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5:5 Knoydart

The Knoydart Peninsula is legendary among hillwalkers for its wild beauty, ruggedness and inaccessibility. No roads penetrate into this mountain fastness and approaches on foot are long and rough. There’s one village in Knoydart, Inverie on the northern shore of Loch Nevis, which is the only village on the British mainland to which there is no access by road, just by sea or on foot. The Mallaig to Inverie ferry is a scheduled service, running several days a week year round (www.knoydart-ferry.co.uk). Another ferry (www.arnisdaleferryservice.com) can be booked in advance. This runs from Arnisdale on the north shore of Loch Hourn to Barrisdale on the northeastern edge of Knoydart, where there is a bothy, campsite and self-catering accommodation (www.barisdale.com). Both ferries are wonderful ways to reach Knoydart, with superb views of the mountains in clear weather. The nearest points by road are at Kinloch Hourn at the end of a long single track road from Glen Garry and the head of Loch Arkaig, at the end of another long single track road. Inverie offers accommodation ranging from bunkhouse to guest house, a Post Office and shop, a café and a wonderful pub, The Old Forge, on whose website it says enticingly ‘Munro baggers, deer stalkers, hill climbers, anarchists and hippies all intermingled with a generous helping of musicians are the norm’ (www.theoldforge.co.uk).

Since 1999 a large part of Knoydart, including Inverie, has been owned by the Knoydart Foundation (www.knoydart-foundation.com),a partnership of local residents, the Highland Council, Chris Brasher Trust, Kilchoan estate and the John Muir Trust, whose aim is ‘to preserve, enhance and develop Knoydart for the well being of the environment and the people’. The John Muir Trust also owns the Li and Coire Dhorrcail Estate, making up the summit and the superb north side of Ladhar Bheinn, which was its first property, purchased in 1989.

The Knoydart Peninsula lies between the long fjord-like sea lochs Nevis and Hourn (the name Knoydart has a Norse derivation and comes from Knut’s Fjord) and is bordered to the east by Loch Quoich. There is no low ground between the Knoydart hills and those immediately to the east, between the River Carnoch glen and the minor road to Kinloch Hourn, so it’s logical to include these with the Knoydart hills. There are three Munros in Knoydart (although Sgurr na Ciche is often included as well) – Luinne Bheinn (possibly ‘sea-swelling mountain’, 939m), Meall Buidhe (‘yellow hill’, 946m) and Ladhar Bheinn (‘hoof hill’, 1020m) – and five Corbetts, Beinn Buidhe (‘yellow hill’, 855m), Sgurr Coire Choinnichean (‘peak of the mossy corrie’, 796m), Beinn na Caillich (‘peak of the old woman’, 785m), Sgurr a’Choire-bheithe (‘peak of the birch corrie’, 913m) and Sgurr nan Eugallt (‘peak of the furrowed rocks’, 898m). On the edge of the area are two interesting Grahams – Slat Bheinn (‘rod hill’, 700m) and Meall nan Eun (‘hill of the birds’, 667m).

Walking to Knoydart

Two superb walking routes lead to Knoydart from the road ends at Loch Arkaig and Kinloch Hourn. These are usually used as the start of multi-day trips in the region.

