Everest: A Trekker’s Guide - Trekking in Nepal and Tibet
Everest: A Trekker’s Guide
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Section 1 - Namche Bazaar to Dole
Distance: 12km (7½ miles)
Time: 1–2 days
Start altitude: 3446m (11,306ft)
High point: Dole (4084m: 13,399ft)
This first stage of the Gokyo trek is a scenically extravagant one with views of Kangtega, Thamserku, Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse and Everest. From Namche to Kyangjuma the route is shared with the trail to Thyangboche, Pangboche and Lobuche, but shortly after passing the Kyangjuma lodges, you leave the main trail to begin a long climb to the Mong Danda, beyond which you enter the Gokyo valley. With Dole being more than 600m higher than Namche, it’s essential to adhere to the rules of acclimatisation to enjoy continued safe trekking. Unless you are acclimatised before leaving Namche, consider breaking the route at Phortse Tenga. Take your time, enjoy the magnificent scenery, and remember to drink frequently along the way.
Namche Bazaar to Phortse Tenga (3–3½hr)
Leave Namche on the classic Everest trail, which climbs over the eastern rim of the township’s bowl near the National Park headquarters. Having made that initial climb the trail now contours gently round the hillside and on turning a spur presents you with a magnificent view that will probably stop you in your tracks. Everest is seen peering over the ridge linking Nuptse and Lhotse, while Ama Dablam imposes its graceful personality on the whole valley.
The path curves into the hillside, then rounds another spur marked by a large white chorten and strings of coloured prayer flags. The chorten was erected to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Everest’s first ascent, and to honour Tenzing Norgay and the Everest Sherpas. Once again, this is a wonderful viewpoint; from it you continue high above the Dudh Kosi, and a little over 1hr from Namche come to a high point, after which the trail eases downhill among rhododendrons, trees and berberis shrubs. Pass the two lodges of KYANGJUMA (3600m: 11,811ft) that exploit a direct view of Ama Dablam, and keep ahead for a very short distance, still sloping downhill among rhododendrons, then cross a stream coming from Khumjung. A few paces beyond this the trail forks. One path cuts back to the left and is signed to Khumjung, but for Gokyo take the alternative left-hand path which slants off ahead – this is also signed. (The main trail continues to Sanasa, then descends to the river on the way to Thyangboche.)
The Gokyo path climbs steeply above the lodges of SANASA, and in another 10min brings you to a major crossing trail (the path from Khumjung). Bear right along it.
Route from Khumjung
Go down from the village to its eastern end where there is a large chorten near the last of the houses. The trail forks by a small house. Take the left-hand option which heads northeastwards along the slopes of Khumbila. The path forks again, although it may not be an obvious junction. Both trails lead to the Gokyo valley; the narrow upper route is less used than the alternative, for it mounts a very steep stairway of stone slabs (avoid if you have problems with vertigo) and eventually joins the main route some way before Mong. The main path at the junction very soon joins the Namche–Gokyo route described above.
Before long you climb a fairly steep flight of steps created up a band of rock, above which the path eases on a steady slanting ascent of open hillside with consistently fine views. Ama Dablam is a constant distraction; the village of Phortse can be seen on a sloping apron of land across the mouth of the Gokyo valley, while Thyangboche monastery is also visible on its wooded ridge to the east. Angling across the hillside the trail leads directly to a spur of Khumbila upon which there’s a large white chorten, a few simple lodges, and yet more magnificent views of Ama Dablam, Kangtega and Thamserku, with Thyangboche below and directly across the valley. Reached in 2–2½hr from Namche, this small ridge-crest settlement is known as MONG (Mong Danda; 3973m: 13,035ft), the birthplace of the revered Lama Sange Dorje who, it is said, brought Buddhism to the Khumbu.
Crossing the spur here you enter the Gokyo valley with a steep descent by way of a series of zigzags that lose 300m or so of height before coming to a trail junction at PHORTSE TENGA.
PHORTSE TENGA (3643m: 11,952ft) consists of just two or three simple lodges. There used to be a National Park checkpost and an army post a little farther along the trail; these were both abandoned but remained intact on my last visit. Several metres below the lodges there are some good campsites on both banks of the river. Another very simple lodge on the east bank is backed by one of these sites. The bridge which spans the Dudh Kosi here carries a trail up to the lovely Sherpa village of Phortse on the east flank of the valley, which is visited on Trek 5.
Phortse Tenga to Dole (2–2½hr)
The continuing trail climbs away from the lodges of Phortse Tenga, passing through light rhododendron woods. About 15min later you come to the two remote outpost buildings, the first owned by the National Park, the second by the Nepalese army, from which you can see Cho Oyu for the first time at the head of the valley. From here to Dole will take another 1½–2hr.
The route makes some twisting ascents through woodland, and a steeper climb in the open. It crosses a number of streams, passes below long ribbon waterfalls, and often rewards with wonderful views back to Thamserku and Kangtega. Not long after crossing a small yak pasture with a solitary herder’s hut (TONGBA), the trail makes a hillside traverse, crosses a minor ridge, then enters the pastureland of DOLE with its handful of lodges and plenty of camping spaces.
DOLE (4084m: 13,399ft) is likely to be considerably colder than Namche or Phortse Tenga, especially when afternoon mists descend on the pastures. It’s possible that you may also be feeling the altitude here. If you are suffering any of the symptoms of mild mountain sickness, do not proceed upvalley until they have gone. If symptoms persist, or increase in discomfort, return downvalley at least as far as Phortse Tenga where you will hopefully experience an improvement. Like other lodge settlements in the valley, Dole began as a kharka, or yak pasture with a few herders’ huts, but once Gokyo was discovered as a trekking destination, lodges soon sprang up. Most of the lodges here stand high above the stream that drains through the scooped pastureland, but others are being built on the north bank as the valley grows in popularity. From Dole exciting views back to the south reveal the impressive shapes of Kangtega and Thamserku, while Cho Oyu spreads its white ridge across the valley to the north.
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