The Mountains of Andorra - Walls, Scrambles, Via Ferratas, Treks
The Mountains of Andorra
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Though Andorra has given us some of the finest mountain walking in Europe over many years, the casual observer would be forgiven for approaching the area with an element of scepticism. The first sight of the Principality in summer can be dispiriting. Crossing the Port d’Envalira from France above the ski resort of Pas de La Casa you enter the Valira, one of the most developed alpine valleys in Europe. Down the whole length twists the clogged, fume-ridden road linking Toulouse to Barcelona, dogged sometimes with roadworks and temporary traffic lights. The once attractive villages are swamped by hard-edged apartment blocks, the slopes on either side criss-crossed with the erosion of ski development. Lower down the valley is the bizarre duty-free shopping mall which threads Andorra La Vella, 8km of perfume, hi-fi and booze shops: a reminder that the ‘Charlemagnic’ romance of this tiny state survives on skiing, duty-free goods and offshore banking. We headed down through this dispiriting sight one wet day in mid May wondering how we were going to survive six weeks of leading walks.
Yet within 48 hours we had fallen for the place. The beauty which once belonged to the main valley still exists a short walk away in unspoilt side valleys. The range of walks available in a compact area is breathtaking, and it is much quieter than in the Alps or better-known areas of the Pyrenees. Though waymarked paths thread the area, there are few lifts working to hoist tourists to the summits. The hut system consists of well-maintained unmanned ‘bothies’. In early summer the peaks and valleys are mostly deserted, and even in July there are few walkers around. The pastures are dotted with ruined crofts and sheep folds, deserted by all but a few herdsmen and docile groups of semi-wild horses.
The peaks of Andorra are rugged, but usually attainable by walking or easy scrambling, and the experienced walker can enjoy the satisfaction of gaining the highest peaks. Moreover the Principality nestles south of the watershed near the east of the Pyrenees, far from Atlantic fronts, and enjoys stable weather. The complex geology makes for varied scenery and a stunning variety of flowers. Throw in inexpensive accommodation, an excellent bus service, adequate maps and guidebooks and cheap food, drink and petrol, and you have a package that more than compensates for the superficial ugliness of the Valira.
Even the main valley has compensations. The cultural mixture of Catalan, Spanish and French is fascinating, as is the complicated frontier history. In among the vulgarity lurk delightful corners with traditional stone buildings. Dotted throughout are tiny Romanesque churches, islands of calm amid the traffic. On rainy days every village offers state-of-the-art relaxation in sports halls and swimming pools. I left with unexpected regret after that first trip, and have returned many times since.
General information
Andorra is a tiny, land-locked country covering only 468sq km on the border between Spain and France, south of the Pyrenean watershed and bordered by Aragon and Catalonia. Since the Middle Ages it has been administered jointly by the government of France and the Bishop of Seu de Urgell in Aragon (in effect the Spanish government). Its internal affairs are managed by an elected ruling council. Historically its independence was instituted by royal charter and maintained due to its inaccessibility and poverty. The pastoral economy relied on sheep, tobacco growing and smuggling. In modern times the survival of the tiny state has been guaranteed by its economic prosperity as a tax- and duty-free haven, with a well-developed downhill skiing industry.
Andorra is trilingual. The first language is Catalan, though Spanish and French are universally spoken. English is understood in tourist areas catering for British skiers in winter, but cannot be assumed in quieter corners. It is easy to communicate in Spanish or French, but a few words of Catalan are appreciated. Culturally the area is firmly Catalan. The traditional art and architecture – particularly the lovely Romanesque churches that scatter the valleys – are an offshoot of Catalan culture, and the finest of the mediaeval frescoes are kept in the Museum of Catalan Art in Barcelona. A professed enthusiasm for the ‘blues’ (Barcelona FC) and a concomitant prejudice regarding the ‘whites’ (Real Madrid FC) will get you a long way with the locals.
Lying at the eastern end of the main Pyrenean chain, in the rainshadow of its main peaks, means that in summer the weather here is often good – certainly noticeably drier than many main Alpine, or even western Pyrenean, areas. The valleys face south and get a great deal of sun. In summer the climate tends to be dry and Mediterranean. Clear days are frequent, while cloud and rain fill the north-oriented valleys just over the border in France. Yet the ridges are high enough for summer heat to rarely be a problem, even in July and August (though at that time of year early starts would be recommended as the valleys do get very hot). The mountains offer unique flora, combining species found in other alpine regions with plants of a more specific Mediterranean type. Around 180 plant species are endemic to the Pyrenees, and many of these will be found in Andorra. May and June are the best months to visit for spring flowers.
Practicalities
Andorra surrounds one long main valley, the Valira, running from the border in the northeast at the Envalira (2409m), to the Spanish frontier at the southwest corner at about 850m. This valley is heavily affected by commerce and traffic. At its foot lie the main towns of Andorra la Vella and Escaldes, a tasteless duty-free shopping complex. Fortunately a large number of quiet side valleys radiate out from the main valley, and even within the main valley some delightful corners are preserved, particularly the Romanesque churches, which are generally open and manned by enthusiastic students in July and August. The tourist infrastructure in the main valley revolves is well organised on account of the profitable winter sports industry.