Glen Dessary to Inverie via the Mam na Cloich’ Airde and the Mam Meadail

This is one of the finest through-routes in the Highlands, threading a way up narrow glens and over wild passes from Loch Arkaig to Inverie at the mouth of Loch Nevis. Crossing two passes at 310m and 550m, with a drop to sea level between them and with much rough, rocky terrain, this 27km walk is harder than many hill climbs and not to be underestimated. It starts easily enough, as there are vehicle tracks running along each side of Glen Dessary, either of which can be followed from Loch Arkaig. The one on the northern side is less constrained by the plantations that bedevil the glen (a disgraceful legacy of a previous owner who, as the chair of the then Countryside Commission, should have known better) and so provides better views. There is a bothy, A’Chuil, on the southern side. The tracks eventually become paths that link up and continue into the wild, unspoilt upper glen and up to the first pass, 310m Bealach an Lagain Duibh, which is hemmed in by steep rocky slopes. The descent goes past Lochan a’ Mhaim and through the long narrow boulder-strewn cleft of the Mam na Cloich’ Airde, and then down to the head of Loch Nevis and little Sourlies Bothy. This is one of those magical places in the Highlands that feels special and splendid, bringing a feeling of joy to lovers of wild nature. The narrow loch runs out to the west between steep hills. The open sea cannot be seen but the seaweed and tide lines on the shore and the smell of sea spray show that this is salt water. Above the sandy shore lies a stretch of green turf and then the long Druim a’Ghoirtein ridge rising steeply to Sgurr na Ciche. Seabirds whirl and call along the shoreline and in spring and summer flowers dot the ground, including big irises in the wetter areas. This is a place to relax and absorb the atmosphere before continuing the rugged journey. When the tide is high the headland northwest of Sourlies has to be crossed. At low tide you can stroll along the sandy shore round to the mouth of the River Carnoch from where a vague path crosses salt marshes to a footbridge leading to some ruins marked as Carnoch on the map. From Carnoch the path climbs steeply northwest to Mam Meadail through splendidly rough terrain then descends Gleann Meadail to the Inverie River and a vehicle track to Inverie village.

Kinloch Hourn to Inverie via Barrisdale

Kinloch Hourn lies at the end of a scenic 35km long single track road that runs from the A87 west of Invergarry alongside Lochs Garry and Quoich. There’s not much at Kinloch Hourn – just a few houses, a farm, two car parks (one for day visitors, one for long stay) and some jetties. There is accommodation and a tearoom at Kinlochhourn Farm (www.kinlochhourn.com). The situation is glorious, with steep rugged slopes rising out either side and the loch stretching out into the distance. Upper Loch Hourn is quite narrow and hemmed in by steep hills. The name means ‘loch of hell’, presumably reflecting the difficulties and dangers of navigation. The head of the loch is known as Loch Beag – ‘little loch’. The path to Barrisdale, where the loch opens out and you can look west to the Isle of Skye, runs along the south side of Loch Hourn and although always clear is often steep and muddy, as it crosses little headlands and marshy meadows. It’s wonderful walk with splendid views throughout. The distance to Barrisdale is 10km and the walk takes around 3hrs. Most people will want to stay at Barrisdale for a day or two (and I certainly recommend this – it’s too beautiful a place to breeze through) but the walk can be continued on a good path over 450m Mam Barrisdale and down Gleann an Dubh-Lochain to Inverie, a distance of 13km, with 500m of ascent, which takes around 4hrs. This walk isn’t quite as scenic as the route to Barrisdale and passes beneath slopes which, for Knoydart, are rather plain and featureless.

Ladhar Bheinn

Scrambling on Ladhar Bheinn

Ladhar Bheinn (1020m) is generally recognised as one of the most superb mountains in Scotland. It’s the westernmost Munro on the mainland and forms a ragged-edged V or arrowhead shape, with a long southeast to northwest ridge, on which the summit lies, and an equally long subsidiary northeast to southwest and west ridge. On the north side long narrow rocky spurs run out between deep craggy corries above the dark waters of Loch Hourn, a magnificent wild sight. The south side is unbroken and of less interest. The name, which means ‘hoof’ or ‘claw mountain’, probably comes from the shape of the corries and spurs. Peter Drummond in Scottish Hill Names: Their Origin and Meaning (Scottish Mountaineering Trust, 2nd revised edition, 2007) points out that the word order, with Bheinn unusually coming second, is Norse, showing whose territory this once was.
The finest route on Ladhar Bheinn is the circuit of spectacular Coire Dhorrcail from Barrisdale, starting with the ascent of Creag Beithe, the easternmost of the northward trending ridges, from the path into the corrie. This ridge leads to a steep Grade 1 scramble up Stob a’Chearcaill, which looks impressively steep and elegant from Barrisdale, and then continues on to the summit of Aonach Sgoilte (‘split ridge’), at the apex of the arrowhead. The route turns onto the main ridge here and descends to the Bealach Coire Dhorrcail from where it ascends over rocky knolls to the summit, which is some 300m before the 10m lower trig point. Descent can be made over Stob a’Choire Odhair, which is steep and quite exposed, and down Druim a’Choire Odhair from where you can drop into the mouth of Coire Dhorcail. Throughout the circuit there are superb views of the cliffs of Coire Dhorrcail and out across Loch Hourn. The distance is 15km, with 1400m of ascent, and takes 6–8hrs. Under snow and ice this is a serious expedition with some exposed sections.

