Guidebook to The Teesdale Way

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
• Reviews
• Further Reading

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Stage 4 - Barnard Castle to Gainford

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10.4 miles (17km)

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Downstream from Barnard Castle the Tees enters a particularly romantic phase with numerous literary and artistic associations. Passing Egglestone Abbey and Rokeby Park, it joins the River Greta at the famous Meeting of the Waters. Countryside to the north and south begins to open out so that the moorlands which have flanked the Tees for most of the Way so far are replaced by spacious fields. Throughout this stage, beautiful deciduous woodland continues to provide a feast of colour and texture.

Walk downhill from the Market Cross past 16th-century Blagraves House where Oliver Cromwell is reputed to have lodged in 1648; at the bottom of The Bank turn left along Gray Lane (opposite the main road’s sharp right-hand bend). Straight ahead this becomes a track over the grassy Desmesnes Open Space. The onward path loops behind the Desmesnes Mill, then returns to the riverbank outside a sewage treatment works fence and continues past an ancient cliff line set back on the left.  

Along here are fine views across to Egglestone Abbey, set on a natural terrace above the river. Founded for a small community of monks from Easby Abbey near Richmond in 1195, it was twice plundered in the 14th century and many of its original buildings were destroyed during the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1540. Sir Walter Scott immortalised Egglestone Abbey in his romantic poem Rokeby but by then - 1812 - it was already a total ruin:

The reverend pile lay wild and waste,
Profaned, dishonour’d and defaced,
Through storied lattices no more
In soften’d light the sunbeams pour,
Gilding the Gothic sculpture rich
Of shrine and monument and niche.

Looked after today by English Heritage, the ruins are open to the public at any reasonable hour and there is no admission charge. A riverside approach along the south bank, off the B6277, will take you en route over an interesting example of a medieval packhorse bridge crossing Thorsgill Beck.

Ignore a track forking up left and follow the path into the woods. The Tees here is constricted in a rocky channel and the path, too, becomes tortuous and awkward underfoot for a while before emerging at the country road and Abbey Bridge; cross over and immediately turn left at a Teesdale Way fingerpost. The path zig-zags down to river level where you get a splendid view of the graceful, single-arch bridge.

It was built by J.B.S. Morritt in 1773 and until around the 1950s travellers were charged a toll at the southern bank where the collector and his family lived; their dwellings have long since been demolished.

Hereabouts the Tees flows in a solid rock trench - mostly limestone and marble. John Leland, a 16th-century writer, noted that ‘hard under the cliff by Egglestone is found on each side of Tees very fair marble, wont to be taken up both by marbelers of Barnardes Castelle and of Eglestone’. Quarried and fashioned by local craftsmen, ‘Teesdale Marble’ became the material for numerous decorative and functional artefacts, including the font in Barney’s Parish Church of St Mary.

The well-made path continues east with handgates along the riverbank, crosses Manyfold Beck and climbs steps to a field edge. Ahead you cross a stile and turn right into a lovely beech wood known as ‘Paradise’. Reaching the minor road from Barney at a corner, turn left along a lane at the northern boundary of Rokeby Park.

It was through his friendship with John Bacon Morritt during the early 1800s that Walter Scott and his wife twice stayed at Rokeby Hall, the Morritt family seat. In his 30,000 word poem Rokeby, published in 1813, Scott waxes lyrical about the many beauties of mid-Teesdale. In a verse referring to the little valley of Thorsgill Beck near Egglestone Abbey, Scott reminds us of Teesdale’s Viking past:

To Odin’s son and Spifia’s spouse,
Near Startforth high they paid their vows,
Remember’d Thor’s victorious fame
And gave the dell the Thunderer’s name.

Rokeby Hall itself, a Palladian-style mansion, houses a unique collection of 18th-century needlework pictures, period furniture and a print room. Throughout the 19th century, Velasquez’s famous painting 'The Rokeby Venus' remained at the Hall; it is now in London’s National Gallery. (Rokeby Hall opening times: May Bank Holiday, then each Monday and Tuesday from Spring Bank Holiday until first Tuesday in September – 2pm to 5pm. Enquiries phone (01833) 637334.)

Where the lane curves right at the Tees’ confluence with the River Greta (from ‘Griota’, Nordic for ‘stony stream’), you have arrived at Meeting Of The Waters.

