Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas - A Climber's Guidebook

Guidebook includes climbing routes on 25 immense crags on the south side of Morocco's Jebel el Kest, 120km south-east of Agadir, based from Tafroute. The superb rock conditions on the pink quartzite rock provide excellent and adventurous rock climbing routes of up to 500 metres high across all grades.

Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas

Tafroute and Jebel el Kest

Author

Claude Davies

Cover

Paperback - Laminated

Edition

First

ISBN_13

9781852844127

Availability

Published

Price

£12.00

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Cover of Climbing in the Moroccan Anti-Atlas

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Front Cover (1)
Location Map (1)
Overview Maps (3)
Sample Routes (4)
Sample Photos (2)

Seasons

All months except May to October when temperatures are too hot to contemplate climbing and walking; November and December are the “wet season”.

Centres

Access is through Agadir, the climbing is based from the pleasant town of Tafroute.

Difficulty

These routes are remote and long trad climbs in a wild environment. Many of the climbs are mid-grade. But there is no rescue so be prepared and equipped properly.

Must See

Massive walls of barely climbed rock!

View Sample Route Map

CRAG AX – ANERGUI

This crag lies opposite Crag A and is an obvious sight from the path running adjacent to the rocky watercourse.

Approach
The best approach is to follow the path up the valley to a small waterfall. Cross this and follow a vague path through the cultivated terraces to the foot of the crag. This is a 15 minute walk from the car.

The crag has an impressive south face and more amenable east face, with pinnacles at the junction, and one lying against the east face.

Descent
Descent is easy to the north, down easy slopes after initial scrambling.

ROUTE	LENGTH	GRADE	FIRST ASCENTS
AX1 Eastern Front	125m	4A	R. McBain & J. Lowther 2003
AX2 The Thumb	50m	V Diff	C.E. Davies & A.P. Turnbull 2003

CRAG B – IGORDAN

Road Access
Igordan is at the western end of the Ameln valley, a 10-minute drive from Tafroute following the secondary road to Tiznit and off which runs the Tanalt road.

Approach
The preferred way to get to the crag, which is clearly visible behind Igordan, is to turn off the road at the sign for Japon, approximately 1km before reaching the Igordan junction. The track, which is driveable for approximately 2km, ends before Igordan, continues as a path to the oasis. Follow the path and the associated water leet, which bye-passes the village. Once directly below the crag, a path is reached which climbs the steep slope, avoiding the arghan trees and other vegetation.

An alternative approach is made by following a rising diagonal ascent of the old terraces from the end of the driveable track.

Both routes take approximately 30 minutes to walk.

Descents
The only climbing routes to date involve an abseil descent from the pinnacle, and down climbing at the right-hand end of the crag.

ROUTE	LENGTH	GRADE	FIRST ASCENTS
B1 Right Approach	200m	4C	L. Brown, J. Brown & C.E. Davies & A.P. Turnbull 2002
B2 Left Approach	200m	Diff & 4C	Diff & 4C - D.H. Jones, J. Brown, C.E. Davies & A.P. Turnbull 2003