Winter Climbing on Ladhar Bheinn

Ladhar Bheinn’s cliffs are vegetated and loose, making them unattractive for rock climbing. However in winter conditions there are many highly rated climbs, dating right back to 1897 when Harold Raeburn climbed the big gully in Coire Dhorrcail now named after him. Since then many climbs of different grades have been made, ranging in length from 200 to 350m. However the remoteness of Ladhar Bheinn and the unpredictability of the weather, with good winter conditions rare, mean that few climbers actually venture onto its cliffs.

Sgurr Coire Choinnichean

Rising from the shores of Inverie Bay Sgurr Coire Choinnichean appears as a conical peak when viewed from the ferry or Inverie. However this is the end-on view. From the side it’s a long flat-topped ridge, the end, in fact, of the 5.5km long ridge running southwest from Ladhar Bheinn that forms the southern wall of Gleann na Guiserein. Sgurr Coire Choinneachan can be most easily climbed via the corrie of the same name. A band of dense forestry covers the lower slopes above Inverie. To get through this take the track heading north towards the Mam Uidhe until out of the trees, then climb east into Coire Choinneachan then southeast to the narrow southwest ridge, which is followed to the summit (7.5km, 790m ascent, 2–3hrs). Sgurr Coire Choinneachan is marvellously situated with tremendous views of mountains on three sides and the sea and islands on the other. The walk can be continued onto Ladhar Bheinn via the Mam Suidheig and the Aonach Sgoilte, another 8km and 950m of ascent.

Beinn na Caillich

To the northwest of Ladhar Bheinn lies remote Beinn na Caillich. The two summits are linked by 6km of complex terrain, with a low point on the Mam Li at 665m. To climb Beinn na Caillich take the Mam Uidhe track from Inverie, then the eastern fork into Gleann na Guiserein, from where the southern slopes of Meall Coire an t-Searraich can be ascended and the ridge followed northeast to Beinn na Caillich (10km, 900m, ascent, 3–4hrs). The view of Ladhar Bheinn and Loch Hourn is excellent.

The Circuit of Gleann na Guiserein

One of the finest long hillwalks in Knoydart is the circuit of upper Gleann na Guiserein over Beinn na Caillich, Ladhar Bheinn and Sgurr Coire Choinnichean. From Inverie this involves 27km of distance and 2415m of ascent, much of it on very rough terrain. It could be split over two days with a high camp en route.

Luinne Bheinn and Meall Buidhe

Ladhar Bheinn is the finest mountain in Knoydart but the true heart of the region lies in the complex terrain, containing Luinne Bheinn (939m) and Meall Buidhe (946m) that lies between Gleann Meadail in the southwest, Gleann an Dubh-Lochain in the northwest, Gleann Unndalain in the northeast and the River Carnoch glen in the southeast. This is some of the roughest country in Scotland, a mass of rocks, crags, gullies, tussocks and knolls. Ridges twist and turn in every direction and route finding can be difficult even in clear weather. Meall Buidhe is the biggest in area of the two hills, and forms the north wall of Gleann Unndalain. The summit itself is not particularly distinctive, and the grandeur of the mountain lies in its overall size and ruggedness rather than its shape. Luinne Bheinn, which forms the southwest wall of Gleann Meadail, is smaller in area, with a better defined summit that appears as an elegant steep cone from some places, such as Lochan nam Breac to the southeast.

The two Munros can be climbed together from Inverie or Barrisdale or, on a multi-day trip, from Loch Nevis. From Inverie take the path to Gleann Meadail then climb the long western ridge of Meall Buidhe to the summit, from where there is a splendid view across Choire Odhair to Luinne Bheinn. The route now follows the convoluted edge of Choire Odhair to Luinne Bheinn via the east top of Meall Buidhe, the Bealach Ile Coire, Meall Coire na Gaoithe‘n Ear and Luinne Bheinn’s east top. The views from Luinne Bheinn are superb, back across Choire Odhair to Meall Buidhe, north to Ladhar Bheinn, southeast to Ben Aden and Sgurr na Ciche and west to the Cuillin on Skye. From Luinne Bheinn descend the northwest ridge to the Mam Barrisdale, then take the path down Gleann an Dubh-Lochain back to Inverie. This walk is 26km long, with 1800m of ascent, so at least 8–9hrs should be allowed, especially given the rough terrain and the difficult navigation.

