Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas - A Climber's Guidebook

Cover of Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas
Availability
Published
Cover
Paperback - Laminated
Published
1 Feb 2004
Edition
First
ISBN
9781852844127
Expand
ISBN (10)
1852844124
Size
17.2 x 11.6 x 1.5cm
Weight
210g
Pages
192
No. Maps
4
No. Photos
129 including routes
Originally Published
1 Feb 2004

Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas

Tafroute and Jebel el Kest by Claude Davies

Guidebook includes climbing routes on 25 immense crags on the south side of Morocco's Jebel el Kest, 120km south-east of Agadir, based from Tafroute. The superb rock conditions on the pink quartzite rock provide excellent and adventurous rock climbing routes of up to 500 metres high across all grades. More...

Buy from Cicerone

Printed Book
Adobe Digital eBook  (more)
Printed Book + eBook  SAVE £6.00
 

Seasons

All months except May to October when temperatures are too hot to contemplate climbing and Read More... walking; November and December are the “wet season”.

Centres

Access is through Agadir, the climbing is based from the pleasant town of Tafroute.

Difficulty

These routes are remote and long trad climbs in a wild environment. Many of the climbs are Read More... mid-grade. But there is no rescue so be prepared and equipped properly.

Must See

Massive walls of barely climbed rock!
 
 

View Sample Route Map

CRAG AX – ANERGUI

This crag lies opposite Crag A and is an obvious sight from the path running adjacent to the rocky watercourse.

Approach
The best approach is to follow the path up the valley to a small waterfall. Cross this and follow a vague path through the cultivated terraces to the foot of the crag. This is a 15 minute walk from the car.

The crag has an impressive south face and more amenable east face, with pinnacles at the junction, and one lying against the east face.

Descent
Descent is easy to the north, down easy slopes after initial scrambling.

ROUTE  LENGTH  GRADE  FIRST ASCENTS 
AX1 Eastern Front 125m 4A R. McBain & J. Lowther 2003
AX2 The Thumb 50m V Diff C.E. Davies & A.P. Turnbull 2003

CRAG B – IGORDAN

Road Access
Igordan is at the western end of the Ameln valley, a 10-minute drive from Tafroute following the secondary road to Tiznit and off which runs the Tanalt road.

Approach
The preferred way to get to the crag, which is clearly visible behind Igordan, is to turn off the road at the sign for Japon, approximately 1km before reaching the Igordan junction. The track, which is driveable for approximately 2km, ends before Igordan, continues as a path to the oasis. Follow the path and the associated water leet, which bye-passes the village. Once directly below the crag, a path is reached which climbs the steep slope, avoiding the arghan trees and other vegetation.

An alternative approach is made by following a rising diagonal ascent of the old terraces from the end of the driveable track.

Both routes take approximately 30 minutes to walk.

Descents
The only climbing routes to date involve an abseil descent from the pinnacle, and down climbing at the right-hand end of the crag.

ROUTE LENGTH GRADE FIRST ASCENTS
B1 Right Approach 200m 4C L. Brown, J. Brown & C.E. Davies
 & A.P. Turnbull 2002
B2 Left Approach 200m Diff & 4C Diff & 4C - D.H. Jones, J. Brown,
C.E. Davies & A.P. Turnbull 2003

 
 
Site by OUTSRC