Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas - A Climber's Guidebook

Guidebook includes climbing routes on 25 immense crags on the south side of Morocco's Jebel el Kest, 120km south-east of Agadir, based from Tafroute. The superb rock conditions on the pink quartzite rock provide excellent and adventurous rock climbing routes of up to 500 metres high across all grades.

It is fortunate in that the Jebel el Kest massif comprises, apparently without exception, of quartzite pre-Cambrian rock, an ideal climbing material and which has not been subject to erosion from frost action. Consequently, loose rock is found only in very localised areas and ‘natural’ protection is generally available, negating any call for desecration by bolts.

Further favourable aspects are the relatively short approaches to the crags and the wide variety of routes that are available, which suit a range of climbing standards. These aspects, together with the wonderful weather that occurs between December and April, makes the area an ideal venue for climbing. Those who want an adventure holiday with the added interest of a cultural zone different to their own need look no further.

This guide doesn’t provide, and is not intending to supply, detailed pitch-by-pitch descriptions to the multitude of climbing routes that have been pioneered since 1991. Instead, it is hoped that climbers will appreciate and enjoy both finding their route based upon the generalised lines marked on the photographs, and using the list of routes where the most difficult grade of any section is identified. The style of information in Climbing in The Moroccan Anti-Atlas is a departure from most rock-climbing guides but seems to be an appropriate approach for this area and for the routes that vary in length from 75m to 800m.

A few walks have been identified to whet the appetite. As with the climbing, a sense of adventure and a desire to construct your own routes on mountain paths in spectacular surroundings will pay handsome dividends. Do not be deterred by apparent virgin terrain: you will quickly appreciate that a myriad of paths exist, even in unlikely locations. Circular walks can often be constructed, as well as linear ones though this necessitates the organising of vehicles.