Beinn Buidhe

Opposite Meall Buidhe lies huge Beinn Buidhe (855m), forming the south wall of Gleann Meadail. This mountain is some 7km long in a straight line but considerably longer to walk, as its long ridge forms a shallow curve round a succession of corries that bite into the rocky northern flanks. To the south more uniform, less interesting slopes run down to Loch Nevis. There are a series of summits on the ridge, the highest lying just about in the centre. The shortest ascent route is up the ridge from the west, returning the same way, but it’s much better to traverse the whole ridge. From Inverie follow Gleann Meadail to the Mam Meadail, then turn southwest and ascend the first peak on the Beinn Buidhe ridge, 718m Meall Bhasiter. A typically Knoydart, undulating walk over rough terrain now leads for almost 3km to the summit of Beinn Buidhe. Continue on along the ridge another 2km to Sgurr Coire nan Gobhar (787m). The ridge divides here. Take the branch running north to Sgurr nam Feadam, then descend west to Loch Bhraomisaig, from where you can head north again to a bridge over the Inverie River and the track back to Inverie. All the way along the ridge there are magnificent views down to Loch Nevis and to the sharp spire of Sgurr na Ciche rising at its head. The traverse of the ridge from Inverie is 22km long, with 1500m of ascent, and takes 7–8hrs.

Sgurr a’Choire-bheithe, Sgurr nan Eugallt and Slat Bheinn

A 10km long, rugged and steep-sided ridge called Druim Chosaidh stretches from Loch Quoich to Barrisdale Bay. Sgurr a’Choire-bheithe (913m) is the highest point on this ridge. To the north across Glen Barrisdale and Gleann Cosaidh a ridge of equal length, ruggedness and steepness forms a great curve between upper Loch Hourn and Loch Quoich. Slat Bheinn is a squat little peak lying between the two Corbetts. The three peaks can be climbed together in a two day backpack, or one long, tough day from either Barrisdale or Coireshubh on the road between Loch Quoich and Loch Hourn, from where a stalkers’ path climbs to 500m on Sgurr nan Eugallt. The whole route is 25km long, with 2525m of ascent, and would take a strong walker 9–10hrs. The terrain is the usual Knoydart mix of crags, gullies, knolls and bogs and the route-finding is complex in places. The rocks can be scrambled over or mostly avoided by the careful selection of grassy rakes. The three summits all offer splendid views. From Sgurr nan Eugallt Lochs Hourn and Quoich look big and distant, shining far below. Ladhar Bheinn rising as a slanting ridge above the steep walls of Coire Dhorrcail is the most impressive mountain in view. Note that the actual high point on Sgurr nan Eugallt (898m) is some 600m northwest of the trig point. Slat Bheinn (700m), a blocky peak ringed by little crags and shattered rock ridges, gives views of the massive southwest and northeast walls of the two higher peaks, as well as Ladhar Bheinn and Loch Quoich. Sgurr a’Chouire-bheithe has similar views to Sgurr nan Eugallt, although not quite as fine in my view.

Meall nan Eun

Meall nan Eun (928m) may be dwarfed by the bigger peaks round about and easy to overlook but it’s ascent is well worthwhile, as it has arguably the best view of Loch Hourn and one of the finest of Ladhar Bheinn. Meall nan Eun is situated immediately south of upper Loch Hourn, just east of the narrows of Caolas Mor, and its steep northern slopes can be quickly climbed from the path to Barrisdale (2.7km, 667m ascent and 2–3hrs for the return trip). A longer circuit can be made from Loch Hourn via the minor summits of Carn Mairi (502m), Beinn Bhuidhe (569m) and An Caisteal (622m) (8km, 975m ascent, 3–5hrs).