In normal conditions it is possible to scramble down the bank onto ledges of rock in the Greta’s bed to savour this picturesque spot so beloved of artists and writers for generations past. (It is interesting to note that floods in 1987 redistributed the massive boulders.)

The painter J.M.W. Turner made no fewer than four tours through the Dales of northern England; his last, in 1831, was specifically to illustrate sites associated with Sir Walter Scott and inspired his celebrated work Meeting of the Waters. Turner travelled on horseback from inn to inn, relishing the variety of weather conditions and light as he sketched villages, rivers, waterfalls and historic buildings. Among other local scenes he depicted are Egglestone Abbey, Barnard Castle, Greta Bridge, Brignall and High Force. He probably stayed at the Morritt Arms, Greta Bridge, a mile away to the south.

One of the finest walks off the Teesdale Way explores the wild Greta gorge. It takes in the little abandoned church of St Mary and Brignall Mill but does involve more challenging terrain along the steep, heavily wooded valley sides. See Circular Walk No. 6.

You now follow the lane round over Dairy Bridge where the Greta splashes mysteriously from a deep tunnel of tree shade. And then, across grassy parkland to the right, appears Mortham Tower. This imposing 15th-century castellated manor house incorporates the most southerly of all the fortified peel towers that are such a feature of Scottish border country.

Instead of continuing on the lane round to Mortham Tower, walk left off the bend over to a waymarked stile. You are now at the top edge of pasture sloping gently down to the Tees, ensconced in its characteristic strip of woodland. The path passes a boulder of Shap granite, brought here from the Lake District by glaciers during the last Ice Age.

Coming round the top end of an elongated copse, turn right alongside a wall and, walking due east, pass the old ruin of West Thorpe. Soon the path switches to the other side of the wall and you go through a gate, heading half-left over a pasture field. Beyond a small wooded enclosure and a wall corner you emerge on a lane opposite Whorlton Lido, a large riverside recreation and picnic area. (Seasonal opening: daily 10am to 7pm from Easter to end Sept.) Turn left towards Whorlton’s little suspension bridge. There is a public footpath alongside the River Tees through Whorlton Lido that leads to a snack cabin and a fine view of a series of waterfalls.

The 200ft (61m) long structure supported by wrought-iron chains and stone piers was designed by John Green, an architect and engineer from Newcastle who was responsible for many other bridges in this region. It is Britain’s oldest suspension bridge relying on original chainwork. There’s a small toll-house at the northern end, no longer in use, and a vehicle weight restriction of 3 tons.

High on the Tees’ northern bank sits the pretty village of Whorlton (Bridge Inn; telephone), its broad green surrounded by several interesting 19th-century buildings. St Mary’s Church - solid Victorian Gothic - was consecrated in 1853, replacing an earlier chapel with Norman features.

There is a footpath back to Barnard Castle via the north bank and Abbey Bridge (for details please see Circular Walk No. 7).

Cross the suspension bridge and walk up the road to the left hairpin bend where the Teesdale Way continues straight on as a path dropping over Whorlton Beck on stepping stones. The river bed here is made up of long, flat ledges forming deep pools and attractive waterfalls - delightful for lazy summer days but not without danger for children and non-swimmers, especially after heavy rainfall.

Soon the path reaches an impasse of dipping ledges and vertical rocks. The Way is forced to double back left, uphill, as a stony track through woods. A right turn at the top stile sets you on a course along field headlands above the woods.

In places there are views over to the tiny hamlet of Wycliffe which can be reached by footpath from Whorlton Lido. This is almost certainly the birthplace of John Wycliffe (1320-1384), a member of the family who owned the manor there for many years. For supporting the religious cause of the English poorer classes in defiance of the established church’s wealth and power, John Wycliffe was accused of heresy, but the thrust of his crusade gathered momentum after his death, culminating in the Reformation. He is perhaps best known for translating the Bible into English.

Wycliffe’s 13th-century Church of St Mary the Virgin contains some beautiful medieval stained glass and there are memorials to the Wycliffe family, complete with biographical details, in the chancel.

A small ferry once crossed the Tees at Wycliffe, while just downstream there is a fording point at some flat rocks.

