Walking in the North Pennines - Circular walks

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WALK 1
Brampton, Gelt and Talkin

Distance     15km (9½ miles)
Terrain     Gentle field paths, wooded riverside paths and quiet roads.
Start/finish     Moot Hall, Brampton – 531611
Maps    OS Landranger 86; Explorer 315
Refreshments     Plenty of choice in Brampton. Pub at Talkin. Tea room at Talkin Tarn.
Transport     Regular Arriva and Stagecoach buses, as well as trains, serve Brampton from Carlisle and Newcastle. Stagecoach buses also link Brampton with Alston.

Brampton is a bustling little market town of some character, centred on its octagonal Moot Hall. It is a splendid gateway to the North Pennines. There is immediate access to the ‘mad’ River Gelt, which rushes through a well-wooded gorge rich in interest and wildlife. The riverside walk links with quiet country roads, later passing the small village of Talkin to reach a popular little country park based around Talkin Tarn. The course of an old horse-drawn railway track, the Dandy Line, leads back to Brampton.

Brampton

A Roman fort lies close to the River Irthing and a small settlement grew up there in the seventh century. It was later cleared as people transferred to a new site, where Brampton is now situated. A Moot Hall has stood in the centre of the bustling market town since 1648, but the current octagonal structure dates from 1817. The area saw plenty of Borders strife, culminating in the arrival of Bonnie Prince Charlie on his white charger. He made Brampton his headquarters in 1745 during the siege of Carlisle. The mayor and aldermen of Carlisle travelled to Brampton to hand over the keys to the city.

Spend time wandering around Brampton, taking in St Martin’s Church, Prince Charlie’s House, the old stocks, the site of an old bullring, and plenty of fine buildings. Facilities include banks with ATMs, post office, accommodation, plenty of shops, pubs and restaurants. The tourist information centre is in the Moot Hall, tel 01697 73433, open Easter to October, except Sundays.

Follow Front Street away from the centre of Brampton, past St Martin’s Church, to continue along Carlisle Road. Turn left as signposted for Carlisle along a road called Elmfield. At the top of the road, turn left again through a gate to follow a field path, enjoying views of the northern Lake District and southern Scotland. Cross a road and turn right to follow Capon Tree Road. Big beeches grow beside a couple of houses, then a stone memorial marks the spot where the Capon Tree once grew.

Capon Tree Memorial

Following the retreat of Bonnie Prince Charlie, his local supporters were hung from the branches of the Capon Tree. The tree no longer exists, but is marked by a stone monument planted in 1904. Its name is derived from the capons eaten in its shade by assize judges travelling to Carlisle. They were in the habit of breaking their journey at the tree in order to accept bribes from litigants in advance of court proceedings!

Keep straight ahead to cross the busy A69 with great care. Pick up the continuation of the Capon Tree Road, following Bonnie Prince Charlie’s route towards Carlisle, at least as far as Low Geltbridge. Don’t cross the bridge, but peer over its parapet to see the River Gelt cutting through a dark, red sandstone gorge.
 

The ‘Mad’ River Gelt

The River Gelt’s name is derived from the Norse ‘geilt’, meaning ‘mad’, and is locally known as the ‘Mad River’, flowing fast, furious and frenzied at times. The red sandstone in this area was quarried by the Romans for use at Hadrian’s Wall. With expert guidance you could locate the ‘Written Rock of Gelt’, where Roman quarrymen carved their names. The varied woodlands support birds such as wood warblers, tree-creepers, pied flycatchers, woodpeckers, song thrushes and blackcaps. Roe deer and red squirrels can be spotted with patience. Mosses, liverworts, fungi and ferns thrive in damp and shaded locations.

Turn left through a car park to follow a well-wooded path upstream beside the River Gelt. Keep right at a path junction to remain close to the river and study its narrow rocky channel. Part of the path has been built in the river, then there are steps leading uphill.

Pass old quarry faces, where the path climbs above the river then descends to cross a bridge over Hell Beck. The little stream of Hell Beck is reputed to have flowed red with blood for three days after a battle in 1570. Climb from the river again, then head downhill and pass some small waterfalls. The path suddenly emerges from the woods to join a road, which is followed straight ahead beneath the towering arches of a railway viaduct.

Middle Gelt Viaduct

This was one of the earliest skew-arched viaducts in the country, completed in 1853. The masonry is reputed to have been modelled with carved chunks of turnip, so that the stonemasons and engineers could understand how the odd-shaped blocks would support the arch.

Follow the road up through a crossroads and continue to the little village of Talkin. The Blacksmiths Arms offers food, drink and accommodation. Turn left in the village to follow another road to the Tarn End Hotel (which may be closed). Turn right along a short path leading to the shore of Talkin Tarn, then consider two options.

Talkin Tarn Country Park

Legend tells how a village once occupied this site. An angel of God visited, but was ill-treated by all the inhabitants, except for one old widow. In retribution, the village was drowned in the tarn, except for the old widow. Some say that the tarn is bottomless, while others say that on stormy nights the church bells of the drowned village can be heard tolling beneath the water.

Popular Talkin Tarn Country Park is home to the Talkin Tarn Amateur Rowing Club, which was founded in 1859, making it one of the oldest clubs in the country. Regattas have been held here for even longer, since 1849. Facilities for visitors include a ranger service, education cabin, bird observatory, tea room, toilets, campsite, and a path running all the way round the shore.

To continue, either turn left along the shoreline path, passing the boating club, then turn left again as signposted for Brampton Junction, or turn right to walk round the quieter side of the tarn before turning right for Brampton Junction. The latter choice adds very little distance to the day’s walk. Leaving Talkin Tarn, woods give way to a field path, which in turn leads to the Brampton Fell Road. Turn right and follow the road to Brampton Station.

Cross the footbridge over the railway, go through a gate and turn left to follow a track parallel to the railway. The track gradually veers right, away from the railway, and was formerly a railway line itself. The Dandy Line, as it was known, was a horse-drawn line leading to Brampton. It passes woods and runs beneath the busy A69, then heads through fields until a missing bridge requires walkers to drop down steps to the right. Turn left along a road and generally keep left to follow roads back into the centre of Brampton.