GR20 – Corsica
GR20 – Corsica
Price
£12.95
Stage 3 - Refuge de Carozzu to Haut Asco
This is a tough day's walk and there are no easier alternatives. Only minutes after leaving the Refuge de Carozzu there is a steep and rugged descent into the Spasimata gorge. After crossing a suspension footbridge, walkers have to pick their way up the Spasimata Slabs. Although cables have been fixed to the rock, most of the slabs are unprotected. Be warned that the slabs can be slippery when wet, and even a light frost will make them treacherous. A steep and rocky ascent, sometimes holding snow well into the summer, leads to a high rocky gap. After a traverse across the steep face of Muvrella to reach another gap, there is a bird's-eye view of the ski-station at Haut Asco. The descent is very steep and rugged, taking longer than you might imagine to complete, but on reaching the ski-station you are rewarded with abundant food and drink, and a choice of accommodation.
Distance: 6km (3¾ miles)
Total Ascent: 860m (2280 feet)
Total Descent: 710m (2330 feet)
Time: 5½ hours
Map: IGN 4250 OT
Nature of Terrain: The steep and bare Spasimata Slabs need special care, especially when wet, and should be avoided when icy. A long, steep and rugged ascent is followed by a long descent on rocky and stony slopes.
Shelter: There are tall trees offering shade at the start and finish, but the highest parts are across open and exposed rocky mountainsides.
Food and Drink: Water is available in rivers on the early part of the ascent, but there is none on the higher parts or on the descent. Haut Asco offers plenty of food and drink, and the opportunity to replenish food supplies.
Leave the Refuge de Carozzu as signposted for Asco and Bonifatu. After only a few paces reach a path junction in the trees and turn left as signposted for Asco. Birch trees give way to stately laricio pines, maritime pines and arbutus scrub. A cable protects one part of the route, where inclined slabs of rock are crossed. A rugged stretch of path leads down to the Ruisseau de Spasimata, where a metal suspension footbridge spans the river. It is a very wobbly bridge, especially if you are carrying a big pack. The altitude is around 1220m (4000ft). The pool beneath the bridge is a popular bathing spot for weary walkers in hot weather, and indeed, many motorists climb from the road end at Bonifatu to reach it.
A bouldery path climbs to the left, then the trees thin out and walkers start crossing the sloping Spasimata Slabs high above the river. Some of the slabs are protected with cables, but only on this first stretch of the route. In dry conditions the cables are superfluous, but in wet weather the slabs can be greasy and the cables prove more useful. Do not cross the slabs if there is snow or ice present. Find a safe stance and marvel at your surroundings – sheer rock walls and pinnacles rise all around, and a few isolated laricio pines appear to grow from solid rock on the cliffs.
There may be an inflowing watercourse and a little shade in hot weather, then more slabs have to be climbed, this time without the benefit of cables. Look out for unusual plants cowering in cracks, especially saxifrages. After passing a tall, dead laricio pine, you may feel that there are no more slabs. In fact, there is one final series, then turn a bend in the valley and enjoy a fine view of a waterfall down to the left, which may be the last place to obtain water. The path climbs into a wooded side-valley, steep and stony underfoot, with juniper scrub all around. Watch as the path suddenly switches to the right, climbing uphill beside a rocky rib. Also look out for a small, cool cave on the right, offering shade on a hot day.
The path roughly contours across the valley side, passing through alder scrub where slender mountain ash also grows. After crossing the valley, climb a path that is alternately rocky and stony. Watch for the markers and generally walk between the tree scrub and the rock walls to the left. Keep climbing until directed up onto a rocky ridge, then walk above a little rocky hollow containing Lac de la Muvrella at 1860m (6100ft). The water here is stagnant and should not be used for drinking. Big boulders around the lake offer shade and it might be a good place for a break before tackling the next part of the climb. Walkers should reach the lake some 3 hours after leaving the Refuge de Carozzu.
