerpost here as this is also marked as the `Pick-up Point’ for the commercial company that operates transport in this area. The rest of you continuing to Dalry today still have a long way to go from here!

Turn left at the `Pick-up’ Point along a track for about 500m. At a SUW fingerpost turn right over a wooden stile to follow a path along a dry stone wall (dyke). Cross another stile, where SUW Leaflet Boxes should be found, and follow the path into a forestry plantation. The Trail climbs through firebreaks in the forestry, eventually emerging on the open fellside and traversing Shield Rig. This is on the very edge of the Rhinns of Kells, a remote range of hills whose highest summits include some of the giants of the Galloway hills, Corserine (814m; 2670ft), Meaul (695m; 2280ft) and Meikle Millyea (746m; 2447ft). The steep slopes of the latter rise up to the north-west of Shield Rig and dominate the view in this area. The terrain is stony hereabouts and often overgrown, so take especial care not to stumble. Soon after passing some large boulders, a grand view of the distant hills opens out. The path over the moorland then begins to improve and descends to reach a track at the solitary house of Glenrie.

All is now plain sailing for a while as the track descends to the edge of the forestry plantation below Snab Hill, then turning to skirt the boundary of these trees, heading south-eastwards. At the building of Drumbuie the track runs into a narrow metalled lane, which is followed in an easterly direction towards Dalry. Descend gradually
on this quiet lane, passing the farm of Knocksheen, for a little under 4km until, soon after the lane crosses a bridge, and with the river now on your left, look out for a SUW fingerpost on the left-hand side of the lane.

This signpost directs the walker onto a path that runs alongside the river to meet and cross a footbridge. Cross a ladder stile and summon up the strength for one last climb of the stage, up Waterside Hill. The route of the SUW goes close to the top of the hill, but strangely doesn’t visit the actual summit. So a short detour is required to reach the summit cairn at the high point of 172m (564ft). There is a grand panorama from here, from the high hills in the north including the giant Cairnsmore of Carsphairn (797m; 2614ft) to those in the north-west (Corserine), and west (Meikle Millyea). But the most welcome site to the weary walker will be the houses of the picturesque village of St John’s Town of Dalry nestling below the hillside.

Follow the SUW waymarker posts from the little col below the summit of Waterside Hill down towards the village (there is often almost head high bracken on this hillside during the summer months, which rather spoils the experience). The Trail leads to a road by a `water ladder’. Turn right for 20m and then left through a kissing
gate to gain access onto a path alongside the river. Cross the large suspension bridge to enter Dalry near it’s church, passing a SUW Information Board on the ascent from the bridge to the main road. The Way emerges onto Dalry High Street next to the Clachan Inn, the home of southernuplandway.com.

Places of Interest

Galloway Forest Park
Much of the area between Dalmellington and Girvan in the north and Newton Stewart and New Galloway in the south is now the Galloway Forest Park, a huge area of
high mountain, moorland, lochs and commercial forestry covering 240 square miles. Apart from the long-distance SUW that passes right through the Park, there are a number of short marked walking trails, cycling routes and forest drives. There are Visitor Centres at Kirroughtree and Clatteringshaws Loch.

Caldons
Until a few years ago there was a pleasant and useful campsite here, much used by SUW walkers. In the nearby Caldons Wood there is a martyr’s tomb which bears witness to the murder of six Covenanters who were surprised at prayer and immediately shot here by one Colonel Douglas in 1685.

Galloway Hills
The Galloway Hills are a very extensive range of mountains that contain some twenty-six hills over 2000 feet in height, as well as three of the seven Corbetts of Southern Scotland, Shalloch on Minnoch (775m; 2542ft), Corserine (814m; 2670ft), and the highest point in Southern Scotland, Merrick (843m; 2765ft). Whilst the
latter mountain has a path to the summit and is relatively easy of access, this is not the case with the majority of the range, whose hills are often remote and exceedingly rough, testing the skill of the seasoned hillwalker and backpacker.

