The Cumbria Coastal Way - A Walker's Guidebook

This guidebook follows the continuous 298km (182 mile) walking route from Silverdale, on Morecambe Bay, towards Gretna on the Scottish border. The route links a number of gems of landscape, wildlife, archaeology and history along this often little-known coastline. A walk of 10–14 days suitable for all levels of ability.

A coastline can be compared to a string of pearls where there is a continual dynamic interplay between land and sea, between coastal destruction and creation, between erosion and deposition, and between the frequently conflicting demands of people and nature. Nowhere is this more evident than on the Cumbrian coast. From Morecambe Bay to the Solway – two of England’s great estuaries – this coastline has been shaped by the interaction of nature and economy; yet it retains much elemental beauty.

Edwin Waugh, writing in 1861 in Seaside, Lakes and Mountains of Cumbria, said:

Of all the English lake scenery no part lies less well known than that which skirts the sea, from the ruins of Peel in Furness to Whitehaven in Cumberland: and there is none which deserves less neglect. Shut out on the east by England’s wildest mountains and on the west by the Irish Channel... this tract of country possesses interesting relics of every race which has left its name in our history.

Waugh’s comments are as valid today as in the 19th century.

The Cumbria Coastal Way route was officially opened in the early 1990s. The concept of a link with other regional coastal paths to create a North West Coastal Trail from Chester to Carlisle (or, put another way, virtually from Wales to Scotland) is under active consideration, along with the possibility for increased coastal access.

The Cumbria Coastal Way is 298km/182 miles long and is not aimed specifically at the long-distance walker, although it can be accomplished as a single journey of 10–14 days. The walk is suitable for all abilities and can be undertaken in day or weekend sections. Much of the routefinding is easy but, that said, some sections need care underfoot and careful planning where the tides may affect the route. The route rarely climbs higher than 100m above sea level and has been designed to link with public transport. Because of the prevailing winds the route is described from south to north, and whilst May to October is a good season for walking the Cumbria Coastal Way can be enjoyed at any time of year.

Normal walking equipment is advised but there are some sections, such as those along the beach, where less strong footwear may be appropriate. The book describes the walks in sections; Appendix I has contacts for Tourist Information Centres where details of accommodation and services can be found.

The Cumbria Coastal Way caters for young and old, ramblers and amblers, loners and groups, photographers, historians, industrial archaeologists, wildlife watchers and conservationists. It appeals to local residents and to visitors alike. The views towards the Lake District fells, to the Isle of Man and to the hills of Scotland add extra interest.

The Walk

The walk is described in five main sections:

Section I – Morecambe Bay
This is a major gem of the northwest coastline in terms of history, natural history and scenery. There are superb backdrops of the fells of the Lake District and Forest of Bowland. The bay is ringed with nature conservation sites of European and national importance, and these are linked with nationally designated landscape (Arnside–Silverdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty) and imposing houses and gardens at Levens Hall and Holker Hall.

Section II – The Duddon Estuary
The route encircles one of England’s most secret estuaries. It passes through the market town of Broughton-in-Furness and then Millom, home and birthplace of the celebrated poet Norman Nicholson. The estuary is overshadowed by – as is most of the southern part of the route – the great mound of Black Combe. An ascent of this peak for its extensive views is easily achieved from the Coastal Way.

Section III – The Lake District Coast
This quiet coast forms the southwestern fringes of the Lake District National Park and is noted for its wildlife and prehistoric sites. Inland lie the dales and fells whose waters gather to enter the sea via the triple estuary at Ravenglass, from where Romans once supplied their legions. Waters from England’s highest fells and deepest lake emerge on this coast. The narrow gauge steam railway winds its way up into Eskdale. The house and gardens at Muncaster Castle are justly renowned.

Section IV – The West Cumbria Coast
From Seascale to Maryport green spaces intermingle with industrial towns and complexes whose history frequently placed them at the heart of the development of industrial technology. The historic towns of Whitehaven, Workington and Maryport all possess some superb architecture and are close to sites, such as St Bees Heads, where nature is profligate. Along this stretch of the walk the striking interface of economic development and natural beauty is at its most dynamic.

Section V – The Solway Estuary
North of Maryport you enter a wild landscape with the Scottish hills enticingly close across the most spectacular of estuaries. This is an area of big and imposing skies and plentiful wildlife; walking here is a privilege, and the locals rejoice in their special landscape. Steeped in history and literary associations it is still sufficiently secretive to warrant reverent attention. Carlisle is both the gateway to Scotland and a place worth visiting in its own right.

Flowers and wildlife

Many differing habitats are encountered along the coast, each with special types of plant and animals. Wildlife is evident in varying degrees, depending on the season, the state of the tides, and how inconspicuous you are; patience is often well rewarded. The coastal path links a string of designated nature reserves: European Special Areas of Conservation sites (SAC), Ramsar sites (internationally important wetlands), Special Protection Areas (SPA) for birds, National Nature Reserves (NNR), Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and county wildlife sites. The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB), Cumbria Wildlife Trust (CWT), the National Trust (NT) and Natural England (NE) are significant coastal nature reserve landholders.

To undertake all or part of this walk without carrying a pair of binoculars or a field guide would be sheer folly. The wildlife encountered along the route – coastal birds such as the black guillemot, seals and porpoise, and a huge variety of coastal flora including uncommon orchids – is an integral part of the experience.

The local wildlife – from birds’ eggs to cockles, shrimps and fish – has been or is still exploited. Haaf netting on the Solway goes back 1000 years (‘haaf’ is the Norse word for channel). There are extensive mussel and cockle beds where birds compete with humans for food. The River Irt was once famed for its freshwater pearls.

Literary and historical associations

The Cumbrian fells and dales have been the inspiration for a vast quantity of prose, poetry, novels and topographical writing over the centuries. By comparison the coastal zone is less extensively quoted, yet it is an area that has inspired writers to produce high quality work. Dickens, Coleridge, Wordsworth, Walter Scott, and more recently poet Norman Nicholson, have all caught the spirit of the coast.

The coast is littered with archaeological sites for it was important to the first settlers of Cumbria : food was readily available, as well as material for polishing stone axes. There are a number of Roman sites along the northern section of the coast, as well as evidence of Vikings, Normans and, later, the monastic movement. These waves of settlement have all left their indelible mark upon the landscape traversed by the walk.

Estuaries

Estuaries are a major feature along the Cumbrian coast. These beautiful, wild indentations are an absolute delight: Morecambe Bay, the Duddon Sands, the triple estuary of the Rivers Irt, Mite and Esk at Ravenglass, and then the Solway must all be circumnavigated. They hold many of the important natural history sites in the area and often have historical and literary associations.

Sandy and muddy shores meet with small cliffs or saltmash. Lugworms, sand eels, shrimps and bivalves burrow into their substrate to avoid desiccation at low tide. Glasswort grows in this in-between world of wet and dry. These most productive of habitats bring in wading birds to feed by the hundred thousand. The saltmarshes host geese in huge numbers and uncommon birds, like the bittern, may be seen in areas of reed beds. Otters play and hunt in the rivers.�

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