Scrambles in the Lake District - Scrambling Routes

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
• Reviews

What is Scrambling?

The sport of scrambling is not new. The ascent of easy rocks where hands may be used is naturally satisfying and has always been enjoyed by mountaineers, in fact the ascent of the majority of Alpine peaks by their normal route involves some scrambling. Many of the Lake District scrambles have been known since Victorian times and many have been used by generations of climbers. Early climbers created routes that involved roped scrambling without today’s numerous aids to safety; high-standard rock climbing has now become so specialized that it is a sport far removed from the rock climbing of even 20 or 30 years ago, and low standard or scrambling routes are no longer relevant in a climber’s guidebook full of extremes.

It is difficult to know just where to draw the line and recognise where scrambling becomes rock climbing. Some consider scrambling ends when you need a rope, but this is so much a personal choice that one person’s easy scramble is another’s frightening climb. I regard scrambling to be an ascent of rock where the hands are necessary for progress, usually with comforting holds. There may also be a few difficult rock moves required in order to overcome an obstacle, but scrambling means never climbing up what you can’t climb down. Scramblers also need to take responsibility for their own safety and for their actions on potentially dangerous terrain, a quite different frame of mind from the modern rock climber who may yet feel exposed when venturing a few feet above a bolt or nut protection.

The Lake District scrambles use what the area has to offer and cannot compare with the extensive scrambling available in Skye or other craggier areas, so climbers expecting long, continuous rock routes may be ­disappointed. Do not expect rock climbs, more a series of rock incidents in a day on the hills. Much is left to the individual – on many of the routes it is a simple matter to bypass most of the rock and reduce the outing to a steep walk. You can also often choose to make the route more difficult by seeking steeper rock problems. I have described in this guide what I consider to be an interesting line, which if lost need not be a calamity, for you may find an equally worthy way.

Dangers

Scrambling is an adventure sport, which implies that it is dangerous. Part of the attraction of any adventure sport lies in safely overcoming potential hazards, and when scrambling this means not slipping. Unlike modern rock climbing, which is steep and generally well protected, a fall whilst scrambling, which is generally unprotected, can be very serious. You must return to the maxim followed by rock climbers before the advent of modern gear – YOU MUST NOT SLIP.

Scrambling involves ascending rock that is not usually of sustained difficulty nor steep enough to warrant the use of what are termed ‘rock-climbing’ skills. However, a word of warning: although, with care, the easier scrambles are quite within the capabilities of a wide range of people, it is worth remembering that unroped scrambling in exposed situations is potentially the most dan­gerous of all mountaineering situations.

On the more difficult scrambles the exposure is often dramatic, and it is advisable to take a rope for safety. Persons tackling these should have experience of rock climbing and the necessary belay and rope techniques to allow a safe ascent or retreat. Good judgement is needed to attempt the routes in bad weather, but an experienced climber should know just how far he or she can go on wet or greasy rock and know when to retreat. Adventurous walkers who are using this book should tackle the easiest routes only in good conditions. It is inadvisable to venture on them at all in wintry conditions, as a thin coating of ice over the easiest rocks can create an impossible and dangerous hazard. Snow and ice will turn most of the routes into serious and difficult winter climbs.

The rewards are great and the penalties severe. A recommended book, which delves into the philosophy of the subject, is Colin Mortlock’s The Adventure Alternative (Cicerone Press). Mortlock has many thought-provoking theories and divides adventure into bands. Every individual has their adventure threshold, the boundary between intense enjoyment and command of the situation, and fear that could result in misadventure. For some individuals that threshold is quite low; others need a much more gripping situation to savour the adventure. Find your threshold and keep within your own limits.

Finally, think twice before taking children on scrambles. Whilst they are often natural scramblers and show little fear, they do not possess experience or sound judgement. They need constant supervision and should be roped at all times. Also, leave your dog below for the duration of the trip. Whilst it is possible to push and pull a dog up the easiest gills, it is not fair on you or it. If left to run loose, it will run round the hazards often seeking an escape up loose and vegetated side walls, sending rocks down on the party and doing damage to the environment.

