Walking Tour of the Queyras - GR58 and GR541 in the French Alps

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STAGE 10
Souliers to Brunissard via the Lac de Souliers

Distance 13.0km (8.1 miles)
Total ascent 1158m (3798ft)
Total descent 611m (2004ft)
Estimated time 5 hours 30 minutes

The highlight of this stage is the detour to the Lac de Souliers. The lake is surrounded by spectacular rocky mountains, and is a superb setting for a long picnic lunch. Those with more energy will want to climb the nearby Pic Ouest. Although steep, it is not a difficult climb, although some care is required, as there is a long and steep drop to the west and north from the summit area, and a slip here would probably be fatal. The views from this summit of the mountains of the Écrins and the Vanoise are magnificent. The climb to Pic Ouest from the lakeside should not be attempted in bad weather.

An alternative is to climb to the summit of the Crête de Tronchet, a lower peak to the south of the lake. From this lofty, but easily and quickly attainable perch, there are grand views of Pic Ouest in the northwest and to the Pic de Rochebrune in the northeast. The excursion to the Lac de Souliers and the ascent of Pic Ouest and/or the Crête de Tronchet are off-route of the GR58, and so could be omitted by those intent only on the shortest route between the two villages. However, as the stage is quite a short one, there should be ample time to include them in the itinerary.

The village of Brunissard has expanded considerably since the late 1980s, but many of the new buildings are not in keeping with the traditional architectural style of the original dwellings. Sadly, there are now rather a lot of holiday homes in the village.

Facilities

Accommodation The Refuge de Furfande is the only possibility for overnight accommodation. Meals are provided during the summer season until (usually) the third week in September. Outside this period accommodation is available (free of charge – there is no guardian) in a small winter room that is part of the refuge.

Shops There are no shops until the Durance valley at the end of the Tour. If your food supplies are low, then ask the guardian of the gîte d’étape in Brunissard for a packed lunch.

Restaurants/Cafés/Bars None are available en route after leaving Brunissard. None are passed en route.

Route

Head north from the gîte d’étape at Souliers, soon passing a small chapel on the left (turn left here for the Lac de Roue and Château-Queyras). Keep straight on, heading north with a river to the left (Torrent de Souliers). The track is fairly level. Avoid crossing any of the numerous wooden footbridges over the river until a red and white sign indicates the footbridge to be taken.

Once over the river, the track begins to climb towards a wooden/stone chalet seen ahead, which is reached about 30 minutes after leaving Souliers. Pass to the right of this building (limited flat grassy area suitable for camping on the right here) and soon begin to zigzag up to the col to the west. A further 10 minutes brings you to a signpost at a Y-path junction.

Bear left here, following the sign to the Col du Tronchet (40 minutes) and Brunissard (2 hours 15 minutes) on the GR58. After passing through an area of patchy fir trees the Col du Tronchet is soon attained. It is neither a long nor a difficult climb. There are views from here down into the wide, fertile valley in which Brunissard is situated.

The path descends a little over to the right (northwest) and undulates across the hillside for a while. In about 500 metres a short, steep ascent is reached. About 150 metres after the top of this ascent, a rock is passed bearing the words ‘Col du Tronchet’, and an arrow pointing back to the southeast.

About 50 metres after this, bear to the right (northeast) to climb over undulating ground to pick up a minor path (if omitting the detour to the Lac de Souliers, remain on the main path, the GR58, to descend to Brunissard). Climb on a well-worn path to reach the Lac de Souliers, where there is a sign indicating a height of 2492m.

The Lac de Souliers is in a glorious position, with the jagged Crête des Oules to the northeast and Pic Ouest (perhaps not surprisingly!) to the west. The lake is a good spot to sunbathe and generally relax, but a paddle in the water is not recommended. It is usually icy-cold, whatever the weather, but more importantly the bed of the lake drops away very steeply.

The more energetic will wish to make an ascent of Pic Ouest (2844m/9328ft), the path for which can be seen leading up from the west end of the lake. Walk to the end of the lake and climb over a series of hillocks to locate the thin but obvious path. Gain height on this, heading towards the ridge ahead. Cross an area of scree and pass to the right of a large depression to gain the lowest point of the ridge. Turn left here and climb to the summit where there is a cairn and a glorious all-round view.

In particular the peaks and glaciers of the Écrins are well displayed, and there is another opportunity to see the now very familiar shape of Monte Viso. The glacier-covered mountain to the north is the Grande Casse (3861m/12,664ft) in the Vanoise. The valley leading to Briançon is also visible from here. The ridge can be followed from the cairn to its southern-most point by following a line of red paint stripes. At the south peak there is a French triangulation point and weather station. Return to the Lac de Souliers by the route of ascent.

Another option is to climb the Crête du Tronchet (2590m/8495ft) to the south, following the clear path from the lakeside to the highest point on the ridge. The peak is less than 100m above the lake. Allow 15 minutes for the ascent and 10 minutes to descend back to the lake (by the reverse of the outward route only).

Descend from the Lac de Souliers by the same route to rejoin the GR58 and resume the descent to Brunissard. Descend on the path through woodland to meet a road, the D902, at the Col de la Platrière. Here opens out a grand view of the huge area of barren scree, rock crags and pinnacles known as La Casse Déserte, that forms the massive western expanse of Pic Ouest. A table d’orientation is located on this road col – use it to locate the position of the Col de Furfande, tomorrow’s destination.

Cross the road to find another path heading down into woodland. Descend, noting the enormous scree slopes above, to a small stream. Do not cross this at first, but turn left and cross it some 150 metres further on. Notice the strangely eroded cliffs of gypsum to the left. Descend with a (usually) dry streambed on the left, later crossing this and descending with the stream bed on the right to reach a track.

The track passes through an area of holiday homes called La Draye (strange-looking buildings standing on tall, concrete pillars). The track descends to a road, the D902 again, where there is a footpath sign indicating the Col d’lzoard, a major road pass that allows access into the Queyras from the Briançon valley.

For Brunissard, turn right on the D902 for about 300 metres to pass the sign for Brunissard on the roadside. About 100 metres after this road sign, turn right for the gîte d’étape, signposted to Les Bons Enfants, located about 100 metres along this street on the right-hand side.