Walking in Tuscany - A Walker's Guidebook
Walking in Tuscany
Price
£14.00
1: A Stroll in the Hills Around Fiesole
Walking time: 2h + 45min prelude
Distance: 6.1km/3.8 miles
Map: on p.41, also Kompass 1:50,000 n.660 ‘Firenze-Chianti’ or Multigraphic 1:25,000 ‘Dintorni di Firenze e Mugello’ sheets 26/27
Access: Fiesole can be reached by local ATAF bus n.7 from Florence’s main railway station (8km). Those who drive up will face the fierce competition for the limited parking places in Fiesole’s main square or along the narrow side streets. The end point of the walk, Settignano, has buses (ATAF n.10) back to Florence. It is also possible to transfer to the Fiesole line by changing at Piazza di San Marco, should you opt for accommodation there, well away from the chaos of traffic-choked Florence.
After savouring the wealth of Etruscan, Roman, medieval and Renaissance monuments in this delightful hill town on the outskirts of Florence, a wander through the surrounding countryside is in order. History is quickly left behind as nature takes over on this itinerary through woods, olive groves, fields and vineyards. Clearly marked and straightforward on good tracks, the route is suitable for all walkers. There is a steady but trouble-free climb of
about 100m to the Monte Ceceri viewing point, then it’s mostly smooth descent, terminating in the quiet village of Settignano, itself a treasure trove of artistic memories
from Renaissance and later times.
Fiesole’s position some 300m above Florence is a guarantee of cooler and cleaner air, however midsummer can mean large crowds and sweltering conditions here as well.
A brief historical overview starts with the evidence of Bronze Age settlements unearthed in Fiesole, though it was the Etruscans who put it on the map around 7th century BC, during their period of expansion towards the Po plain. The site, in a commanding position between the Arno and Mugnone rivers, was probably founded as a military outpost and was the most northerly settlement of Etruria proper. The city came under Roman rule around 3rd century BC, buildings and monuments being incorporated and expanded into Roman models, the usual practice. Much later on in the early 1100s, rivalry with neighbouring Florence was the cause of wide-scale destruction. Of course Fiesole went on to flourish in Renaissance times. A curiosity: pietra serena, a blue-grey type of sandstone excavated from Monte Ceceri, was widely used for sculpted fountains as well as door and window frames; it has been estimated that a good half of the mountain was incorporated into Florentine monuments! Some 19 quarries functioned up until the 1960s.
Prelude: 45min
Before embarking on the main walk, the easy climb to the viewing point over the amazing spread of Florence is recommended. Near the cathedral in Fiesole's main square, Piazza Mino da Fiesole, take Via San Francesco. The steepish paved lane climbs past craft shops to a famous panoramic terrace where - pollution and haze permitting - Florence and its most important landmarks will be arrayed below in the broad Val d'Arno. It is worth continuing up right past the Basilica of S. Alessandro, which was constructed on an Etruscan base, to visit the church and monastery of S. Francesco, the site of the original acropolis. Instead of returning the same way, go right through the shady public gardens and downhill to the cemetery. Keep on to where Via Dupre forks left along the edge of the archaeological area. At the end, around the corner are impressive Etruscan walls in Via delle Mura Etrusche. To return to Piazza Mino, go back to the cemetery turn-off then keep straight ahead.
THE WALK
Start out in Piazza Mino da Fiesole (294m), named after the 15th-century sculptor and city son. Up in the topmost corner, the farthest away from the cathedral, take Via Verdi (red/white waymarking n.1). The narrow road passes houses and gardens and 5min uphill forks left to become Via de Montececeri, leading around east to an inspiring lookout. After a playground, Via degli Scalpellini (the stonecutter's road) takes over, soon a gravelly track south between high walls shaded by tall pines and oak trees. Past a Parco di Montececeri mapboard, continue on for the fork right for Cava Braschi. This brief detour leads to a fascinating walk-in quarry with huge columns. Thick overlying layers of marly terrain had to be cut through for the pietra serena to be reached.
Return to the fork and turn right past a cavity where pietra morta (suitable for fireplaces) was once extracted. Ignore a sharp fork left and proceed to the flat area alongside Cava Sarti, dotted with old stone huts for storing the masons' tools. Ahead a short climb leads to the cypress-bordered platform of 414m Monte Ceceri (40min) and more marvellous views over hills and countryside, villas and castles nestled amongst a rich variety of shrubs and trees. Perfect for a peaceful picnic. A stone marker commemorates Leonardo da Vinci and his early experiments with flying machines - his apprentices were apparently launched from here!
Where path n.7 drops right (for Maiano and its quarries), keep left (northeast) on n.1. The wide track dates back to 1932–3, part of the Italian Army's plan to place anti-aircraft guns on M. Ceceri; however it actually came into its own 11 years later when occupying German forces bombarded Florence. It emerges from the wood at the houses of Prato ai Pini (371m). Turn right past a camping ground for a brief stretch of tarmac downhill to an intersection, and take the right fork. Not far along, opposite a luxury hotel (Villa dei Bosconi), a red/white path veers off right (east) into pleasant shady wood. Turning right onto a wider track, it curves south past properties, traversing olive groves well beneath Castel di Poggio, and ignoring turn-offs. After a sub-station a short climb through light wood emerges on a narrow surfaced road, where you head right for the church of San Lorenzo (290m, 1h20min). Immediately after the buildings, a path off left resumes its lovely way southeast amidst farms. Lovely views can soon be enjoyed back northwest to the curious castle of Vincigliata backed by Monte Ceceri. The mock medieval citadel was faithfully reconstructed in the mid 1800s on 11th century ruins, by eccentric English gentleman Mr. Temple Leader. Its illustrious guests included Queen Victoria on 15 April 1888. A visit there led Henry James to conclude: 'The massive pastiche of Vincigliata has no superficial use, but, even if it were less complete, less successful, less brilliant, I should feel a reflective kindness for it. So disinterested and expensive a toy is its own justification; it belongs to the heroics of dilettantism'.
Continuing essentially southeast on good tracks alongside wood frequented by roe deer and boar, keep an eye out for waymarkings at the many junctions. Unsurfaced Via di Vincigliata is followed (left) for a short stretch, and leads to a house whose entrance is graced by twin cypress trees, on Poggio al Vento. Here branch left off the main track. On rather rough terrain, path n.1 drops steeply, coming out on tarmac in the vicinity of a cemetery. Keep straight ahead along Via Desiderio da Settignano then turn sharp right at an Enoteca (wine bar/restaurant) along Via S. Romano. This leads to the small square of Settignano (178m), suitably equipped with an outdoor café where bus tickets for the return trip are on sale.
Tourist Office Fiesole
tel.055/598720
Museo Civico, Zona Archeologica, Teatro Romano.
The Roman amphitheatre was built to hold up to 3000 spectators, and is still used in summer for performances during the Fiesole Festival. The Archaeological Zone also includes an Etruscan temple on the lower level and remains of Roman baths, in addition to a small museum with Etruscan bits and pieces.
Accommodation
Fiesole: Villa Le Scalette B&B tel.055/5978484
Villa dei Bosconi tel.055/59578
Villa Sorriso tel.055/59027
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