Note that the next stretch can be covered in snow well into the summer. It is a north-facing gully full of boulders and broken rock. Zigzag up through the gully to reach a narrow, rocky gap around 2000m (6560ft). The towering peak of a Muvrella partly overhangs the gap, on the left-hand side, and walkers can take a break to admire this nearby feature, as well as the more distant view. Turn right to leave the gap and scramble round a rocky corner, then turn sharp left and head downhill across the slope, scrambling on rock at times, as well as across slopes of juniper and alder scrub. Be sure to keep left at a path junction to reach another narrow gap, the Bocca a i Stagni, around 2010m (6595ft). Walkers should reach this gap within an hour of leaving Lac de la Muvrella. (See the section after ‘Ponte Leccia’ for details of the old course of the GR20, which leaves this gap and avoids Haut Asco completely.)
Cross the gap and walk down a steep and stony path, watching carefully for markers, especially when there are rocky sections to be negotiated. The route shifts from side to side across the rocky valley, and although the complex of buildings at Haut Asco are visible, they don't seem to move any closer! In fact, it takes about 1½ hours to complete the descent. In the lower part of the valley the buildings are lost from sight, and the path runs along the base of a sheer cliff, where there is usually good shade. A final bouldery slope covered in laricio pines leads down to a wide dirt road beside some chalets. Turn left, then right as indicated by paint flashes, to drop down to the buildings at Haut Asco.
Haut Asco
The Haut Asco ski-station is located at 1422m (4665ft), and it is difficult to imagine the winter ski season while the valley acts as a heat trap in the summer. Many walkers who reach this point, especially those who have been struggling, yearn to take a day off. Those with more time and energy to spare can contemplate an ascent of Monte Cinto (see the second next section for details). A few walkers, sadly, will have had enough and feel unable to face another day on the trail, and will be looking for a quick exit down the valley.
Accommodation There is a choice of accommodation at Haut Asco. The most luxurious lodgings are at the fairly basic Hôtel le Chalet, tel 04 95 47 81 08, which has 22 rooms and also operates a gîte d'étape with 25 beds. The PNRC Refuge Asco-Stagnu is a fine building offering 32 beds. Camping is available around the foot of the ski-lifts and campers can pay for the use of some of the facilities provided by the hotel or refuge.
Food and Drink Most walkers will be happy to frequent the bar and restaurant at the Hôtel le Chalet, sampling good Corsican food and drink, and may feel tempted to take a day off and indulge themselves further. A more limited choice of snack food and drinks is available at Snack l'Altore across the car park. When the time comes to leave, food supplies can be obtained either from the hotel bar, or from the GR20 Ravitaillement shack operated by the gardien of the Refuge Asco-Stagnu.
Transport Haut Asco is at the end of the 30km (19 mile) long D147 that links with regular bus and rail services at Ponte Leccia. A taxi along this road would cost a fortune. During the peak summer season there are two navette services per day, except Sundays, linking with trains at Ponte Leccia and operated by Autocars Grisoni Voyages, tel 04 95 38 20 74 or mobile 06 07 47 55 87 or 06 73 86 16 52. These services also allow walkers to enjoy a mini-break at the precariously stacked mountain settlement of Asco village, overlooking the dramatic Gorges de Asco.
Ponte Leccia
Those who leave the GR20 at Haut Asco will need to link with onward bus and rail services at Ponte Leccia, or spend the night in the village. The place is surprisingly busy, as most of the traffic around the northern half of Corsica passes through it at some point, and people often change buses and trains there. The main historical attraction is the graceful, 17th-century Genoese four-arched stone bridge from which the village takes its name, while the Domaine Vico vineyard is popular with visitors. There is a post office and a bank with an ATM. Those who wish to sample other outdoor activities around Corsica should visit In Terra Corsa, located beside the railway station.