The North Galloway Hills consist of three ranges, the Rhinns of Carsphairn, the Rhinns of Kells (Rhinns in this sense comes from the Gaelic word `rinn’ which means a sharp point) and the rocky Dungeon range to the east. The ridges to the west are said to resemble that of a gigantic hand and thus are known, rather dramatically, as the Range of the Awful Hand. The main hills in the North Galloway Hills are Merrick (843m; 2765ft), Shalloch on Minnoch (775m; 2542ft), Craignaw (645m; 2116ft),
Dungeon Hill (610m; 2001ft), Mullwharchar (692m; 2270ft), Meikle Millyea (746m; 2447ft), Corserine (814m; 2670ft), Carlin’s Cairn (807m; 2647ft), Cairnsgarroch (659m; 2280ft) and Coran of Portmark (623m; 2043ft). The South Galloway Hills consist of the Lamachans or Minnigaff Hills, Larg Hill (676m; 2217ft), Lamachan Hill (716m; 2349ft), Curleywee (674m; 2207ft) and Millfore (665m; 2181ft) as well as numerous scattered isolated summits, including Cairnsmore of Fleet (711m; 2332ft), Criffel (569m; 1866ft), Bengairn (391m; 1282ft) and Screel Hill (343m; 1125ft).

Loch Trool
A much-visited beauty spot, situated at the head of Glentrool, surrounded by pine trees and the rugged mountains of the Galloway Hills. It is over 2km long but no more than 400m at its widest points. The loch side is the site of the historic Battle of Glen Trool where in 1307 at the steep sided Steps of Trool (grid reference NX
422797) the English were routed by Robert the Bruce’s forces. The Battle is commemorated by the Bruce Memorial Stone, a gigantic boulder above the Loch on the opposite side to that used by the SUW. The area of hill and moorland between Loch Trool and Loch Dee to the east is the site of the famous supposed chase in John
Buchan’s novel The Thirty-Nine Steps.

Clatteringshaws Loch
A very extensive area of water, over three km long and over two km wide at its widest, northern, end. The loch is a reservoir, formed by the damming of the River Dee. The area is known for its wild goats, and deer are not uncommon hereabouts. On the opposite shore to that used by the SUW there is an interesting Visitor Centre detailing some local history and having a reconstruction of an ancient hut dwelling. Nearby is a Bruce’s Stone commemorating another victory over the English, again in the year 1307. The Levellers, the people’s champions of their day (the 17th century) were active in this area. Clatteringshaws Loch is popular with car tourists, offering easy access by the A712, good car parking and an attractive Forest Drive along the `Raiders Road’ from Clatteringshaws to the A762 south of New Galloway near Loch Ken.

St John’s Town of Dalry
Known locally merely as `Dalry’ (from the Gaelic dail righ, `meadow of the king’) the town is said to have been given its full title by the Knights Templar. The picturesque
town is the principal one in the district of the Glenkens, the valley drained by the Water of Ken, from Carsphairn in the north to the attractive Loch Ken in the south, a popular spot with tourists and anglers. In recent years red kites have been very successfully introduced into the Glenkens and it is possible to see these birds, particularly from the various viewing areas near Loch Ken and at the Kite Feeding Station near Laurieston, both on the `Galloway Kite Trail’. Dalry was a seat of unrest for the Covenanters of the 17th century and several of them are buried in the churchyard. Nowadays it has become a centre for walking in the area, hosting a major business catering for SUW hikers, walker-friendly accommodation and a new walking trail down the valley to New Galloway. Grocery shops, pubs, hotels, B&Bs and a post office are all to be found in friendly Dalry.

The high street is a very steep one, as SUW walkers will soon discover on setting out for the next stage of their journey. At the top end of the village will be found a block of stone shaped like a seat. Tradition has it that John the Baptist rested here! Be sure to look at this and the view of the Rhinns of Kells above Dalry before taking
your leave.