Ben Nevis and Glen Coe - A Walking Guidebook

The area covered in this guidebook, from Ben Nevis southwards towards Glen Coe offers some of the finest mountain walking in the UK. This guide not only covers Lochaber's spectacular summits but also describes mid-level walks and gentle strolls, great through routes along empty glens, and tent or bothy treks - serious in terms of remoteness and scenery.

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53 Am Bodach and the End of the Aonach Eagach

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Start/finish    Altnafeadh NN 221563
Distance    14km/8.5 miles
Ascent    1050m/3400ft
Approx time    6hr
Max altitude    Am Bodach 943m
Terrain    Gentle ridgewalking, with a steep descent. Excursion to Meall Dearg is scrambling Grade 2, fairly exposed

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Glen Coe abounds in high, demanding ridgewalks amidst spectacular surroundings. By contrast, A’ Chailleach offers a ridgewalk over short, gentle vegetation and gravel, gently rising for 5km from the top of the Devil’s Staircase. The surroundings, however, remain superb.
After Am Bodach, Meall Dearg could be reached by a first taster of the Aonach Eagach’s scrambling.

Start up the broad, smooth path of Devil’s Staircase, usually companionable with WH Way walkers. It zigzags to a col. At the first of two cairns, turn left on a small rough path up gently onto Stob Mhic Mhartuin. Pleasant walking on smooth short grass and gravel, with occasional peat, leads to Sron a’ Choire Odhair-bhig.

Rocky drops on the right add character to the still pleasant ridgeline onto A’ Chailleach (903m, unnamed on most maps).

Grassy ridge continues to the col before Sron Gharbh. This summit could be bypassed left without difficulty. In the col beyond, a large cairn marks the possible descent path left to Allt Ruigh. For now take the well-used path, over stones or easy-angled bare rock, up to the main top of Am Bodach.

It is now possible to use Route 52 for an excursion to the Munro Meall Dearg. The descent from Am Bodach is exposed, but with big holds and at a lower level of terror – and because it’s downwards, retreat will always be less difficult than it was to get there. Allow 1.5–2hr for the excursion and return to Am Bodach. Meall Dearg can also be reached without any scrambling but over rough ground, by its north ridge from the West Highland Way above Kinlochleven.

There are two descent routes from Am Bodach to the valley floor at Allt-na-reigh.

• Allt Ruigh Easier but less exciting. Return to the col before Sron Gharbh (NN 171581). A cairn marks the top of a path down to the right.
  This path is eroded for the first steep descent, then joins Allt Ruigh stream down grassy slopes. Paths now are on both sides of stream. Keep near the stream as the valley narrows, closed on the right by a small steep crag. At 500m altitude, the path contours out to the right across a steep slope towards this crag, zigzags down scree, then again contours to the right, along the crag’s foot. Here it rises slightly, to join the spur path descending from the right.
  

• Spur path More rugged, this reverses Route 52. From Am Bodach summit, head south for 100 metres to a lower cairn. Now a clear path heads down the steep rocky spur, southeast. The path is well marked, weaving among outcrops and occasionally crossing bare rock. Below the lowest outcrop, at 500m altitude, bend right as the alternate path rejoins from the left.

The path on down is rebuilt with occasional stone steps, to the car park 200 metres west of Allt-na-reigh.

It is fairly easy for folk dressed for the hill to hitch-hike up the A82. However, it is also a reasonable walk of 5km back along the valley floor. Take a small path above the road to the cottage Allt-na-reigh, and cross below it on the road bridge. Take another small path on the left, to where the Old Glencoe Road (NN 180563) forks up left. Follow this track past the viewpoint called the Study, rejoining the A82 about 1km later. Cross diagonally onto a path for 250 metres, then re-cross onto a wet grassy track that remains near the A82 for 2km, to a car park. The Old Road track continues to left of the road for another 200 metres. Use the road verge for the last 400 metres to Altnafeadh.