The onward path now comes round over the driveway to Graft's Farm and carries on at a high level above sloping woodland on this north bank. Opposite, the south bank is swathed in the more extensive tree cover of Wycliffe Woods and shows some impressive cliffs.

After a while you reach farmland with clear river views ahead and below in a gravelly bend of the Tees lies Dubock Pool, once used as a sheep wash. The path runs along outside a field fence before joining a track which curves north towards Osmond Croft Farm. A short distance before the buildings, take a stile on your right and continue along field headlands.

In half a mile (800m) you’ll arrive at a cluster of timber-built houses. Turn left along the access track which swings round over a stream; just beyond the last building turn right over a stile and keep above a fenced patch of land to enter scrubby woods through which the muddy path climbs to a stile. Turn right along the field edge, cross another couple of stiles and turn right onto the B6274 at Winston Bridge.

The catastrophic floods of 1771 which wreaked havoc throughout Teesdale (and incidentally in Weardale and Tynedale too) failed to damage this substantial bridge. Now over 230 years old, the 100ft (30m) single span was, in its time, one of the largest of its kind in Europe. Before the bridge was built, the old road led to Hedgeholme ford. The present road, a turnpike in the 18th century, was one of several important routes for transporting coal to Stockton’s waterfront.

A short detour north will bring you to the village of Winston either by road, or by following a path equipped with steps leading from the riverbank up through Winston Millennium Green. (Bridgewater Arms; campsite; post office/store; telephone; buses).

Like Whorlton, Winston is set well above river level. There is a wonderful view, including the bridge, from St Andrew’s Church. The building itself, dominating the eastern end of the village, is essentially 13th century in origin but much of the nave was rebuilt in 1848 by John Dobson who designed many of Newcastle’s finest buildings.

The Teesdale Way continues north-east from Winston Bridge along a clear track. In 300m keep right at a waymark post and take the left-hand route up steps and past the sewage works. After a short section of boardwalk amidst wild rhubarb, the path climbs to the A67 (access stile) but immediately angles away from the road. More boardwalk follows, then the path is weaving and undulating pleasantly close to the river itself. When you reach West Tees Bridge the Way climbs steps and turns left along the old railway trackbed. At the time of writing there is no public access onto the bridge. The trackbed belongs to the self-same dismantled railway that was briefly encountered west of Barnard Castle - the South Durham and Lancashire Union.

Saplings and undergrowth have reduced the trackbed to a narrow path which ends at the A67 (verge parking). Turn right on a pavement past a lay-by where Langley Beck is crossed and carry on up the hill. At the top, about half-way along the straight, look out for a public footpath sign on the right at a small lay-by. Initially the path dives downhill in the wrong direction but it doubles back at river level.

Just here your nose as well as your eyes will discover Gainford Spa! The upwelling of pungent, sulphurous water, channelled into an ornamental stone receptacle, was greatly valued for its healing and health-promoting properties during the late 18th century. People flocked here to take the waters and admire the tranquil scenery, some to retire permanently in the locality. Much of Gainford’s elegance and architectural interest stems from the prosperity the waters brought.

Partly paved, the riverside path heads south-east and rises to rejoin the road at another small lay-by. Turn right and walk along into Gainford (Hotels; pubs, cafe, fish & chips!; food shop with ATM; buses). Most of the village lies down minor roads to the right.

Gainford
Despite a main road running through, Gainford is one of County Durham’s most attractive villages and its three pubs - the Cross Keys, Queen’s Head and Lord Nelson - ensure a warm welcome for everyone!

There’s a story that communities on either side of the Tees once fought for ownership of a ford that existed here. Those on the north bank won (hence ‘gain ford’), while those on the south lost, despite an attempt to barricade the ford during the battle for control (hence ‘bar ford’, later Barforth).

Gainford’s Church of St Mary, a handsome 13th-century edifice incorporating many striking features, was built on the site of a much earlier 9th-century Anglo-Saxon monastery reputed to have been the last resting place of Ida, the Northumbrian chieftain. A number of sculptures found at Gainford show both Northumbrian and Viking influences, suggesting the co-existence of both cultures here in Teesdale. Examples are on display at the Monk’s Dormitory of Durham Cathedral.

Apart from the charming village green and several interesting buildings in its vicinity, Gainford Hall is worth looking at. Jacobean but restored from a virtual ruin in the 19th century, it can be found at the western end of the village.