The Tour of the Matterhorn - A trekker's guidebook

• Location
• Description
• Contents
• Introduction
• Sample Route
• Maps
• Updates
• Reviews
• Further Reading

The mountain on page 21 is definitely the Pigne d"Arolla in the val D'Herens and not the Bishorn above the Turtmanntal as the caption says. Apologies from Cicerone and Hilary and thanks to Richard Hills for keeping an eye on us.

Update Summer 2008, revision to Stage 1, Zermatt to St Niklaus

From Tufteren, the author has revised the route description (from page 83) as follows, to reflect changes on the ground:

"(If taking the Sunnegga lift come out of the lift. There is a gondola lift which takes off from just below the lift station. Walk under this and look down to an obvious flat track with a signpost. Go down to this and Tufteren is signposted right. Go along this pleasant track which is flat and bordered by larch and spruce. It soon reaches the hamlet of Tufteren.)

The Europaweg is signposted at a junction just above the buildings of Tufteren. The path rises gently then flattens out, heading around the hillside. There are several junctions but the Europaweg or the Europahütte are generally indicated. On this early part of the walk the other landmark to look out for is Ottovan/Täschalp. Good views of Obergabelhorn and Rothorn.

The junction I had previously noted in the guidebook is now less obvious - it is on a bend but you would not go right because that way is little used. The path descends a little to then continue it's way around towards the hillside. Ahead a landslide can be seen down a slope - this is typical of what happens to the hillside on this walk - many slopes are raked by avalanche and the path gets wiped out. Landslides are also relatively common in heavy rain. This landslide is the other side of the deep valley which cuts into the hillside up to Ottovan/Täschalp and our path turns the corner and undulates along towards this hamlet.

Once there the trail hits the road for a short while before a signed path is taken off on the right - gives 3hr 20 to Europahütte. This briefly goes uphill before once again traversing around - good views of the Matterhorn on left. It is at times exposed and there are always cables on the exposed parts - there is a section of descent with ropes on both sides then long traverses protected where necessary. A river is crossed and it is clear that the path has to be re-made regularly - each time at a lower level. There are a series of tunnels on the trail interspersed with platforms to protect walkers from rockfall on the exposed slopes. One slope features 4 tunnels which must have been a huge amount of work to construct.

There is a bouldery section and at one point whilst ascending a trail through boulders in the woods be careful not to miss a right hand switchback - lots of people have missed it and initially the way on (which is wrong) looks quite worn. The switchbacks lead to a junction where there is a path down to Randa.

Eventually a deep ravine is crossed by a bridge, followed by a roped section before a tunnel with a light switch on the right-hand side. After this you can see the Europahütte and think you're nearly there. However,  soon after there is a misleading signpost. The upper path is signed to Gruen Garten, the middle path to the Europaweg and the lower path to Randa. However, there is no lower path. It feels wrong to follow the lower of the two options as this descends but this is correct. I think the higher path previously led to the Europahütte but the continuation of this trail has been destroyed by erosion. Not far down the lower path there is a sign left to Randa and the Europahütte is signed right. Soon after there is another sign left to Randa. Our trail crosses the slope and the hut can be seen above. A few zigzags lead up to the original trail where there is a sign for the hut and also for the Domhütte path. This deviation probably adds on only about 100m of climbing but it feels hard at this stage of the walk, especially because the hut has been visible for some time.

After the hut there is a nice flat traverse which leads to a wobbly suspension bridge. I presume this is wobbly so as to survive avalanche activity - it certainly doesn't seem very stable. The old path and bridge can be seen some way above.

Another spur is turned and there is a sign to Grächen 4hr30. Ahead the path is all too obvious - big sweeping zigzags lead upwards to eventually cross a rocky slope and pick up the traverse line again. From now on there are a lot of rocky sections and there are lots of sections where the path will clearly have to be remade almost on a yearly basis. It is really well waymarked but this is a massive task.

A signed path descends to Herbriggen, after which the rocks go on and on. There are not many safe places to stop - any location for a rest or snack break should be chosen carefully - choose a grassy area and look up to see what is above before settling in. The Matterhorn, which had disappeared from view just before the Europahütte now reappears.

After much teetering from rock to rock (anyone who enjoys unstable boulder slopes will have a field day here) the path zigzags down and back up to a sign to Grächen 2hr40 and going the other way the Europahûtte 2hr20 and Zermatt 8hr30. After more rockiness a sign is reached going right to the Bordierhütte 2hr. The big grassy area can be seen when St Bernard is waiting for us. It is a pleasure for tired feet to reach this and enjoy the softness of grass rather than rocks. The view up the Gasenried Gorge is spectacular.

Go and pay your respects to St B before heading down to pick up the path at a signpost: 1hr 50 to Grächen, 2hr20 to St Niklaus; going the other way, 3hr30 to the Europahütte and 9hr40 to Zermatt. So it's still quite a hike to the end and the descent is a killer for tired knees. However, if it hurts going down imagine going up!! And the whole thing is helped if the abundant alpenrose is in flower.

Some way down the descent into the woods there is a sign to the Bordierhütte on the right. At a welcome flat track Grächen is signed right but if you're going on down to St. Niklaus you have to keep up the steep descent. The path is a bit vague at times but generally signed. It picks up some road near the bottom which is not very welcome but finally comes out at a covered bridge over the river and in to the village."