To sum up, the safest scrambler is someone with a background of many years experience of mountaineering, who can cope with rock climbing ­situations, loose or slippery rock, has a cautious approach and is not afraid of deciding that conditions render an expedition unsafe.

Equipment and Rope Techniques

When scrambling, it is recommended that you carry a rucksack, complete with all that you deem necessary – a compass, torch, some lunch, your waterproofs and a spare pair of dry socks (to put on after a gill scramble) – especially as most scrambles will be incorporated into a longer walk or a combination of scrambles. In addition, useful maps for the Lake District are the OS 1:25,000 Explorer Series, nos. OL4, OL5, OL6 and OL7. Harvey’s Superwalker maps give a clearer, simpler picture of the terrain.

Comprehensive guidance on scrambling equipment and techniques can be found in The Hillwalker’s Guide to Mountaineering by Terry Adby and Stuart Johnston (Cicerone Press). The following notes are derived from my own experience and are relevant to the particular situations encountered in the Lake District.

Useful websites are: www.ami. org.uk (the Association of Mountaineering Instructors) and www.bmg.org.uk (British Mountain Guides). Scrambling courses are often available at the National Mountain Centres of Plas y Brenin, www.pyb. co.uk, and Glenmore Lodge, www.glenmorelodge.org.uk.

Ropes, rope work and belays
Although most scrambling is done unroped, a rope should be carried by the party and must be used when the leader deems that the less confident needs assurance, when the route is extremely exposed (as on an open crag) or to protect a particularly difficult pitch. I use a rope that is 50m long and 9mm thick, which can be used double for short difficulties or single to protect less confident followers. For the grade 4 routes a double rope should be used, as in standard climbing practice. A thicker single rope may be preferred. You must allow a reasonable length of rope for abseiling out of difficulty.

The rope is of little use unless the party can be safely belayed to a firm anchorage. Modern safety techniques are not the prerogative of the climber, and the scrambler must learn the basics. To keep equipment to a minimum I prefer to tie directly to the rope with a bowline or figure-of-eight and use a waist belay; others may prefer the comfort of a harness. Trees or spikes may be used as anchors, but more often these are lacking and a nut belay must be inserted into a crack of a suitable width. To this end a selection of three or four varying sized nuts, tape slings and karabiners (including screw-gate karabiners for belaying) should be carried in the party. One of the slings should be a long tape that can also serve as an abseil sit-sling. There is no need to clutter oneself with the excessive hardware commonly used in modern rock climbing.

Needless to say, anyone unfamiliar with the techniques required to use this equipment must study a basic rock-climbing instruction book and practice. However, do not be put off – the ­placement of a firm belay is largely a matter of common sense and the rope handling requirements are quickly learned. The best way of learning is either from an experienced friend or a qualified mountain guide or instructor.

If the leader is highly competent and will not fall, the rope is there to stop the slips of less confident members of the party. Remember, a scrambling slip is more likely to result in a fall over easy-angled or broken rock than the steep free-falls of genuine rock climbing, and this means scramblers’ falls are more likely to result in injury than a climber falling off a steep crag.

Helmets
Wearing a helmet is undoubtedly safer but many people accept the risk and go without one. However, modern helmets are so light that there is no reason to avoid using one. If a rope is used, again take care that it does not flick any loose stones onto those below.

Footwear
Scrambling is usually done in boots or all-terrain footwear that have a semi-stiff sole and narrow welt. The best have some lateral rigidity in the sole – good quality approach shoes are a popular choice. Avoid dangerous, cheap bendy boots sold in many non-specialist shops and instead choose your boots carefully; secure footwear is a vital safety factor. It may be tempting to use specialist rock boots, but smooth soles are dangerous on grass, which is often encountered on a scramble. Socks (preferably old woollen ones) over the top of approach shoes can be useful in certain circumstances, particularly in a greasy gill. Trainers are not recommended although some people find it easier to take socks over the top of them than boots. If this is the case, trainers should be used as an additional aid and not as a substitute for boots.

First aid kit
Someone in the party should carry and know how to use a first aid kit in order to deal with any minor injury. In case of major accidents that require assistance from Mountain Rescue, use the nearest telephone or a mobile (if there is an adequate signal). Dial 999 and ask for the police.