Accommodation There are only two places to stay in Ponte Leccia. Le Stuart Hôtel, tel 04 95 47 61 11, is close to the Genoese bridge and has 18 rooms. The Hôtel Las Vegas, tel 04 95 47 61 59, has eight rooms and is along the main road in the direction of Corte.
Food and Drink Ponte Leccia straggles along busy main roads lined with a handful of bars and restaurants, a few shops and a supermarket, so there is no shortage of food and drink.
Transport Eurocorse Voyages run buses from Ponte Leccia to Bastia, Vizzavona and Ajaccio all year round except Sundays, tel 04 95 21 06 30, 04 95 31 73 76 or 04 95 70 13 83. Beaux Voyages run buses between Calvi and Bastia, passing Ponte Leccia, all year round except Sundays, tel 04 95 65 11 35 or 04 95 65 08 26. The CFC/SNCF railway at Ponte Lecchia links with the same places as the buses every day. Pick up a timetable from the station, or tel 04 95 46 00 97, 04 95 23 11 03, 04 95 32 80 61 or 04 95 65 00 61.
Old Course of the GR20
Originally, the GR20 omitted Haut Asco and stayed high in the mountains to cross Punta Culaghia and rub shoulders with the rocky towers of Punta Stranciacone. At the time, there was a refuge at Altore, but this was burnt to the ground, apparently to ‘encourage’ walkers to visit Haut Asco and boost business prospects for the ski station in the summer months. The old course of the GR20 is still a clear path, and strong walkers can cover the distance from the Refuge de Carozzu to the Refuge de Tighjettu, omitting the descent to Haut Asco and subsequent re-ascent, in a day. This means negotiating the Cirque de la Solitude in the hottest part of the day, when energy levels are declining. There is a saving over the two days, when compared to the main route, of 1.5km (1 mile) and 200m (655ft) of ascent.
Route Description
Instead of crossing the Bocca a i Stagni at 2010m (6595ft), keep walking straight along a narrow path, noting how the old GR20 markers have been obscured with grey paint. This only affects the first few markers, but the old red and white paint flashes are rather faded later. The path runs close to the crest, and you can look down on Haut Asco from Bocca Culaghia, at 1957m (6421ft). Continue down a sloping rock terrace to avoid a rocky summit, then follow the marked path into a rugged jumble of boulders. Watch carefully for the way up through the boulders and pass through a couple of narrow rocky gaps on the crest. Walk up a bouldery slope, onto bare rock, and head for the summit of Punta Culaghia at 2034m (6673ft). There are splendid views of the surrounding mountains, particularly Punta Stranciacone ahead.
Walk down to a gap at 1980m (6496ft) and follow an easy path across a slope of scrub. As the path climbs it passes through a rocky notch. Traverse along the foot of some cliffs, passing beneath two huge towers of rock on Punta Stranciacone. Climb to a rugged gap and drop straight down the other side, where a steep and stony path runs down into alder scrub. The gradient eases as the path swings to the right, rejoining the main course of the GR20 around 1830m (6000ft). Turn left to follow the route up to Altore.
Ascent of Monte Cinto from Haut Asco
If the thought of climbing the highest mountain in Corsica appeals, then allow all day and complete the ascent from Haut Asco. Monte Cinto rises to 2706m (8878ft) and presents a fine challenge in addition to completing the GR20. Although the route described is the usual tourist ascent, it is quite arduous, involving scrambling on rock and climbing steep slopes of scree or boulders. Clear weather is needed to make the most of the ascent, not only for views of the surrounding mountains, but also for the immediate scenery, which is often quite breathtaking. Leave all your heavy gear at Haut Asco and climb the mountain with a light day-sack, though it will still take most of the day.
Distance 12km (7½ miles) there and back
Total Ascent 1450m (4760 feet)
Total Descent 1450m (4760 feet)
Time 7 hours there and back
Map IGN 4250 OT
Nature of Terrain A forested valley walk gives way to easy scrambling on a steep and rocky slope. The higher parts of the valley feature steep and bouldery slopes, leading eventually to a high ridge. More easy scrambling over slabs and boulders leads to the summit of Monte Cinto.