There is plentiful inexpensive hotel accommodation in summer and prices generally are reasonable. There is a variety of campsites in the main valley but these are busy and noisy in summer: the most attractive fixed site is at the head of Vall d’Incles, well off the main road (open from June onwards). Wild camping is possible with discretion. An alternative is the excellent, free, well-maintained and underused system of 25 mountain huts scattered round the country. These are not Alpine huts, but open bothies with cooking facilities; only one is wardened.
Soldeu is a convenient base for the valleys branching off the upper Valira Valley, though a rather soulless ski resort in itself. For the western valleys, staying around Ordino makes a reasonable base and Arinsal is pleasant, though less central. Encamp is a fair compromise with a central location if accommodation can be found off the main road.
Even though the country is technically outside the EU the currency is the Euro. One real peculiarity is that the Post Office (titled both ‘Poste’ and ‘Correo’) will send your letters by either French or Spanish mail – the former seems to be marginally quicker and more reliable, but the difference is marginal. An excellent, regular, cheap bus service runs up and down the main valley, with a slightly less convenient service in the major Ordino side valley. Much of the best walking can be reached using the public service, and day traverses are often convenient. Taxis and private buses are readily available and prices to the more remote valley heads are reasonable.
The cost of living is comparable with mainland Spain, and much cheaper than the French Pyrenees or the Alps. Incidental costs for drinks, coffees, snacks and entertainment are relatively low. A wide range of mountaineering clothing and equipment can be found cheaply in stores in the towns. (Alpesport, Avenida Miquel, Mateu 9, Les Escaldes and Viladomat Esports, Avenida Carlemany, 61, Escaldes-Engordany.)
Andorra is an astonishing shopping complex. If you can stand the crowds and traffic then there are bargains to be had. The shops are open all year round with only four obligatory holidays – 1 January, 14 March (Constitution Day), 8 September (National Holiday for the Virgin of Meritxell) and 25 December. Note, however, that the principality is not fully part of the EU and that you have to be careful over the limits on goods you are allowed to take out. The Spanish and French police do regular spot checks as you leave, either at the custom posts or randomly by the roadside. If in any doubt the tourist offices will give you up-to-date and accurate information on the allowances.
Walking opportunities
Though none of the peaks rises above 3000m Andorra is very mountainous, with an average height of 1996m. The geology is very varied with many rock types, though relatively few areas are suited to serious climbing, and there are no undiscovered crags of international importance. The peaks tend to form narrow and graceful scrambling ridges round deeply trenched valleys, with a plethora of beautifully situated mountain lakes.
The area is ideal for moderate and hard mountain walking. Moderate walkers will find many fine objectives in the valleys, lakes and easier grassy peaks. More experienced walkers can gain almost all the highest and finest peaks through no more than easy scrambling. Paths are reasonably marked, but not as comprehensively as in the Alps or French Pyrenees. Much of the terrain at the head of the side valleys is rough and wild. The area is noticeably quieter than better-known places such as the Aneto or Ordesa, and much quieter than most Alpine areas. It is rare to meet more than a handful of people on the trails even in high summer, and in late spring or autumn you can have whole valleys to yourself. Because of the relatively low elevation snow is rarely a problem to walkers on the peaks after early June
North of the Valira the valleys branch as follows. Vall d’Incles, Vall de Ransol and Vall Riu are lovely small side valleys all with excellent walking, though two have now been partly penetrated by tarmac roads. Vall d’Ordino is much more substantial and branches into the Vall d’Arinsal and Vall d’Aos. Parts of this area have been spoiled by skiing developments but there are still some fine corners, particularly the idyllic pastures of Sorteny and imposing lakes and peaks of Tristaina. The highest of Andorra’s peaks are found here. South of Valira are the fine Pessons Cirque of peaks above the ski resort of Grau Roig, the attractive but rather despoiled Cortals valley and the magnificent Vall del Madriu. The latter is one of the glories of Andorra, as yet completely unspoilt and a tough challenge, with a fine branch valley up the Vall d’Perafita.
Only a few of Andorra’s high peaks offer mountaineering challenges by their easiest route. The following can all be reached by the experienced walker through easy scrambling and are highly recommended: Pic de Coma Pedrosa (2942m), Pic de l’Estanyo (2915m), Pic de la Serrara (2913m), Pic de Font Blanca (2903m) and Pic de Tristaina (2878m). Easy peaks providing simple mountain walks include Pic de la Cabaneta (2863m), Pic de Montmalus (2781m) and Pic de Casimanya (2741m). Perhaps the finest cross-country walk is the splendid crossing of the GR7 from Pessons to Escaldes via the Vall de Madriu. A complete circuit of the frontier peaks would make a challenging 12-day excursion with a great deal of scrambling (Kev Reynolds – in an earlier Cicerone guide Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees – compares it to six Cuillin Ridges!)
The Principality is crossed by a number of long-distance paths. The French GR7 and GR11 and the Alta Ruta Pyrenaica (ARP) are all well waymarked and frequently used or crossed on the walks described. In addition the local authorities, who have been making great efforts to encourage summer walking, have created a circular multi-day tour round Andorra – the Gran Ruta Pyrenaica (GRP – HRP in France). In general the waymarking of paths has improved considerably in recent years and is now fairly comparable with the Alps.
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