Aconcagua: Highest Trek in the World - A Trekker's Guidebook

Complete guide to climbing Aconcagua (6962m), highest peak outside the Himalayas and one of the most accessible. Route descriptions up the Normal and Vacas Valley (Polish Glacier) routes, plus trekking routes in the Argentinian and Chilean southern Andes. Copious practical information on preparation and strategies for the ascent.

The Attraction for Climbers

The mountain of Aconcagua in the southern Andes is the highest peak in the world outside the Himalayas, and the highest of the seven continental summits after Everest. Of the seven summits, Aconcagua offers the climber the best value in terms of altitude gained for effort expended.

Over the past decade the pursuit of climbing and hillwalking has attracted more and more enthusiasts. Travel to far-off places has become less onerous. Mountain guides clog the Internet with advertisements of their adventure holidays. For those who tire of the commonplace, goals such as Kilimanjaro (Tanzania), Island Peak (Nepal) and Aconcagua are there to provide the adventure.

Aconcagua is seen as an essential stepping-stone for those with eyes on the big prize – Everest. However, the serious alpinist will have to rub shoulders with the adventurous trekker. The purist might contend that climbing in double plastic boots, with crampons and an ice axe, in temperatures of -20°C, can hardly be classified as a trek.  Neverthless, certain routes on Aconcagua require very little technical skill, and provide valuable high-altitude experience.

The area of South America in which Aconcagua is situated is quite civilised, transport is good, and there is an established infrastructure for mountain access. There are no ‘nasties’ in the region, such as snakes, mosquitoes or wild cats. The people are friendly, food is great and language is not a particular barrier. The region has many other attractions, such as the vineyards of Chile and Mendoza, white-water rafting, the beach at Vina del Mar, rodeos and numerous other items of scenic and cultural interest.

Lest the impression be conveyed that Aconcagua is a bed of roses the following caution is appropriate. The mountain is bleak and harsh. The winds on Aconcagua can be unrelenting, the temperatures severe. The incidence of failure due to the effects of altitude and weather is particularly high. Many climbers arrive unprepared for the cold and altitude, and repeat visits are common. Chile and Argentina are not third world countries, so costs are higher than in Nepal or Africa (but a fraction of those in Europe and North America).

There are no less than 164 peaks in the Himalayas that have greater altitudes than Aconcagua. In the Americas Aconcagua tops a list of 43 peaks, all in South America, ahead of Denali (McKinley) in Alaska.

Alpinists consider Aconcagua to be much more difficult than a large proportion of its Himalayan cousins due to its harsh environment, unpredictable weather, the dreaded Canaleta scree slope that must be overcome at 6800m, and the long distance to base camp. The relative distance of Aconcagua from the equator, compared to the Himalayas, is a factor in terms of weather and altitude. The further one travels from the equator the thinner is the earth’s atmosphere.

ACONCAGUA IN CONTEXT

The Highest Mountains of the Seven Continents

Continent	Mountain	Height (m/ft)
Asia	Everest	8850/29,035
South America	Aconcagua	6962/22,841
North America	Denali	6194/20,320
Africa	Kilimanjaro	5963/19,563
Europe	Elbrus	5633/18,481
Antarctica	Vinson Massif	4897/16,066
Oceania	Puncak Jaya	4884/16,023

The 12 Highest Peaks in the Americas

Mountain	Height m/ft	Country
Aconcagua	6962/22,842	Argentina
Ojos del Salado	688022,573	Argentina–Chile
Pissis	6779/22,242	Argentina
Mercedario	6770/22,212	Argentina
Huascarán	6768/22,206	Peru
Llullaillaco	6723/22,058	Argentina–Chile
Sin Nombre	6637/21,776	Argentina–Chile
Yerupajá	6634/21,766	Peru
Tres Cruces	6620/21,720	Argentina–Chile
Coropuna	6613/21,697	Peru
Incahuasi	6601/21,658	Argentina–Chile
Tupungato	6550/21,491	Argentina–Chile

Two Trekking Routes

Every mountain has a diversity of routes to the summit. Aconcagua is no exception, and the majority are categorised as extremely difficult. However, there are two routes requiring minimal technical expertise, and these are described in detail in this book, with a brief reference to the route around to the north via Plaza Guanaco and the more advanced direct route up the Polish Glacier.

Over 70 per cent of all climbers take the Normal route, also known as the Horcones Valley route. The approach is from the south, 35km over a rough river valley to base camp at Plaza de Mulas. From here the route swings around to the east, over steep ground, eventually turning directly south to the summit.

The second popular trekking route is known as the Vacas Valley route, but is also commonly known as the Polish Glacier route. It is 42km from the road head to base camp at Plaza Argentina. Initially the direction is, like the Normal route, due north for 26km, then a left turn to the west, and a further 16km up the Relinchos river valley.

Both routes join high up the mountain, below a small ruined hut called Independencia, at 6250m.

Via the Normal route the summit will be visible for much of the journey to base camp, whereas on the Vacas Valley route it only comes into view at the left-hand turn after 26km. The average time (subject to acclimatisation) to the summit and back to the road head is 12 days via the Normal route, and 15 days on the Vacas Valley route.

At base camp (Plaza de Mulas) on the Normal route there is a hotel, fairly basic in comforts, but it does have a telephone link to the outside world. There are no such luxuries at Plaza Argentina. Nevertheless, the Vacas Valley route is less crowded and more picturesque. Consequently there is more birdlife, and even the possibility of seeing some wild guanacos.

The Vacas Valley route is tougher and longer. However, for those not acclimatised, this pays dividends as you will be better prepared for summit day. A better option is to acclimatise on another mountain, such as at Vallecitos (between Mendoza and Aconcagua – see page 108) or El Plomo (between Santiago and Aconcagua – see page 135), then tackle Aconcagua via the Normal route.

Location

Aconcagua is entirely within the Republic of Argentina, very close to the border with Chile. Halfway south to the middle of Chile and below the Tropic of Capricorn, it is in the province of Mendoza and the department of Las Heras.

The Aconcagua Provincial Park is immediately off the main road that links the cities of Mendoza in Argentina and Santiago in Chile. Of the 13 passes over the Andes between the two countries this is the only paved road. On the southern side of the road lies another of Mendoza’s provincial parks – Tupungato Provincial Park.

The nearest village on the main road is Puente del Inca, which is 15km inside the Argentina/Chile border, 186km from Mendoza and 169km from Santiago. Between the starting points of the two trekking routes lies the village of Los Penitentes, a ski resort with a cable car (closed during the summer) up to the mountains.