Shelter Some shade in the forest at first, but none on the open slopes of the mountain. Monte Cinto is very exposed to wind and rain, in which conditions an ascent is not recommended. Its slopes can hold snow well into summer.
Food and Drink Available at Haut Asco at the start and finish. Water can be obtained from a couple of streams on the ascent.
Cross the car park in front of the Hôtel le Chalet to leave Haut Asco at 1422m (4665ft). A large sign points the way to Monte Cinto and the path passes a wooden building hidden in the trees. Note the red paint marks that show the way to Monte Cinto, as well as the orange flashes that mark the way to the neighbouring peak of Punta Minuta. A narrow path leads past laricio pines, roughly contouring across the slope. Pass a small water source, then cross a bouldery stream at a series of cascades and continue gently downhill towards the Ruisseau du Tighjettu. Walk upstream roughly parallel to the river, leaving the shade of the pines and walking through juniper, alder and spiny broom scrub on rocky ground. Turn left as marked for ‘Cinto’ and cross a wooden footbridge over the Ruisseau du Tighjettu, at 1488m (4882ft). Pause to admire the fine array of peaks around the head of the valley.
The walk becomes more difficult as it follows the red paint marks in zigzags up a steep and rocky slope. Be wary of any wet patches, where the rock can be greasy underfoot. Those who start the ascent early in the day might find good shade on the slope before the sun strikes the rock. White paint flashes indicate left and right turns, so take careful note of them. The route eventually swings round to the left to enter a high, rocky valley surrounded by towers of rock, including the ominous overhanging La Tour Penchée.
The path is quite rough and stony, and there are some short sections across bare rock. Look ahead to spot small cairns and look for evidence of a trodden path. Climb up a scree slope at the foot of massive buttresses of rock on the left-hand side of the valley, walking through juniper and alder scrub. Reach a place below Capu Borba where there is a cave under a boulder on the right, offering a bit of shade and an excuse to stop and study the rocky peaks encircling the valley. There are cairns leading across a rocky lip nearby, but don't follow them.
Keep crunching up a scree path and let the higher line of cairns lead you across a level, stony hollow around 2150m (7050ft), below the gap of Bocca Borba. Water is available off to the left, where a stream splashes downhill before vanishing into the stones. Monte Cinto rises steep and rocky above, and looks unassailable. The north-facing slopes can hold a considerable amount of snow even in summer, so proceed with caution. The line of cairns swings round to the right – look ahead to spot each one in turn, as well as red paint marks and a trodden path.
Watch for the charming little Lac d’Argentu off-route to the left. As the slope becomes steeper and rockier, a variety of paths begins to branch out and climb towards the high crest of the mountain. Choose whichever suit you best, but avoid those that run dangerously close to rocky edges. The crest is at a general level of 2600m (8530ft) near the Pointe des Eboulis and there are fine views southwards. Lac du Cinto, to the southwest, may be frozen well into the summer.
Turn left on the crest and look for more cairns and red paint marks, which lead along a course generally below the crest, on the southern side. A summit is reached at 2651m (8698ft), where a sign points out that Monte Cinto is still further along the crest, just in case you happen to reach this point in mist and assume you are already on top! Walkers must follow the arrow pointing right, then pick a way below the crest, crossing areas of big boulders below a gap, before a zigzag scramble leads up a steep, bouldery, rocky slope to the summit of Monte Cinto at 2706m (8878ft).
Take in the extensive views, with particular reference to the high mountains already passed, and those still to be passed, on the GR20. Also, take care how you pick your way back down the rocky slopes to Haut Asco. It may take about 4½ hours to climb to the summit, while the descent could be completed in only 2½ hours. There is the added incentive that the descent ends at a bar!
Recent articles:
Related titles:
Frequently Asked Questions:
